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Xlbe IBooh of XTbe ptlGnmaoe 



The Congregation ALIST'S Pilgrimage to England and Holland was first announced in the 
Souvenir Membership List of the Oriental Tonr organised by ns in the spring of 189^. These two important 
schemes of travel signalize the one the opetiing and the other the completion of the 80th year of the life of the 
paper. The Oriental Tonr brongbt together a large company of ladies and gentlemen of congenial tastes, and 
a very extended journey through Eastern lands was successfully accomplished without mishap. The Pilgrimage 
iialiirallv included a still larger membership, and proved to be of even greater interest. The National Council 
of Congregational Churches of the United States recognised its representative character by appointing a special 
committee to represent the Council in connection with the tour, and a distinguished cooperating committee was 
organized tn England. It may therefore be properly claimed that the enterprise was of international significance, 
and its success was due on the one band to the prompt response and widespread interest which the plan of The 
Pilgrimage awakened in the United Stales, and on the other, to the cordial and hospitable altitude of our English 
friends towards the visit of these New-lVorld Vilgrims to Old-lVorld Shrines. 

The P/1.GRI.VAGE Letters which appeared weekly in the columns of The Congregalionalist were 
written by Miss Frances J. Dyer, one of the editors of the paper, who was a member of the party. So admirably 
and so faithfully did these letters chronicle the experiences of the journey that they have been made the basis of 
The Book of The Pilgrimage. Much material has been added, but the original letter form has been retained in 
order that the personal and familiar touch of the first account may not be lost. 

The Illustrations in The Book of The Pilgrimage have been gathered from many .■sources. Rev. 
IVitliam IVbite Leete, one of the pilgrims, was very successful with his camera, and we are indebted to him 
for several unique views. Most of the pictures of Pilgrim localities, both in England and Holland, are from 
photographs specially taken for us by the well-known artist, Clifton Johnson. The frontispiece, title-page, and 
finis, and all the initial letters have been drawn by L. S. Ipsen. The significant initial designs will repay study, 
and are briefly described on page 10. We are glad to recognise here our indebtedness to many English firms, 
whose photographs we have reproduced in the following pages. 

IV. L. GREENE &■ COMPANY. 

O^ee 0/ THE CONGREGATIONALIST, 
CoHgrtgational HoMSf, Boston, Mass., U. S. A. 
1st Dtctinber, iSqb. 



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A • RECORD • OF ■ THE • CONGREGATIONALIST'S • PILGRIMAGE 
TO • ENGLAND ■ AND • HOLLAND • MDCCCXCVl • PUBLISHED • 
AT • THE • OFFICE • OF • THE • CONGREGATIONALIST • CON- 
GREGATIONAL • HOUSE ■ BOSTON • MASSACHUSETTS -U. • S. -A. 



THE LIBRARY 
or CONGRESS 

WASHINGTON 



The Conokecat,osal,st, W. L. Greene & Company. Propr.etors, Boston, MASSACH^Ens. U. S. A. 
Copyright bv W. L. Greene & Company, 1896 



Zo our 1bo8t8 in Enolanb 

especially to those wbosc names arc inscribed below, tbis JBooft of ttbe Ipilgrimacic, 
wbicb recorOs vcrg inaDequatelg tbeir gracious bospitalitg, is respectfullB 

The Most Rev. William Alexander, d.d., d.c.l., Lord Archbishop of Armagh, Prunate of All Ireland. 

The Right Hon. The Earl of Ancaster, p.c, Joint Hereditary Lord Great Chamberlain of England. 

Rev. Charles Isaac Atherton, m.a.. Treasurer and Canon Residentiary of Exeter Cathedral. 

Rev. DA'S'id Barnetf, Congregational Minister, Boston. 

Rev. George Slattyer Barrett, b.a., d.d., Norwich (Member of The Pilgrimage Reception Committee). 

Wilson Barrett, Esq., London. 

Rev. Charles Albert Berry, d.d., Wolverhampton, Chairman (1897) °f 'he Congregational LInion of Eng- 
land and Wales (Member of The Pilgrimage Reception Committee). 

General Sir Michael Anthony Shr.'Vpnel Biddulph, g.c.b., the Gentleman Usher of the Black Rod. 

Rev. W. Blackshaw, h.a., h.d., Congregational Minister, Boston. 

j. T. Bond, Esq., The Right Worshipful the Mayor of Plymouth. 

Mrs. Bond. 

Rev. George Hugh Bourne, d.c.l., Sub-Dean of Salisbury. 

Very Rev. George David Boyle, m.a., Dean of Salisbury. 

Very Rev. George Granville Bradley, d.d.. Dean of Westminster, Dean of The Most Honourable Order of 
the Bath, Chaplain-in-Ordinary to the Queen. 

Rev. John Brown, d.d., Bedford, Chairman of Congregational LInion Committee (Member of The Pilgrimage 
Reception Committee). 

Rev. Henry Montagu Butler, d.d., Master of Trinity College, Cambridge; Chaplain-in-Ordinary to the Queen. 

J. Clarke, Esq., The Right Worshipful the Mayor of Boston. 

Rev. Jacob Clements, m.a., Sub-Dean and Canon Residentiary of Lincoln. 

J. J. CoLMAN, Esq., j.p., Norwich. 

A. W. W. Dale, Esq., m.a., Tutor in Trinity Hall, Cambridge. 

The Right Rev. Randall Thomas Davidson, d.d.. Lord Bishop of Winchester, Prelate of the Order of the 

Mrs. Davidson. [Garter. 

Rev. C. E. Dickinson, Congregational Minister, Winchester. 

Arthur Rayner Dyer, Esq , the Right Worshipful the Mayor of Winchester. 

Rev. W.alter John Edmonds, b.d., Canon of Exeter Cathedral. 

Rev. W. Justin Evans, Congregational Minister, Exeter (now of Lewisham, London). 

Rev. Andrew M. Fairbairn, d.d., ll.d.. Principal of Mansfield College, Oxford. 

Very Rev. Frederic William Farrar, d.d.. Dean of Canterbury. 

Rev. P. T. Forsyth, d.d.. Congregational Minister, Cambridge. 

Rev. Hugh S. Griffiths, Pastor of John Robinson Memorial Church, Gainsborough. 

The Right Hon. William Court Gully, Speaker of the House of Commons. 

Rev. Newman Hall, d.d., ll.b., London. 

Edward Harrison, Esq., The Right Worshipful the Mayor of Lincoln. 

Rev. William Hardy Harwood, Minister of Union Chapel, Islington, London. 

Rev. Edward Hassan, Congregational Minister, Salisbury. 

Re\'. Walter P. Hogben, Congregational Minister, Glastonbury, 



Co cm 1I.">ost5 in niiuilanC* 

Rev. R. !■'. IlnKniN, m.a., n.ii. (Mcmlier of Tlic rilgrimagc Reception Commiltee"). 

Rev. John Daniel JoNt-s, m.a., b.d., Congregational Minister, Lincoln. 

The Right Rev. George Wvndham Kennion, u.d., the Lord Bishop of liath ami Wells. 

Rev. T. J. KuiHTi.EV, Congregational Minister, Wells. 

Very Rev. William Lei-kdv, d.d., Dean of Norwich. 

Rev. John Lewis, Congregational Minister, Norwich. 

Mrs. G. S. Lister, Finningley Park, Austerlield. 

Rev. Alexander Mackennal, B.A., d.d., Bowdon (Chairman of The Pilgrimage Reception Committee). 

Rev. J. TovvNSEND JLxxwell, Congregational Minister, Plymouth. 

Re\'. Andrew Mearns, Secretarj' of London Congregational Union (Memtier of The Pilgrimage Reception 

Committee). 
Rev. Frederick Brotherton Meyer, b.a., Minister of Christ Church, Westminster-liridge-road, London. 
E. Minshall, Esq., Editor of The Nonconformist Musical Journal, London. 

Rev. William Mottram, Traveling Secretary of Congregational Total Abstinence Association, London. 
D. MiNSEV, Es(j., Cambridge. 
Mrs. Munsey. 

Rev. Joseph Parker, d.d., Minister of The City Temple, London. 
Edward V. Pye-Smiih, Escj., j.p., Ex-Mayor of Salisbury. 

Rev. James Guinness Rogers, d.d., Clapham (Member of The Pilgrimage ReceptionCommittee). 
The Right Rev. John Sheepshanks, d.d.. Lord Bishop of Norwich. 

VENERAiii.K William Macdonald Sinclair, d.d., Ar:hdeacon of London, and Canon Residentiary of St. 
Noi.MAN IL Smith, Es(j., m.a.. Secretary, Mansfield College, O.\ford. [Paul's Cathedral. 

The Lady Henry Somerset, Reigate Priory, Surrey. 
Very Rev. W. R. Wood Stephens, b.d., Dean of Winchester. 
Rev. John Stephenson, m.a., Vicar of Boston. 

Rev. William Erne.st Stephenson, Congregational Minister, Canterbury. 
IIai.lev Stewart, Es(j., j.p., The Firs, Clapham Park, London. 
Mrs. Stewart. 

Very Rev. Charles W. Stubbs, m.a., d.d.. Dean of Ely. 
Rev. John Thomson, Minister of Howard Congregational Church, Bedford. 
Rev. L. J. White-Thomson, m.a.. Rector of St. Martin's Church, Canterbury. 
Rev. William James Woods, b.a.. Secretary of Congregational Union of England and Wales (Member of The 

Pilgrimage Reception Committee). 








ityHi^»t>it^tf$it5fK*^i»KJ(^itlitHii». 



Contents of ^be 38ook of ^be ipiloinniaoe 

PAGE 

Day by Day Itinerary 1 1 

Committees ^4 

Our Pilgrimage — FAiiiorials from The CongrcgatioiaUst 17 

Our Pilgrims — Editorials from Tlic Congrega/ionalist ... 20 

"Boii NowGK — Dr. DeJVitf S. C/ark 23 

Pilgrims — a poem — Mrs. Harriet Prcscott Spofford 26 

On the Ocean — Dr. A. E. Dunning 27 

Pilgrims in Plymouth — Miss F. J. Dyer 3' 

Pilgrims in Exeter — Miss F.J. Dyer 37 

Pilgrims in Weli^ and Glastonhury — Miss F.J. Dyer 41 

Pilgrims in Salisbury and Bemerton — Miss F.J. Dyer 49 

Pilgrims in Winchester and Farnham — Miss F.J. Dyer 54 

Pilgrims in Oxford and Cambridge — Miss F.J. Dyer 64 

Pilgrims in Bedford — Miss F. J. Dyer 72 

Pilgrims in London and Reigate — Miss F.J. Dyer 78 



tloutcuts ot tlbc 36001; ot Ubc iPilovlmaoc 

PAGE 

Pilgrims in Canterbury — Miss F.J. Dyer 89 

Pilgrims in* Boston — Miss F.J. Dyer 95 

Pilgrims in Lincoln — Miss F.J. Dyer 98 

Pilgrims in Pilgrim Land — Miss F. J. Dyer 102 

ScROOBY, Bawtry, Austerfield, Gainsborough. 

Pilgrims in Kly — Miss F.J. Dyer 117 

Pilgrims in Norwich — Miss F.J. Dyer 121 

Pilgrims in Holund — Miss F. J. Dyer 129 

Looking Backward — Miss Dyer and other Meinhers of tlie Parly 139 

A Word about the Closing DA^■s — Dr. .-4. F. Dii lining; 146 

Pilgrimage Perspecityes — Re; . Shcriod Soiile and Mr. Albert Daivson 148 










\Vnn THE Initial Letikr of each Chaiter Mr. Ipsen, the artist, has incorporated a characteristic 
sketch. .\ word of explanation regarding some of them will not he out of place : The initial design for the 
Plymouth chapter shows the ofRcial Seal; F^xeter, one of the Transeptal Towers of the Cathedral; Wells, 
inverted tower arch in the Cathedral; Salisbury, gateway of the Cathedral Close; Winchester, stairway of the 
Keep at Farnham Castle; Oxford and Cambridge, Seals of Mansfield and Immanuel Colleges; Bedford, Bunyan's 
Chair; London, Houses of Parliament; Canterbury, Norman stairway in the Cathedral Close; Boston, cells in the 
Basement of the Old Town Hall; Lincoln, "The Imp" in the Angel Choir of the Cathedral; Pilgrim Land, 
interior of Austerfield Church; Ely, the Cathedral Coat of Arms; Norwich, Pulls Ferry at the bottom of the 
Cathedral Close. 




2)ai5 b^ 2)a\) Itinerary 

ENGLAND. 

June n (Thursday). S A.M. Arrive at Plymouth, p.m. Government Dockyards. The Hoe, etc. 

June 12 (Friday). A.jr. Inspection of the historic sights of Plymouth under the guidance of the borough 
liljrarian. 7.30 P.M. Reception by the Mayor in the Guildhall. 

June 13 (Saturday). Excursion by Steamer (chartered by the Evangelical Free Church Council) to Mount 
Edgcumbe, by permission of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe, P.C. 4 p.m. Depart. 5.54 p.m. Arrive at Exeter. 
6 P.M. The Cathedral, under guidance of Rev. Canon Edmonds. 9 p.m. Welcome in the Congregational Church. 

June 14 (Sunday). In Exeter. 

June 15 (Monday). 7.45 A.M. Depart. 11. 13 a.m. Arrive at Wells. After luncheon, drive to Glaston- 
bury. Tea at the Congregational Hall. Return to Wells to sleep. 

June 16 (Tuesday). 7.30 a.m. Depart. 10.04 a.m. Arrive at Salisbury. Welcome and Breakfast in the 
Congregational Hall. 12. The Cathedral, under the guidance of the Sub-Dean (Rev. Dr. Bourne). 2.30 p.m. 
Bemerton and Saruni. 4.15 p.m. Depart. 5.43 p.m. Arrive at Winchester. The Cathedral, g p.m. Welcome 
in the British Hall. 

June 17 (Wednesday). 9.32 a.m. Depart. 10.40 a.m. Arrive at Farnham. i p.m. Luncheon in 
Farnham Castle, by invitation of the Lord Bishop of Winchester. 2.26 p.m. Depart. 3.42 p.m. Arrive at 
Winchester. Holy Cross Hospital and Winchester School. 5.45 p.m. Depart. 8.28 P.M. Arrive at Oxford. 

June 18 (Thursday). Round of the Colleges. 1.30 P.M. Luncheon at Mansfield College; Address by 
Principal Fairbairn. 

June 19 (Friday). 7.50 a.m. Depart. 9.33 a.m. Arrive at Bedford. Breakfast at Elstovv; Address in 
the Moot Hall by Dr. John Brown. The Church, Bunyan's Cottage, etc. Luncheon at Bunyan Meeting, Bedford. 
Tea at Howard Memorial Church. 5.41 p.m. Depart. 7.50 p.m. Arrive at London. Hotel Cecil. 

June 20 (Saturday). .-\.m. Drive about London. 4 p.m. Garden Party at "The Firs," Clarence Road, 
Clapham Park, by invitation of Halley Stewart, Esq., J. P., in connection with the 250th anniversary of Clapham 
Congregational Church (Dr. Guinness Rogers). 

June 21 (Sunday). In London. 

June 22 (Monday). 9 A.M. Excursion to Canterbury. Greeting in Congregational Church. St. Martin's. 
1.30 P.M. At the Deanery. Address by Dean Farrar. The Cathedral, under guidance of Dean Farrar and Canon 
Scott-Robinson. 3 p.m. Service in Cathedral. Return to London. 8 P.M. " The Sign of the Cross." 

June 23 (Tuesday). 2.30 p.m. St. Paul's Cathedral, under guidance of the Archdeacon of London 
(Ven. Dr. Sinclair). 4 P.M. Short Choral Service. Tea in the Chapter Llouse, by invitation of the Archdeacon. 
5 P.M. Reception at Memorial Hall. 

June 24 (Wednesday), a.m. Breakfast at The Priory, Reigate, as guests of Lady Henry Somerset. 
By Thames Steamboat to Tower, etc. 2.45 p.m. Assemble in Choir of the Abbey for .Service at 3 p.m. After 
service, Address in the Jerusalem Chamber by the Dean (Very Rev. Dr. Bradley). 6 p.m. Tea at Christ Church, 
Westminster Bridge Road, by invitation of Rev. F. B. Meyer, B.A., and Dr. Newman Hall. 

June 25 (Thursday). 2.30 p.m. Depart. 3.54 p.ini. Arrive at Cambridge. 5 p.m. Garden Party at 
Edenfield, by invitation of Mr. and Mrs. Munsey. 

June 26 (Friday). 9.30 a.m. Meet at Dr. Forsyth's Church. Mr. A. W. AV. Dale and other friends 
conduct round the Colleges, etc. 

June 27 (Saturday). 10.06 a.m. Depart. 11.58 a.m. Arrive at Boston. Luncheon at the Peacock, the 
Mayor presiding. St. Botolph's Church. 3.30 p.m. Depart. 4.42 p.m. Arrive at Lincoln. 8 p.Ji. Welcome in 
County Assembly Room. 

June 28 (Sunday). In Lincoln. 



IDav? bs 2>av HUncrarv? 

June 29 (Monday). 7.30 a.m. Depart. S.20 .\.M. .\rrivc at .Scrooby. iJrivc t<i l!a\vtry, .XustcrlieUl, 
Gainsborough. 1.30 p.m. Luncheon in Gainsborough Old Hall (formerly the Residence of the Lords of the 
Manor, and in which the Separatist Church of 1602 was probably organized), by permission of the Lord of the 
Manor (Sir Hickman 13. Bacon, Bart.). 3 r.M. .Stone-laying of John Robinson Memorial Church by Hon. T. F. 
Bayard. Ch.iirman, Rev. J. Morlais Jones. .Speakers, Dr. Mackennal and Rev. Morton Dexter. 5 I'.M. Tea in 
I'ublic Hall. 8 r.M. Mass Meeting in Wesley Chapel. Chairman, .Mbert Spicer, Esq., M.l'. Speakers, Dr. 
Rogers, Dr. C. A. Berry, Dr. Park, and Dr. Richardson. 

June 30 (Tuesday), a.m. Lincoln Cathedral, under guidance of the Sub-Dean. 2.33 r.M. Depart. 
4.1S I'.M. .\rrive at Ely. 5 I'.M. Tea at the Deanery, liy invitation of the De.in (Very Rev. Dr. Stubbs). 
9.10 I'.M. Moonlight Organ and Violin Recital in the Cathedral, arranged by the Dean. 

July I (^ Wednesday). S.47 a.m. Depart. 10.33 a.m. Arrive at Norwich. 11 a.m. Service in the 
Cathedral (Sooth Anniversary). Preacher, the Lord Archbishop of Armagh, i I'.M. Luncheon, by invitation of 
the Dean (Very Rev. Dr. Lefroy). 4.30 P.M. Garden Party at Carrow Mouse, by invitation of J. J. Colman, Esq. 
S I'.M. l'ul)lic Meeting in Old Meeting House. 

July 2 (Thursday). Norwich. The Castle, Guildhall, Dr. Barrett's Church, Curat House, etc. 6.03 I'.M. 
Depart. 8.37 i-.M. Arrive at Harwich; embark for Holland. 

HOLLAND AND THE CONTINENT. 

July 3 ^Friday). S a.m. .\rrive at Rotterdam. Carri.iges to Delfsliavuii, where the Pilgrinis embarked for 
Plymouth. Return to Rotterdam for luncheon. \'isit the house of Erasmus, Boyman's Museum, and other places 
of interest. Afternoon train to The Hague. Evening, a concert at Scheveningen. 

July 4 (Saturday). .\t The Hague. Visit the picture gallery, the Gevangenpoort, and other points. Cele- 
bration of Independence Day at Hotel I'aulez, with addresses by memliers of the party. Evening train to Leiden. 

Julys (Sunday). 2 p.m. Service in the house standing on the spot where John Robinson once lived, 
sermon l)y Dr. .'Vlexander Mackennal. \'isit the University buildings and gardens. 6 p.m. Christian Endeavor 
service at the Hotel. 

July 6 (Monday). Morning train to Haarlem. Special organ recital at the Groote Kerk. \'isil the Mu- 
seum and other places of interest, i p.m. Train to .Vmsterdam, I lotel Victoria. 

July 7 (^Tuesday). Morning carriage drive to the royal palace, the principal Jewish synagogue and about 
the city. .Aflcrnuon, by steamboat through the canals, visit the Ryks Museum and Zoological Gardens. 

July 8 (Wednesday). By chartered steamer to Broek, visiting some of the model Dutch farmhouses. 
Luncheon at Monnikendam. Pass through Edam tu the Island of .Marken in the Zuyder Zee. Return to 
Amsterdam in the evening. 

July 9 (Thursday). Visit the street of the Brownists and the house once occupied by the Pilgrims, the 
remainder of tlie day spent according to individual preferences. 

July 10 (Friday). Excursion by chartered steamer to .Alkmaar, visiting the cheese market, the Church of 
St. I .awrence, etc. Return by way of Zaandam, visiting the house once occupied by Peter the Great. 

July II (Saturday). 9.10 a.m. Depart for Cologne. Arrive 3 P..M. Visit the Cathedral and Church of 
St. Crsula. 

July 12 (Sunday), a.m. .Attend the cathedral services, p.m. Christian Endeavor service in the parlors of 
the Ib.tel N'ictoria. 

July 13 (Monday). The entire day spent on the Rhine, from Cologne to Mayence. 

July 14 (Tuesday). 9 a.m. Depart from Mayence. Arrive in Heidelberg about :i a.m. Drive through 
the town and to the ca.stle. 3 I'.M. By train to Baden-Baden. Evening, concert at the Kursaal. 

July 15 (Wednesday). By morning train through the Black Eorest. 7 P.M. .'\irive at Ziirich. 

July 16 (Thursday) . In Zurich. Visit the Cathedral, the collection of antiquities, and other places of inter- 
est. By afternoon train to .\rlh, whence the .iscent of the Rigi is made. I'inal g.athering of the party, with ad- 
dresses, in the Red Parlor of the Rigi Kulm Hotel. 

July 17 (Friday). Descend by rail to Vitznau, whence the boat is taken across the Lake of the Four Can- 
tons to Lucerne. Here the parly separate, twenty-one members taking a tour through Switzerland, others going 
direct to Paris, still others leaving for various parts of Europe. 




REV. ALEXANDER MACKENNAL, D.D., 
Chairman of the Co-operating Committee, in charge of the arrangements for the reception of the Party in England. 




Z\K Hnicrican Committee 

avHiointc^ bv tbc IRational Council of Coiuirciiational Cburcbcs i^SHracusc, 1S95) to 
rcrrc^cnt the Council in connection witb tbc arrangements for ttbe IPUgriniagc 



llnii. i:. W. lii.AiciiroKU, Chicago, 111. 
Rev. Neiikmiah BoyntoN, D.D., Boston, Mass. 
Rev. A. II. Bradkoki), D.I)., Montclair, N. J. 
lion. Lv.MAN Bkevvstek, Danbury, Ct. 
Hon. S. B. Cai'KN, Boston, Mass. 



Rev. C. R. I'ALMKR, D.l)., Bridgeport, Ct., Chairman. 



Rev. Morton Dexter, Boston, Mass. 

Rev. \. E. DirNNlNG, D.D., Boston, Mass. 

Rev. ( ;. E. Hall, d.d., Dover, N. H. 

Kev. W. .V. KoniNSON, D.D., Middletown, N. Y. 

Pres. ('. F. Thwing, d.d., Cleveland, O. 



^Ibe lEnolisb (Io=opcratiiuj Committee 

lln ebartie of tbe arrancienienty for tbc reception of the part\: m ^£nl^lan^ 

Rev. Alkxanukk Mackenxal, m.d., Bowdon, Chairman. 
Rev. G. S. Hakkeit, d.d., Xornich. Rev. Andrew Me.vrns, Secretary of the 

Rev. C. A. Bekkv, d.d., Wolverhampton. London Congregational Union. 

Rev. John Bruwn, d.d., Bedford. Rev. J. G. Rocers, d.d., Clapham, London. 

Aldert Dawson, Esi]., London, Secrelary. x<i:s. William J. Woods, ila.. Secretary of the 

Rev. R. F. HORTON, u.n., Hampstead, London. Congregational Union of England and Wales. 





Rev. C. A. Berry, D.D. Rev. R. F. Horton, D.D. Albert Dawson, Esq. 

THE ENGLISH CO-OPERATING COMMITTEE. 




W.r.WHlTTtMORt 

--Publisher- 



London tditor— ■ 



Member! of the Staff of THE CONGREGATIONALIST specially concerned in Itie Management 
of The Pilgrimage. 



®ur ipilorimaoc 




iHE first public announcement, with full details, of the purpose 
of The Congregatioiialist to undertake the historic tour de- 
scribed in the following pages appeared in an editorial with 
the above title under date of October 24, 1895. It said : — 

77^1? Congregationalisf s tour to the Orient, beginning 
early in the present year, much exceeded the anticipations of 
its projectors. It gave to the members of the party greater 
advantages, both of education and recreation, than they ex- 
pected, and it interested many thousands of our readers in 
historical matters of great importance to their spiritual life. 
Encouraged by this success, the proprietors of The Con- 
gregatioiialist have been for some time preparing for next 
summer a pilgrimage to scenes of historic interest in Eng- 
land and Holland. The plan of this journey, which was 
briefly announced in connection with the Oriental Tour, has been for some years 
in mind with a view to creating greater interest in Congregational history and 
strengthening ties of fellowship between Congregationalists in America and in 
the mother country. The suggestion of it last summer in England brought at 
once the most cordial response from leaders of our denomination there, who ex- 
pressed their willingness to act in cooperation with brethren on this side of the 
Atlantic. Nor was it confined to Congregationalists. The Dean of Canterbury, 
Dr. Earrar, has extended a hearty invitation to the American pilgrims to visit 
that cathedral and city, rich in historic associations. Other like invitations, we 
are assured, will be given as soon as our plans are definitely announced. The 
National Council has appointed several representative clergymen and laymen to 
visit Gainsborough in connection with the party, in the expectation that that 
church, closely associated with the beginnings of Congregationalism, will by that 
time have its building ready for dedication. It is also expected that the repre- 
sentatives of the council will participate in the celebration of the 250th anniversary 
of the Clapham Church (Dr. J. Guinness Rogers) in London. 

The Congregatioiialist has made arrangements for the party to sail from New 
York, June 4, in one of the express steamers of the Hamburg-American Line, and 
has prepared an itinerary of places to be visited. It is expected that the tour will 
occupy two months. The number will be limited to the accommodations engaged. 
This pilgrimage is not to be an excursion merely for sight-seeing, but the party is 
intended to include a company of representative Congregationalists, men and 
women, interested in the history of Congregationalism and of the movements which 



Ube Book of tbe pilgrimage 

led to the settlement of New England. For this reason we have engaged accommo- 
dations on express steamers so as to economize time as well as promote comfort, and 
the arrangements for the entire journey will be on a broad and liberal scale. It is 
probable that a similar company will be organized in England to unite with the 
American party, and it is certain that every facility will be afforded for acquaintance 
with scenes of greatest historic interest to be visited, and with persons prominent in 
our denomination and in other churches in England and Holland. The season has 
been chosen when the countries to be visited are most attractive and when the 
pleasures of travel are greatest. While the regular trip includes a journey up the 
Rhine, a brief sojourn in Switzerland and France, arrangements are being made by 
which members of the party may extend their travel if they wish. We believe we 
have provided for as interesting and profitable a journey as is possible for those to 
whom such a pilgrimage appeals. 

On the date of sailing, June 4, there were two more editorials, one of which said 
in part : — 

We are aware that the special company which is setting sail this week on the 
Columbia for England and Holland is only one of many groups of travelers who will 
this summer cross the Atlantic and wander hither and thither in the Old World. 
But a distinctiveness is given to this Congregationalist Pilgrimage in the special 
object it has in view, in the composition of the 'party, and in the degree of interest 
which the undertaking has aroused in this country and abroad. 

Believing that kindred tastes and sympathies are the only conditions that make 
travel with others endurable and profitable, and believing, too, that journeys to cer- 
tain historic shrines can be made most advantageously in a party carefully made up 
and wisely directed, we have provided such an opportunity. The response as re- 
spects the English Pilgrimage has been no less gratifying than that accorded the 
Oriental Tour. Indeed, the party which sails this week is larger by ten than the 
company who went to the Holy Land. 

The principle of associated travel is being widely recognized. Boston will soon 
send across the Atlantic representatives of one of its oldest military organizations to 
gain by their journey and by contact with its London prototype a larger impetus 
toward patriotism. Every summer sees many larger or smaller companies of per- 
sons whose common interest in scholarly or scientific pursuits forms a delightful 
bond of union as they move about in the Old World together. It has seemed to us 
but a further extension of this idea to organize a party of our Congregational people 
whose unifying tie should be a genuine regard for the historic side of their faith. 
We have not been disappointed in our expectation, for the size of the Pilgrimage 
but faintly measures the attention which the project has secured, and could all go 
who have expressed a desire to be numbered among the pilgrims it would take more 
than one ship of the size of the Columbia to carry them. 

We feel confident that the individual members of the party will have occasion 



(S»ur pilgrimage 

many times to realize wliat special advantages association with it secures. Doors 
will be opened which do not usually swing inwards to the touch of the tourist; op- 
portunities to become acquainted with the leaders in our own denomination and with 
prominent ecclesiastics of the Church of England will be frequent and rewarding, 
while the exchange of friendly greetings and the giving and receiving of courtesies 
must surely promote a better understanding between hosts and guests and thus 
cement the ties between England and America. We have not overstated the warmth 
of anticipation with which our English brethren look forward to the coming of this 
American delegation, and we are glad to be able to gather such a representative 
group of our own people and put them in close touch, not merely with the soil and 
buildings that are sacred in our eyes, but with the men and the forces that are help- 
ing to upbuild and regenerate modern England. As we signalized the beginning of 
our eightieth year of existence as a paper by conducting a party to the Holy Land, 
so we are fittingly concluding our eightieth birthday celebration by sending forth 
these pilgrims to England and Holland. 

Through letters from the different members of our staff included in the party 
we shall hear, from week to week, with reference to its doings and its varied delights. 
Meanwhile we voice the kind feeling and large hopes of all of our readers when we 
wish the outgoing pilgrims a safe and smooth passage, good fellowship among them- 
selves, invigoration of body and spirit, and on sea and land an ever deepening sense 
of God's protection and of the beauty and richness of the world which he has created 
and adorned for his children's use and enjoyment. 




®ur pilorims 

NOTHER editorial in The Congregatioiialist of June 4 dwelt more 

irticularly on certain personal facts and characteristics, and thus 

served as a letter of introduction to such of the pilgrims as 

had no acquaintance with each other before leaving America. 

It said : — 

A national character is given to the party by the fact 
that ten States are represented in its membership. Naturally 
New England furnishes the largest proportion, there being 
several representatives from each of the four States of New 
Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut, 
the old Bay State being in the van, as would be expected, 
since the party was organized in Boston. New York State 
furnishes half a dozen pilgrims ; others are from Pennsyl- 
vania, Illinois, Iowa, Arkansas, and California. 
There is also a good variety in the vocations of the different pilgrims. Such a 
trip as has been planned appeals, of course, particularly to ministers and students, 
but professional and business men generally have also shown a desire to participate 
in it. The dozen or more ministers are nearly all pastors in active service, and it is 
noticeable that many of them have rendered exceptionally long service in their 
present fields. Their prospective rest and enjoyment will be all the more keenly 
relished because of the consciousness of having rendered to their people faithful and 
unwearying service for so many years. They in turn, in one or two cases at least, 
have facilitated the proposed trip by such substantial assistance as pastors well 
established in the affections of their flocks from time to time receive. 

The clergymen of the party will not have it all their own way, by any means, 
for three business men, a lawyer, a general, a physician, and a school teacher will 
introduce a considerable flavor of other callings. 

Without attempting to particularize as respects \.\\e personnel ol the party, there 
will be general interest in a word or two with reference to certain of its members. 
Rev. W. E. Park, d.d., bears a name honored on both sides of the sea. He is a son 
of the eminent theologian still living quietly at Andover, and possesses many of 
those strong and gracious qualities which are associated with his father. He has 
been pastor at Gloversville, N. Y., for the last twenty years, and in the State and 
national assemblies of our order, as well as in many lines of public life, he has taken 
a prominent and useful part. Another New York pastor. Rev. W. A. Robinson, 
D.D., of Middletown, is a direct descendant of that pioneer Congregationalist, John 
Robinson, and in his turn has found a large place of service and made an individual 



®ur iPilgrims 

reputation. When a pastor in Vermont he was for three years on the State Board 
of Education, and he was a member of the Constitutional Convention of 1870. He 
was president of the Home Missionary Board of New York State in 1884, and his 
twenty years' pastorate at Homer was as fruitful as it was exceptional. 

Probably the oldest member of the delegation is Rev. Edward Robie, of Green- 
land, N. H., still in the harness there, though it is forty-four years since he was 
installed. His tastes are scholarly, and a country parish has permitted him to culti- 
vate tl^em to such good purpose that Dartmouth College some time ago bestowed 
the honor of a Doctorate of Divinity upon him, which, however, he was so modest 
as to refuse, though subsequently persuaded to accept the honor. 

Another New Hampshire minister is Rev. Cyrus Richardson, d.d., of Nashua, 
an excellent preacher and pastor, one of the pillars of Granite State Congregational- 
ism and a trustee of Dartmouth College. Rev. W. W. Leete, though of Eastern 
origin and training, is one of the most popular and successful ministers in Illinois. 
Rev. L. L. Wirt has been for several years the efficient superintendent of the 
Sunday-school interests of our denomination in California. Rev, Messrs. F. D. 
Sargent, R. P. Hibbard, E. K. Holden, and Sherrod Soule have charge of important 
churches. 

Hon. Jonathan A. Lane is a typical Boston merchant, representing in his birth, 
tastes, training, and influence all that is best, and standing high in the commercial 
circles of the city, and of the nation as well. For many years he was president of 
the Boston Merchants Association. He has been active in politics and has exhibited 
an uncommon amount of public spirit in many directions. He is one of the leading 
members of Union Church. 

Gen. Elbert Wheeler, a graduate of West Point, has been inspector-general 
upon the staff of three New Hampshire governors, one of whom once said : " If 
all military men who belong to the Church were like General Wheeler, the Church 
would shine in the world." Dr. A. S. Wallace is the leading physician of Nashua 
and a patriotic and high-minded gentleman. Mr. C. H. Noyes, also from Nashua, is 
a teacher in its high school. Mr. N. W. Littlefield is a prominent lawyer of Provi- 
dence, R. I. 

The ladies of the party are no less deserving of particular mention, but we will 
now allude only to Miss A. F. Burnham, of Cambridge, who is the editor of the 
juvenile grade of lessons and Sunday-school papers issued by the Congregational 
Sunday-School and Publishing Society, and of which many hundreds of thousands 
are sold, and to Miss Dyer, the editor of the Home Department of The Congrega- 
tionalist. Many of the gentlemen are accompanied by their wives, and the party 
includes a group of women prominent in Hartford social and religious circles. 

Most, if not all, of the pilgrims have pronounced Puritan and Congregational 
sympathies, and without undervaluing the general pleasure inhering in such a trip as 
this, they look upon it as a means of education such as is not often available. They 
will doubtless find much pleasure in one another's society. They are certainly a 



Ube JSooft of tbe ipilgdmage 

delegation which will fitly represent American Congregationalism, and they will 
bring back from the shrines which they visit in England a larger understanding of 
historic Congregationalism, of its heroes of other years and its present-day 
exponents. 

Mrs. Harriet Prescott Spofford, a gifted contributor to The Congregationalist , 
sent us "athwart the foaming brine" to the music of her verse in the poem printed 
on page 26, and Rev. De Witt S. Clark, of Salem, Mass., a member of the Oriental 
party, gave us his farewell in a little classic, entitled " Bon Voyage," which is 
worthy a prominent place in the chronicles of The Book of the Pilgrimage. 



Members of ilbc iPilgrimage 



Miss Lucy A. Brainard, Hartford, Ct. 

Miss Fanny F. Brown, Hartford, Ct. 

Miss Anna F. Burnham, Cambridge, Mass. 

Miss Ellen M. Case, Hartford, Ct. 

Rev. Morton Dexter, Boston, Mass. 

Rev. a. E. Dunning, d.d., Boston, Mass. 

Mrs. a. E. Dunning, Boston, Mass. 

Miss Emily B. Dunning, Boston, Mass. 

Miss Frances J. Dyer, Boston, Mass. 

Miss Carrie M. Galpin, New Haven, Ct. 

Mrs. Arthur L. Goodrich, Hartford, Ct. 

Rev. Rufus P. Hibbard, Gloucester, Mass. 

Rev. Edwin K. Holden, Bridgeport, Ct. 

Mrs. Carrie A. Hyde, Hartford, Ct. 

Hon. Jonathan A. Lane, Boston, Mass. 

Rev. William White Leete, Rockford, 111. 

Mr. Charles Liffler, Jr., Boston, Mass. 

Mrs. Charles Liffler, Jr., Boston, Mass. 

Mr. Nathan W. Littlefiei.d, Providence, R. I. 

Mrs. Nathan W. Littlefield, Providence, R. I. 

Miss Mary J. McAdoo, North Bloomfield, O. 

Mr. Charles H. Noyes, Nashua, N. H. 

Rev. William. E. Park, d.d., Gloversville, N. Y. 



Miss Mary E. Pierce, Whitman, Mass. 

Miss E. M. Pomeroy, Reading, Pa. 

Mrs. Charles N. Prouty, Spencer, Mass. 

Miss Marion R. Prouty, Spencer, Mass. 

Miss Emily Peirce Rand, Taunton, Mass. 

Rev. Cyrus Richardson, d.d., Nashua, N. H. 

Rev. Edward Robie, d.d., Greenland, N. H. 

Miss L. E. Robie, Greenland, N. H. 

Rev. William A. Robinson, d.d., Middletown, N.Y. 

Mrs. William A. Robinson, Middletown, N. Y. 

Miss Harriet Rowell, Hartford, Ct. 

Rev. Frank D. Sargent, Putnam, Ct. 

J. Stephen Scott, d.d.s., Boston, Mass. 

Mrs. Minnie Scoit, Lamar, Ark. 

Miss L. E. Sey.mour, Bristol, Ct. 

Rev. Sherrod Soule, Naugatuck, Ct. 

Mr. O. C. Starrett, Sheldon, la. 

Mrs. R. M. Storrs, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

A. S. Wallace, m.d., Nashua, N. H. 

Mrs. John S. West, Tiverton, R. L 

Gen. Elbert Wheeler, Nashua, N. H. 

Mr. William F. Whittemore, Boston, Mass. 

Rev. Loyal L. Wirt, San Francisco, Cal. 
Rev. Alexander Mackennal, d.d., Bowdon, Eng. 
Miss Effie Mackennal, Bowdon, Eng. 
Rev. E. J. Dukes, Bridgewater, Eng. 
Mr. George Hardy, London, Eng. 
Mr. W. R. Wright, London, Eng. 



Bon Dosage 




ERHAPS we ought to say " Bon Pilgrimage ! " since the voyage 
is but a small part of the anticipated experience of The 
Cougregationalist'' s Y>^vly setting out for "Old World Shrines." 
Yet the voyage comes first, as you are likely to discover. 
Fortunate are you that it is to be made on that splendid ship 
so worthy by name and appointment to convey back to the 
mother country the sons and daughters of them who so long 
ago — as we Americans count the years — came over the sea 
for God and freedom of conscience' sake, to plant Congre- 
gationalism on these virgin shores. 

"Time brings in his revenges." Now there is welcome 
at cathedral, university, and Guildhall doors to the schismatics, 
■ -. 113' whom once the king and ecclesiastic would " harry out of the 
land." Would that we all might go and receive the meed of 
justice, so long delayed, from British lips and hands ! Would we all were among the 
elect who again, as at the first, have been " sifted out of a continent " by The 
Congrcgationalist patent mesh for this joy and honor! Alas! as in politics, the 
choice does not fall on us ! It is the other man who is called and we are invited to 
offer him our congratulations. 

This we do heartily, universally : " All the saints salute you." We are told there 
are in your company all sorts and conditions of Congregationalists — lawyers, 
teachers, merchants, physicians, ministers, and some women, possibly of the " new " 
variety, of course no old. We tremble at the thought of these " falling out by the 
way," and so repeat the Josephic admonition. 

Your leader is no novice in the pilgrimage business. He has conducted already 
a considerable band into the very presence of Rameses the Great and to the Holy- 
City itself. He knows what labors, dangers, and sufferings are involved in the task. 
He can curb the rash, cheer the faint, bear with the grumbler, and command when 
he must. 

His " sesame " has the magic charm to open many places closed to the curious 
traveler, and lords and bishops and lackeys do him homage, for his is a prevailing 
name. His is the habit of getting things, Dun. He can speak, discreetly as Solo- 
mon, on any topic, from Dutch currency to higher criticism, or the best specifics 
against heresy or seasickness.. By the way, we advise you to leave "brush rem- 
edies " to the cats, and take your tossing and qualms in that heroic Christian spirit 
they did on the Mayflower. The " Gem of the Ocean " will do as little in the way of 
upsetting you as any craft, even if you do not have a gimbal-hung stateroom. You 



TLbc 'Boo]^ ot tbe piUirimaoe 

need not hesitate at every chance to lay in one of the Columbia's square meals. 
Show to the cynical worldlings how "powerful them pious eats." 

Then to the daily promenade, the stirring strains of the orchestra, the dozing in 
the hired chair, the "light reading," the plowing through fog banks to the cheerful 
toot of the whistle, the excitement of a passing "liner," the noisy laugh over 
antique stories, and the first sighting of Albion's chalky cliffs — how we all would 
like to share in these ! 

So you are really going — by way of the Establishment premises — to see 
where noble and simple ideals first germinated in true souls ! Scrooby and Auster- 
field are to unfold their secrets to you. No grandeur of Exeter and Wells and 
Salisbury is to persuade you that it is better to "enrich " your " service " after the 
church pattern. As psalm singers and lovers of unrobed ministers and white 
window glass and hard pews, you, Puritans and Pilgrims, are now to offer your silent 
protests against all that is spectacular in worship ; to " kiss " no " calves " of 
abominations, parading in the name of religion, though all do it over there. 
Remember the eyes of a denomination are on you as faithful witnesses. May you 
be equal to the test ! 

Neither are you to inveigh against strange customs and silly rules. We shall 
expect you all to remember to say "carriage" and "lift" and "tram" and "tup- 
pence" and "boots" and "tarts," and never let slip a Yankee "guess." They 
did n't at Brewster's house or Bunyan's cottage. 

London is to receive, amaze, and weary you by its endless stretches of monot- 
onous streets, historic buildings, and oppressive problems. You won't solve all the 
latter, but don't try to do the British Museum, or to remember all the inscriptions 
on the monuments in the Abbey. Leave something for the next time, or there 
won't be any next time. 

Breakfasts is the name of them — those semi-gustatory, semi-oratorical recep- 
tions, of which we learn you are to have your fill. " Go to, let us have a breakfast," 
will be the first serious proposition we shall hear on your return. Philanthropy is in 
it and culture and creature benefit. The Puritans will have all the needed salt in 
themselves. 

Our dear Congregational appendix — our "proselyte of the gate" at Oxford! 
How proud you will be as you walk about it and count its neo-classic towers, with 
never a rook condescending to make its nest in them ! We all join in any hurrahs 
with which you may rashly break the dignified silence of that cloistered retreat. 
We do not care if you wake Wolsey from his sleep to see how the Protestant thrives 
where he was once anathematized and burned. As you journey, in true Pilgrim 
fashion, to the tomb of Becket, not on palfrey and prancing steed, but via the 
London and Southwestern Railroad, we enjoin you to reserve, every one, your 
" Canterbury tale " till we can have it at first hand. We empower you to contribute 
our Peter's Pence for the restoration of the ancient fane, as our good friend, the 
Dean, cordially invites all generous Americans to do. 



JSon Dosage 

Across the yeasty stretch of waters, in the realm of flaunting windmills and 
piles of red cannon-ball cheeses, clatter of sabots and jingle of guldens, how will you 
survive, unless by the same honest hearts as the first fugitives did ! Settle it for us, 
whether our fathers were more Dutchmen than Englishmen. If you can get any 
more "light " from John Robinson on that matter, bottle it and let it " break forth " 
on arrival here. We rejoice that you cannot stay long there, lest your morals suffer 
in the corrupt atmosphere as did those of the I^ilgrim youth. Paris the gay, and 
Heidelberg the romantic, and Lucerne the beautiful — the names make us almost 
wild with desire to set foot within their borders. Some, with a preference for H^O, 
still find it desirable to drink "the wine of the country," but, brethren, " we are per- 
suaded better things of you, though we thus speak." 

Sunrises on the Righi, castles on the Rhine, the mysterious concoctions of the 
table d'/wie, these crowd upon our imagination till envy stirs within us and we crack 
some of the commandments. This is our consolation — soon the days will have 
passed and you will be headed like the Star of Empire, a rested, wise, enthusiastic 
band of travelers, who have done what you could to seal more firmly the bonds which 
unite Briton and American, and to bring in the everlasting years of peace and the 
latter-day glory of our Congregational order. So we say to the good ship Columbia, 

Sail on, nor fear to breast the sea! 

Our hearts, our hopes, are all with thee, 



Are all with thee — are all with thee. 



^^j^oju^u/^ yUj''i<? 



iJ^^^C^ 




IpUorims 

Memories of men of long ago, on the Old Barbican make your round, 

Come from your unhoriEoned home and welcome your children to Plymouth Sound I 

For who are these that fly as a cloud, and as the doves to their windows fly, 

After them blowing the wild west wind, over them springing the western sky? 

After them curling the long green wave, over them blowing the salt sea spray, 

O Pilgrims who sailed off into the gale. Pilgrims adventure back to-day. 

Bringing the fruit of all your faith, bringing the answer to all your prayers. 

For your primal hope and your conquering dream, finished, invincible, crowned, is theirs ! 

Now on this pleasanter pilgrimage than of scallop-shell and staff" and shoon. 

Roving the vale of Avalon, blossomy, bowery, green with June, 

With them, great Memories, haply tread the dust of Arthur, your ancient peer, 

And linger above George Herbert's grave for the gathered flower or the dropping tear. 

Go with them where a Pilgrim made his earlier progress o'er hill and dale, 

And tell them the awful scope and sweep of the dream that was dreamed in Bedford Jail, 

Till the far Celestial City's shine into the dusky prison fell, 

And all the Delectable Country's air blew its breath through the narrow cell. 

Where Chaucer his pilgrims led before, lead your children, great spirits, now ! 

Man of a people who curbed a king, Becket shall smooth his angry brow. 

From his heaven of poesy and song, Milton shall stoop in mighty gyre. 

And the men shall come to companion you whose souls for their faith went up in five. 

Down shadowy length of cloistered aisles, dim with a glory of blazoned dyes. 

Where vast processional pillars lift the vaulted roof into underskjes, 

Where the tide of music falls away from fretted stone and from sculpture fair. 

Show them the splendor you thought less worth than the blessed freedom of simple prayer ! 

And turn, when the English twilight falls like a blessing given at day's surcease. 
With the singing sway of ancestral boughs and the p.issing fragrance of dewy peace, 
And tell them with what heart-breaking \o\e these happy fallows and fields you trod. 
And left them, that those who followed you might come close, close to the heart of God ! 






®n tbe ©cean 



laughter 
ever, too 
wind mis 



EW YORK harbor was brilHant with sunshine on the morning 
of June 4, when promptly at seven o'clock the steamer 
Columbia moved out of her dock and pointed her prow toward 
England. Among her three hundred and forty cabin pas- 
sengers were The Congregatio7ialisf s pilgrims bound for Old- 
World shrines. The great ship moved triumphant in the midst 
of the busy scene, past craft of every sort, till the tall buildings 
of the great cities gave place to green shores and beside 
them flotillas of vessels with white sails swaying idly above a 
glassy sea. 

Soon we moved out into the solemn silences of the deep, 
where the splendid ship, with her broad decks covered with 
a gay company, seemed an intrusion. Yet to the talk and 
came no answer other than constant smiles from sea and sky. Some, how- 
soon grew tired of the monotony of the summer stillness and wished the 
:ht blow. They had their wish. Fog and rain and rolling waves drove the 





Hamburg-American Steamship Columbia. 

amateur travelers to their staterooms and to meditations which frequently broke 
forth in audible renunciation of possessions too eagerly received, too briefly held. 
The blow was a short one and mercifully light. Sunday afternoon a fine audience 
gathered to listen to a helpful sermon from Bishop Potter of New York, from Ps. 
139:4. The bishop told the company of travelers from their homes to foreign 
lands that though they might escape the cares of business, two things would remain 
with them — the consciousness of self and the consciousness of God. Our highest 



Ube Boc]\ oX tbe pilgrimage 



dignity is to accept gladly the responsibilities which God places on us through 
our gifts and opportunities. 

A journey across the Atlantic in these days offers little of interest to the gen- 
eral public, and this one would not de- 
serve mention here were it not for 
the company of pilgrims gathered by 
T/u- Cojigregationalist to celebrate its 
eightieth year by visiting scenes famil- 
iar in the history of New England. 
These pilgrims, too, were described 
quite at length in our paper before 
leaving America, but many items of 
interest have come out in the conversa- 
tions daily held on the steamer's decks. 
Two names, at least, are borne by 
direct descendants of the original Pil- 
grims, Robinson and Soule. Others, 
also, can trace their ancestry back to 
the same source, and some cherish 
family traditions of brave deeds done 
in the early days of Massachusetts Col- 
ony. One lady relates that J^among 
her grandmothers of several genera- 
tions back one was of the company which became celebrated in the building of the 
church in Essex. After the timbers were raised, the town of Ipswich, to which the 

people belonged, forbade them to proceed, but 
three of 'the women mounted their horses, rode 
to a neighboring settlement, and secured help to 
finish the building. The three women were im- 
prisoned for a week, when they said they were 
sorry and were therefore released, but they 
gained their church and settled a minister. An- 
other lady can trace her ancestry directly back to 
John and Priscilla Alden. 

Nearly all our pilgrims are of New England 
blood, but their homes to-day stretch from the 
Atlantic to the Pacific coast, and not a few of 
their families have done noble service in planting 
and maintaining Christian institutions of the 
Pilgrim type in the interior and far Western 
ifts have come to Congregational churches, colleges, 




Captain H. Vogelgesang, SS. Coli 




A Snapshot at Bishop Potter. 

States. From others generous 



and seminaries. It would have been difficult to gather so large a company more 



®u tbe ®cean 



thoroughly identified with interests dear to the denomination which the Pilgrims 
from old England represented and for which they braved the terrors of the wilder- 
ness and planted the greatest of the nations. 

In mid-ocean each member of the party received an elegantly engraved invitation 

from the Mayor of Plymouth to a reception 
in the Guildhall, Friday evening of this 
week. 
//„„.„ / /^/// ff// Several of the party seek restoration 

J to health impaired by severe and pro- 

longed labor. It is curious to note how 
difficult it is for a busy professional or 
business man to learn the art of being idle. 
He feels that he must make a business of 
resting and drive it through. He will sit 
for a little while in his reclining chair till, 
Invitation of the Mayor and Mayoress of Plymouth. impelled by conscicnce to redeem the time, 

he paces the deck with Puritan persist- 
ence, persuading himself that he is laying up stores of strength for future need. 
Then he will sit down again and calculate how many more hours he will require to 
get well. His hardest lesson is to learn that for him idleness is virtue, but nowhere 




tlbe asooh of tbe pilgrimage 

are better opportunities to learn that lesson than in a summer voyage like this. 
The clouds that float lazily in the sky look clown with contempt on his restlessness. 
They clasp hands and steal after the gliding ship and shake themselves over it in 
summer showers. Then the sun pours his glory over the glinting waves, the band 
plays dreamy waltzes, the hum of voices falls lower, we close our eyes because the 
lids grow heavy and wonder how any one can find it difficult to be idle. The end 
comes all too soon. In just seven days the Columbia discharges us on to a tug 
at the Plymouth breakwater and majestically moves on toward Hamburg. — A. E. D. 




SS. Colu 



Plymouth Harbor. 



Thi£ Business Arrangements for The Pilgrimage 
were intrusted to the firm of Henry Gaze & Sous, Ltd., 
who served us in 
connection with our 
Oriental Tour 
of 1S95. They ap- 
pointed Mr. F. E. 
Murrell conductor 
of the party, and 
he accompanied us 
throughout the trip. 
He is a man of unu- 
sual executive ability 
and large experience 
and managed the af- 
fairs of The Pilgrimage to the entire satisfaction of all. 




Tuii .SS. Columbia, on which the Pilgrims sailed, is 
a twin-screw express steamer, built on the .Mersey. She 
is 463 feet long, 55 feet wide, and 35 feet deep from 
her main deck to the keel, and has five decks con- 
structed solidly of steel and teak. She has two distinct 
sets of boilers, two engines, two shafts, and two screws, 
both sets working independently of each other, and 
separated by one solid longitudinal bulkhead, running 
from the keel to the upper deck. Each side of the 
ship is again subdivided into numerous water-light com- 
partments which do not communicate with each other. 
The enormous engines of 13,000 horse-power are of 
the triple-exjMnsive type, and are capable of propelling 
the ship at the rate of 19^ knots an hour. She has a 
loading capacity of 7,578 tons, and can carry 220 first 
cabin passengers, 120 second class, and 800 steerage. 



^be pilQriins in pl^moutb 



sluggish 
cabin to 
contrast 



AX O'RELL, in liis good-natured criticism of Americans, 
affirms tliat they always use adjectives in the superlative 
degree. But we of The Congregationalisfs Pilgrimage Party 
may be pardoned for indulging in superlatives when describ- 
ing our visit to Plymouth, for our reception there so far ex- 
ceeded anything we ever dreamed of that moderate speech is 
impossible. We were met in the Millbay Docks by a deputa- 
tion of nine gentlemen from the Three Towns' Council of 
Free Churches, assisted by them through the custom house 
and escorted to the Duke of Cornwall Hotel. From that time 
onward, during our three days' stay, they and others were 
untiring in their attentions, and we shall bring home a new 
idea of English hospitalit}^ 

This committee came out on a tender, and the most 
imagination must have been stirred as hosts and guests met in the little 
listen to the address of welcome from Rev. Samuel Vincent. What a 
was our incoming to the outgoing of the Pilgrims of 1620! The sadness 





The Hoe, Plymoulh. 

of their farewell and the joyousness of our welcome, together with the marvelous 
changes in history since the time of James I, were graphically portrayed by Mr. 
Vincent in his admirable and cordial speech. 



Zhc 'Book of tbe piUjrimage 




Zbc pilorims in pl^moutb 



The next morning several of this same committee, among them Professor 
Chapman and Rev. Messrs. Lambert, Rudall, Maxwell, and Slater, accompanied us 
as we explored the odd nooks and corners of this ancient city of about one hundred 
thousand inhabitants, under the leadership of the borough 
librarian, Mr. W. H. K. Wright, who is a Fellow of the 
Royal Historical Society, an accomplished scholar and an 
ideal guide. If Americans realized what there is to be 
seen in Plymouth, they would never think of landing at 
Liverpool or Southampton, now that the American Ham- 
burg steamers touch at this famous port where ships of the 
admiralty are often at anchor, and where Agnes Weston's 
remarkable work for British sailors may be seen at the 
Sailors' Rest. 

We went first to the George Street Baptist Chapel, 
occupying the site of the building in which the Pilgrims ""' ' ' ""'"'' ' 

were entertained before their departure to America. Among the tablets was one 
to the memory of Abraham Cheare, a former minister who died in exile on 
Drake's Island for conscience' sake. The next objective point was St. Andrew's 
Church, where Archdeacon Wilkinson graciously explained its numerous interest- 
ing features, and placed the ancient records at our disposal for examination. We 
halted at the free library, opposite which stood the town house of Robert 
Trelawney, one of those to whom James I granted the charter for the founding 
of the Plymouth Colony. Close by was the residence of Sir Francis Drake, 





al Slab and Tablet i 



Ubc .TBooft of tbe pilGvimaoe 

whose statue adorns The Hoe, that fine park on the harbor front. By degrees we 
came to the Old Barbican pier, passing through the queerest streets and alleys 
imaginable. No wonder the residents swarmed out of the low, checker-windowed 
houses to see what the unusual procession meant. Pins Lane and New Street — 
the latter being the oldest street in town — were indescribably picturesque, with 
narrow stone steps, similar to those at Clovelly, leading past the diminutive stone 
cottages, with overhanging second stories, to higher levels beyond. It added much 
to our enjoyment to be accompanied by John Barrett, the artist, and to hear his 
comments on these delightfully quaint bits. Of course we all stood on the slab in 
front of the custom house, inscribed " Mayflower, 1620," and the dozen lineal 
descendants of the Puritans in our party must have felt a peculiar thrill as their feet 
touched the sacred stone. The slab and the inscribed tablet affixed to the adjoining 
wall were placed in their position in 1891, following the meeting of the International 
Council in London, by Mayor Bond, who, by a happy coincidence, was then serving 
his first term in office. We passed the house in which Catherine of Aragon was 




The Deer Park, Mount Edgcumbe. 

entertained by one of the leading merchants in 1501, also the birthplace of Dr. 
Kitto, now occupied by a brewery, and finished the forenoon by climbing to the top 
of the old citadel which commands a superb view of the harbor. The old sculp- 
tured gateway which forms the main entrance to the citadel rewarded careful 
examination, and the whole place bristles with stirring incidents connected with the 
civil wars. 

In this connection I wish to voice the sentiment of the entire party in saying 
with the strongest emphasis that it makes all the difference in the world to be con- 
ducted through a strange city by a scholarly man like Mr. Wright or to go with the 
conventional guide. Some of his literary illustrations on historical points were 
delightful. For instance, in one place he read a charming extract from Elihu 
Burritt's " A Walk from London to Land's End," and in another a passage from one 
of Davenant's dramas, both of which were deliciously apropos. Our last excursion 
in Plymouth was an enjoyable trip to the beautiful Mount Edgcumbe Park, the 
estate of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe, special permission having been obtained 
from his lordship by the Evangelical Free Church Council. The place is reached 



Zhc pUdvims in plpmoutfj 



by means of a little steamer, 

and after a two hours' ramble 

in groves and gardens again 

we stood upon its deck and 

exchanged regretful farewells. 

One of the party in behalf of 

all thanked our English friends 

for their innumerable cour- 
tesies, all joined in singing, 

" Blest be the tie that binds," 

and after repeated hand-shak- 
ings we went our separate ways. 
But the cream of the Plym- 

outh visit was the reception 
in Guildhall on Friday evening by the mayor and mayoress, at which about three 
hundred of the leading citizens were present. The interior of this fine municipal 
building was superbly decorated for the occasion, potted plants, palms, draperies, 
intertwined flags of the two nations, and colored fairy lights being tastefully dis- 
played. The'rich blue carpet was thickly covered with a profusion of Oriental rugs 






XTbe Boot? of tbe ipilgrimage 

and skins, and on either side of tlie room were arcades divided off by large pillars 
into sitting rooms, screened in front with Japanese hangings. Outside the pillars 
were life-size figures representing the fine arts. Near the memorial window, which 
represents the departure of the Pilgrim Fathers, was a raised platform where the 
mayor, Alderman Bond, stood when he welcomed us most felicitously as " hostages 
of peace." Fitting replies were made by Rev. Messrs. Dunning, Dexter, Robinson, 
Soule, and Hon. J. A. Lane. The mayor wore his ofificial robe, an imposing scarlet 
gown trimmed with black velvet and sable, and lined with white satin. Over this 
was a series of massive gold chains, from which depended the municipal seal. 
Ladies will be interested to know that black satin. Duchess lace, and diamonds 
formed the essential points of Mrs, Bond's dress, but her grace and urbanity far 
outshone the brilliancy of her jewels. 

In order to appreciate the full significance of this function it should be remem- 
bered that the office of an English mayor is a purely honorable and not a salaried 
position, and carries far more distinction with it than a similar position in the average 
American city. Those who enjoyed his hospitality at the time of the International 
Council will have some conception of the privileges we experienced through his 
courtesy. The full band of the Welsh regiment, by kind permission of its colonel, 
furnished grand instrumental music, and the famous tenor from Exeter Cathedral, 
J. Dean Trotter, was among the soloists. Some of the American speakers followed 
our home custom of addressing the mayor as " Your Honor," which seemed to 
amuse our English friends, who restrict themselves to the simpler form of "Mr. 
Mayor." But never could the American title be more worthily bestowed than in 
the case of Mr. Bond, who is enthusiastically beloved by the citizens. 

Let no one suppose, however, that T/ic Congregationalist' s Pilgrimage Party is 
having only a round of social gayeties. Beneath these enjoyable functions it is easy 
to see that Christian fellowship is the golden link which binds us together, and 
friends at home would be gratified, and perhaps astonished, to hear the applause 
whenever, in the public addresses, allusions are made to the impossibility of another 
war between the two great English-speaking races. It is worth crossing the ocean 
to see these evidences of international friendship. 

" The Interesting American visitors who appeared " The speeches, however, were the feature of the 

in our streets yesterday do not seem to be typical of evening, — cheery, eloquent, incisive, and suggestive. 

Uncle Sam as he is depicted in the comic papers. Not The talking on occasions of this sort is often formal 

one of them wore striped trousers or a star-spangled and complimentary, and nothing else. The addresses 

garment. of the visitors from the States last night were of a 

" The only goatee in the assembly helonged to an different stamp, and it was an intellectual refreshment 

Englishman, and of 'guessing' and 'calculating' and to listen to the vigorous and thoughtful utterances of 

boasting there was little or none. Some spoke with a men who, while modestly disclaiming any title to be 

rising inflection, which was not at all nasal. The com- reckoned as representative Americans, are certainly 

plexions were American, but faces were full-fleshed, representative of some of the best elements of Anier- 

and bodily framework sturdy. ican society." — A Plymouth Morning Paper. 



Zbc pilarims in lExcter 




T is impossible to convey to the friends at home who are fol- 
lowing our course with eager interest any idea of the recep- 
tion accorded to us by English people. Ever since we landed 
in Plymouth it has been one continuous ovation. Our heads 
might be turned by this extraordinary attention did we not 
realize that it is offered to us, not as individuals, but as repre- 
sentatives of Puritan principles and ideas. We are only 
ciphers, and the significant figure is Congregationalism. We 
sometimes hear complaints at home of a lack of denomina- 
tional loyalty, but the charge can never be made against any 
member of this party, for after visiting these sacred shrines 
and seeing how our polity is cherished by our brethren on 
this side of the Atlantic we realize 
anew what a price was paid for our 
religious liberty, and are proud of the glorious inheritance 
bequeathed to us. 

We reached Exeter about six p.m., via the London and 
Southwestern express, compartments in first-class carriages 
having been reserved for our use. A fraternal welcome 
was awaiting us at the station in the person of Rev. W. 
Justin Evans, pastor of the Southernhay Congregational 
Church, who escorted us to the Rougemont Hotel. On 
the landing of the principal staircase is a beautiful his- 
torical window to which, just then, we could give only a ''^"- ^- "^ ^'^"^ 
passing glance as the officials of the cathedral were waiting to conduct us through 
the building. The window illustrates the scene from Richard III, in which that 
ill-favored monarch exclaims to my Lord of Buckingham : — 

" Richmond! when last I was at Exeter, 
The Mayor, in courtesy, shewed me the castle. 
And called it Rougei?iont ; at which name I started, 
Because a bard of Ireland told me once 
I should not live long after I saw Richmond.^'' 

It was an ideal time of day for one's first entrance into an English cathedral, 
just as the rays of a June sunset were stealing through the "storied windows richly 
dight," lighting up the " high embower'd roof," bringing into clear relief every 
detail of rich carving and intensifying the sense of grandeur by sending its golden 
shafts far down the Norman nave into remotest recess of aisle and choir. We 




Ube Bool? of tbe pilgrimage 




Ube pilgrims in Exeter 




assembled in the chapter house where Canon Atherton, representing the Dean and 
Chapter, received us cordially, saying that we are all working for the same great 
purpose, and in God's work we are linked across the ages as we are across the miles 
that separate us. Dr. Robie made a fitting response in behalf of the pilgrims, after 
which Canon Edmonds officiated as guide. In what he 
modestly termed an informal talk he gave us a choice lec- 
ture on mediaeval art in his outline of the history and 
architecture of the stately edifice. We are realizing more 
and more what it is to have men like him act as interpreters 
and guides. The original Domesday Book of the five 
western counties which has been in the library since the 
tenth century, also the charter of Edward the Confessor, 
founding the cathedral, and the thirteenth century Psalter 
were among the articles of interest exhibited. The pulpit 
in memory of Coleridge l^atteson, the queer little gallery 
where the minstrels played in olden times, and the bishop's ^'^ ^ 

throne, made without a nail in it, so that it could be taken 

down and hidden away in times of danger, — which was actually done more than 
once, — were other objects explained with an elegance of diction and manner 
which charmed us all. To see Exeter Cathedral, under the direction of Canon 
Edmonds, was for the party a peculiarly fortunate introduction to English ecclesi- 
astical architecture. In a marvelously simple manner the evolution of styles from 
the earliest Norman to the latest development of the Gothic was made beautifully 
clear, and at every point an illustration in stone was before our eyes, so skillfully did 
our leader conduct the party from point to point of his much-loved edifice, every stone 
of which he knows, every stone of which has a story, and he the infallible interpreter. 

At this point, when both sense and imagination were held captive, a new delight 
was added by the sound of exquisite music from the organ 
(a remarkably fine instrument with a case of notable 
beauty), which stands midway down the nave, thus break- 
ing its long perspective. The cathedral organist, Mr. D. J. 
Wood, held us entranced with the strains of Mendelssohn's 
Fourth Sonata, and other selections, until the gathering 
darkness warned us that we must return to the hotel. Un- 
used to the long English twilights, we were astonished to 
find that it was now eight o'clock. We had not yet dined, 
and at nine we were due at Mr. Evans' church for a public 
reception! We deplored our late arrival, but our Noncon- canon Atherton. 

formist friends, who had patiently waited for more than an hour, appreciated the 
unavoidable causes of delay and kindly condoned the seeming discourtesy. 

When we entered the church, which was tastefully decorated for the occasion 
with flowers, British and American flags, and Y. P. S. C. E. emblems, the large con- 




Ube Bool? of tbe pilgrimage 

gregation rose en masse and welcomed us with clapping of hands. The appropriate 
hymn, " We come unto our fathers' God,'' was then sung in a way that puts our best 
congregational singing at home entirely in the shade. Mr. Evans made a breezy 
address, in which he said that there was too much of Christ in the churches of both 
lands ever to allow them to fight one another. Their faith was one, their interests 
were common, and the victory of one was the success of the other. Equally fervent 
were the words of Rev. D. P. McPherson, on behalf of the Baptists, who claimed 
that some of the Pilgrim Fathers were undoubtedly of that denomination. The 
pastors of all the other dissenting churches in this Queen City of the west of 
England, also Mr. A. W. Tuckvvell, representing the Young People's Societies of 
Christian Endeavor, alternated with half a dozen Americans in brief, pithy speeches 
in which every allusion to the strong tie which binds the two nations together 
elicited enthusiastic applause. One cannot resist the conviction that this little body 
of itinerant Congregationalists is being used, in the providence of God, to cement 
the bond by showing in miniature, as it were, the real feeling that exists between the 
English-speaking races. 

It was nearly eleven o'clock when the exercises closed by the congregation 
singing lustily together, " The Son of God goes forth to war." Our considerate 
hosts accepted the validity of weariness on the part of the American clergymen as 
an excuse for not preaching the next day, although Rev. E. K. Holden, of Bridge- 
port, generously consented to occupy Mr. Evans' pulpit, and was listened to by a 
large congregation. Sunday was passed quietly in attendance upon divine service 
at the Nonconformist churches in the morning and the cathedral in the afternoon, 
some of us going later to the house of Mr. Henry Tolson, where we enjoyed our first 
glimpse of a typical English home. 

When we recalled all that had transpired since landing only three days before, 
the writer was reminded of what Professor Henry Drummond said during his last 
visit to America. A great deal of enjoyment had been crowded into two particular 
days when he was the guest of a certain well-known Northampton gentleman. On 
his departure Professor Drummond exclaimed, " Is it possible that I 've been here 
only forty-eight hours ! " Then, stretching himself to his fullest height, he added, 
"Well, this is what expands and enriches life and makes it worth the living." 



^bc pilavim0 in Mclls ant) (5lastonl>iu\> 




'E felt the force of Madame de Stael's famous aphorism, that 
" traveling is the saddest of all pleasures," when we turned 
away from Devonshire with its sea-girt coast and wind-swept 
moors, its rugged cairns and giant tors, a region invested by 
Kingsley with immortal charm and endeared from henceforth 
to the New- World pilgrims as the place where they first expe- 
rienced the boundless measure of English hospitality. The 
same generous welcome awaited us, however, at Wells, a quiet 
old town nestling in a pleasant valley at the foot of the 
Mendip Hills. Here, as elsewhere. Nonconformist friends 
were on hand to " greet the coming and speed the parting 
guest," our special cicerone being Rev. T. J. Kightley, pastor 
""' =^ - "" ' — ■- of the little Congregational church. He is a delightful old 

gentleman whose slender figure, silvery locks, and courtly manners reminded one 
strongly of Dr. C. A. Bartol of Boston. 

Before conducting us through the cathedral he bade us linger on the wide- 
spreading lawn in order to feast our eyes upon the marvelously sculptured western 
fagade of the cathedral and take in the full beauty of all 
its surroundings. What an impression of stillness and 
antiquity is given by the hoary edifice rising from its sea 
of greensward, its southern side overlooking a wealth of 
blooming gardens, and beyond them the old moat shadowed 
by mighty elms ! Our strenuous American life seemed to 
gather an ineffable peace as we loitered without or followed 
our guide within, listening as he told us, with painstaking 
fidelity, the story of some valiant life enshrined in monu- 
ment or effigy, or as he pointed out the different periods 
of architecture in traceried window and Gothic arch. We 
visited the chapter house, the only one in England that has 
two stories, going up the unique and beautiful staircase 
which branches on one side to the covered stone bridge '^^"- '■''■ '^«™'*!'- 

leading to the Vicars' close, and on the other to the chapter house itself. This is 
a fascinating room with deep window-jambs embellished with rows of ball-flower orna- 
ments peculiar to the Decorated period, a place to hold an antiquarian spellbound. 

From here we went to the Bishop's palace, which is ideally situated in the midst 
of luxuriant gardens and intrenched by the old moat on whose placid waters the 
white swans were floating like stately lilies. The figure of Bishop Ken seemed to 




XTFje 36ooI? of tf^e pilgrimage 

emerge from the dim past and stroll again among the trees and flowers, or sit once 
more in his favorite nook on the wall above the moat, dulcimer in hand, singing his 
immortal hymns. Presently we were joined on the lawn by Bishop ICennion, a man 
of noble presence and spirit, who assured us that it was a pleasure to welcome us to 
a building so rich in history and so beautiful in situation. As we passed into the 
chapel it seemed the most natui^al thing in the world for him to suggest that we sing 
together three stanzas of Bishop Ken's familiar hymn. 

All praise to thee, my God, this night, 
For all the blessings of the light. 

His own cultivated voice led the amateur chorus and also in our recital of the Lord's 
Prayer which followed. How simple and sincere and dignified it all seemed ! And 



how it enhances the value 
pause in our journeying for 
ices of devotion! They 
merely conventional tourists 
city that hath foundations 
God." The bishop's bene- 
of his grace and urbanity 
memories which we shall 
this ancient ecclesiastical 
These rare privileges of 
the right mood to enjoy a 
afternoon. All the condi- 
companionship, and local 
adapted to awaken fancy as 
toward the "fair vale of 




Bishop Ke 



of our Christian faith to 
these little spontaneous serv- 
make us feel that we are not 
but pilgrims indeed to "the 
whose builder and maker is 
diction and the impression 
are among the precious 
carry away with us from 
city. 

the morning put us in just 
visit to Glastonbury in the 
tions of weather, scenery, 
tradition were perfectly 
we drove in open carriages 
Avalon," where, according 



to tradition, Joseph of Arimathea landed and built the first church in England, and 
where King Arthur and Guinevere lie buried. The pastor of the Congregational 
church. Rev. W. P. Hogben, and several other English friends, among them Mrs. 




The Bisnop's Pali--., W, 



tlbe pilgrims in Mells anb Glastonbury 




XLhc 3Boo\i ot tbe ipilortmage 

Clark, a daughter of John Bright, were waiting to proffer the customary warm 
welcome. They joined us, too, in our walk to the old Abbey, enough of whose 
majestic ruins remains to give a correct idea of the extent of ground originally 
covered by the ancient pile. 

In the, shadow of these ruined fragments of a once glorious structure, and fresh 
from the almost perfect group of cathedral buildings at Wells, we remembered 
Canon Edmonds' suggestive remarks at E.xeter in anticipation of this day's expe- 
riences, and we were impressed at the striking commentary time has supplied in the 
old truth, " He that findeth his life shall lose it, and he that loseth his life for my 




ph's Chapel, Glastonbury Abbey. 



sake shall find it." At Wells they builded a house to the glory of God and for the 
benefit of men, with no barriers between priest and people. At Glastonbur_\- an all- 
powerful monastic order reared walls to keep out sin and the world, in order that 
those within the sacred precincts should forever be undisturbed in the selfish enjoy- 
ment of personal culture and private devotion ! The one temple is still a place for 
ministry to souls, the other is a mass of crumbling ruins. 

Alderman J. G. L. Bulleid, president of the Antiquarian Society, summarized 
in graphic fashion the history of the Abbey from its foundation to its fall, and pointed 
out such of the remarkable architectural features as have resisted the slow touch of 
time. The mystic thorn tree, fabled to have been planted by Joseph of Arimathea, 



tTbe iPilgrtms in WLcUs anb (Blastonbur^ 




Ube Booli ot tbe UMlgrimaGe 





"Cbe pilorims in Mells anb ©lastonbur^ 

and whose offshoots still bear hawthorn blossoms in the midst of winter snows, rises 
against the wall. 

Not far off is St. Michael's Tor, from which may be gained an entrancing view 
of the valley so beautifully described by Tennyson : — ■ 

Deep-meadowed, happy, fair with orchard lawns, 
And bowery hollows, crowned with summer seas. 

It was an hour to close one's eyes and dream. From the lofty turrets, overgrown 
with ivy, one could again hear the bell that "warned the cowled brother from his 
midnight cell." Through those massive arches again rever- 
berated the Tibi gloria, Doinine, of white-robed priests; 
down the mouldering aisles crept the wail of Misereres. The 
whole story of Arthur wove its spell about us as never 
before. Who says that he exists only in legend .■' Did not 
our eyes see him that summer afternoon, the very flower of 
British chivalry, riding with his stainless knights on to his 
glorious coronation in the church .' Did we not see Guine- 
vere robed for her bridal, coming forth on that glad May 
morning to meet the king, her hand in Arthur's but her 
heart with Lancelot } Did we not follow them through all „ ,„ „ ,, , 

o Rev, W, P. Hogben. 

the common tragedy that ensued, till penitence had wrought 

its purifying work, and sin and failure were buried deep in the sea of forgiveness .' 
We even saw in imagination the tower of Almesbury rising in the distance where 
for three years the repentant queen, as abbess, prayed and fasted and distributed 
dole to expiate her sin till she passed "to where beyond these voices there is 
peace." It was at Glastonbury that the Holy Grail was housed ; it was here the 
stoled fathers met the bier bearing the form of Arthur when wounded to his death. 
To the solemn sound of chanted orison they lowered the body into the ground 
before the altar in St. Joseph's wattled church, and with his ashes mingle those of 
the golden-haired Guinevere. Only a romance.' True; but one that holds in it the 
eternal verities of right and wrong, one that has had power for a thousand years to 
sway human hearts. Let critics dispute as they may whether the locality of the 
Arthurian legends be in the north or the south of Britain, for us they will ever 
be associated with the region whose fair expanse was spread before our vision on 
that June afternoon. 

Enriching as the day had been thus far, one more pleasure awaited us in the form 
of a strawberry tea in the Sunday-school rooms of Mr. Hogben's church. There 
was no glamour of tradition, no aesthetic carving or coloring in the plain edifice, but 
there was the deeper satisfaction which arises from Christian fellowship. Nor were 
touches of beauty altogether lacking, for the small room was transformed into the 
semblance of a veritable garden by a profusion of flowers and ferns tastefully 
arranged. And how attractive the tables were with their heaped-up baskets of 



TLbc Booft ot tbc piU3vimatie 

luscious strawberries and dainty edibles of various kinds ! It was an unqualified joy 
to hold converse with these hospitable people who made us feel indeed that 

Kind hearts are more than coronets. 
And simple faith than Norman blood. 

After doing ample justice to the viands provided for our bodily refreshment we 
adjourned to the main audience room for a brief season of song and prayer, led by 
Mr. Hogben. A letter was read from Rev. Mr. Rawlinson, president of the Somer- 
set Congregational Union, regretting his unavoidable absence, and remarks were 
made by Messrs. N. W. Littlefield and VV. F. Whittemore of the party. The meet- 
ing closed by singing, with uncommon fervor, "The church's one foundation." 
There was time for a short visit to the Museum before driving back to Wells in the 
light of a lovely sunset that flooded with roseate hue the entire landscape, from the 
turrets of the ruined Abbey to the roofs of humble cottages in the peaceful valley. 

Before entering the hotel we indulged in one more ramble along the old moat, 
and then assembled at eight o'clock for a substantial dinner at the White Swan, a 
typical English inn, outwardly attractive, with window boxes of flowering plants, and 
inwardly comfortable to the last degree. The bedroom capacity of the house being 
unequal to the demands of our large party, some of us were privileged to lodge in 
the pretty cottages which border the cathedral lawn, and constitute one of the 
charming features of Wells. Before separating for the night we again joined in 
singing Bishop Ken's hymn, and for most of us was fulfilled at least one of its 
petitions — " Oh, may sweet sleep mine eyelids close !" 

They were cordially received by His Lordship on the They might not see eye to eye in every respect, but they 

lawn, who, addressing them, said it gave him great might be united heart to heart in closest sympathy. He 

pleasure to welcome them to that cathedral and that held Dr. Dale, to whom reference had been malde, as a 

house so rich in history and so beautiful in its situation. personal friend and he respected his manly and sincere 

He was glad and felt more and more thankful that the devotion to the principles he conscientiously held, 

same good feeling existed among men of different English churchmen had benefited by the studies of 

thoughts, ways, and labors, and that they could appre- Dr. Dale, whose writings were highly esteemed by 

ciate one another's work and shake hands across the them. Alluding to the title pilgrims. His Lordship 

line which they might deem needful in defining their remarked that they were all pilgrims and hoped to 

conception of their duty. This did not a little to arrive at a common home. — IVesi of England Advcr- 

broaden their fellowship and cheer them in their work. tiscr. 



^be pilGVims in Salisbury) anb Bcmcrton 




'HAT has become of those " brief, light, pleasant rains" which 
the guidebooks affirm are peculiar to this climate? We sup- 
posed that an umbrella would be a sine qua non for each 
day's excursion, although John Burroughs declares that all one 
has to do in England to avoid a shower is to get over the 
hedge into the next lot ! But thus far sunshine has smiled 
upon our pathway, and the Tuesday morning we started for 
Salisbury was no exception. 

Special carriages were attached to the regular up-train, 
which reached the city at ten o'clock, and we were met at 
the station by several of the Free 
Church ministers and two of the city 
' -~" "^ ' ""' councilors. Both of the latter had 
recently visited " the States " and seemed glad to recipro- 
cate the courtesies accorded them across the Atlantic. 
Carriages conducted us at once to the Congregational 
Church, and after a season of social intercourse we re- 
paired to the adjoining lecture hall, where a sumptuous 
breakfast had been provided by Rev. E. Hassan and a few 
friends. This is the first of those "semi-gustatory, semi- 
oratorical receptions" of which 
Dr. Clark prophesied that we 

'■ ' ,, . ., . . Rev. Edward Hassan. 

should have our fill; and if this 

one is a fair sample we acknowledge the willingness of a 
Barkis to have them repeated all along the route. Here 
again the English love of flowers was manifested in the 
tasteful table decorations, and we had fresh evidences of 
the depth of cordiality in a British welcome. 

The ex-mayor, Mr. E. F. Pye-Smith, presided, and 
paid a delicate tribute to American literature by embellish- 
ing his graceful address with copious quotations from our 
own poets. His opening sentence reflects the spirit of all 
that was said on this delightful occasion : "We can boast 

E F Pye Smth Esq '^ 

no autocrat at this breakfast-table to speak to you kindly 
words of wisdom, but in humbler manner I desire, on behalf of the Nonconformists 
of the city, to give you a very hearty welcome and to wish you God-speed on your 
journey^as you 





tTbe JBoo\\ ot the iPilgrlmage 




Ube pilgrims in Salisbury an5 Bemerton 



' Trace back 
The hero-freighted Mayflower's prophet track 
To Europe.'" 

The same ring of friendly appreciation sounded through the address that fol- 
lowed from Mr. Hassan. No wonder that our hearts were touched and that recip- 
rocally warm sentiments were evoked from the three pilgrims who responded, 
namely, Dr. Dunning, Mr. Leete, and Dr. Robinson. 

It would have been a pleasure to spend the entire day in such a congenial atmos- 
phere, but our hosts realized that the sub-dean, Dr. Bourne, was awaiting us at the 
cathedral and they kindly escorted us thither. All the architectural features of this 
noble pile, which Goldwin Smith calls "the most perfect monument of mediaeval 
Christianity in England," were carefully explained by Dr. Bourne as he stood in the 
west front doorway. Here and at Wells are the two best specimens of the cathedral 
close, and we saw both under conditions that will never be forgotten. But the glory 

of Salisbury, its lofty, slender 

spire, was encased in a scaffold- 
ing for repairs and therefore 

viewed at a disadvantage. Our 

time being limited, we were 

obliged to decline an invitation 

from the bishop to go over the 

palace, but we took a short stroll 

in the lovely deanery gardens 

where Dean Boyle, a man of 

most affable manners, received 

us under the shade of a wide- 
spreading tree. He chatted 

familiarly of American matters 
Dean Boyle. ^^^j spokc affcctiouately of the 

late Dr. Dale, whose acquaintance he enjoyed for many years and to whom he 
alludes in his "Recollections," a book quite recently published. 

It seemed a natural transition from this tranquil spot to the little church in 
Bemerton, where the saintly George Herbert ministered for less than two years, but 
left a memory that has been kept fragrant for more than two centuries. The parish 
churches of England, no less than the stately cathedrals, always appeal to the Chris- 
tian heart, and there is no sweeter music in the world than their mellow chimes 
pealing 

O'er earth's green fields and ocean's wave-beat shore. 





Sub-Dean Bourne. 



This tiny edifice, the smallest of its kind with one exception in England, was 
also undergoing repairs and did not present its best appearance. But the workmen 
suspended operations while we grouped ourselves near the chancel and listened to 



Ube JSooft of tbe pilgrimage 




EMERTON— The Church— The Rectory. 



^be pilgrims in Salisburv anb Bemerton 

Mr. Whittemore as he read a portion of Herbert's quaint poem on Sunday and also 
some familiar verses from " The Elixir," beginning with : — 

Teach me, my God and Kinu;, 

In all things thee to see, 
And what I do in anything 

To do it as for thee. 

We were then led in prayer by Dr. Robie, the modest and scholarly New Eng- 
land parson who, in spirit and purpose, bears a strong resemblance to the unpreten- 
tious rector of long ago. 

After this service, impressive both for its spontaneity and its suggestiveness, 
we crossed the street to the rectory and were cordially welcomed by Miss Warre, 
her brother, the canon, being unavoidably absent. Upon a tablet in the wall outside 
are inscribed these lines, which were written on the mouth of the chimney in the 
hall in Herbert's day : — 

TO MY SUCCESSOR. 
If thou chance to find 
A new house to thy mind, 

And built without thy cost, 
Be good to the poor. 
As God gave thee store. 

And then my labour's not lost. 

The diminutive study remai-ns just as he used it, and the old hall has been 
restored by the present rector. As we wandered from room to room and then passed 
through the drawing-room window into the peaceful rectory gardens beyond, wherein 
stands the medlar tree which tradition says was planted by this parish priest and 
poet, the place seemed filled with his presence. Day by day, during his brief but 
wonderful incumbency, he gathered the people from their tasks for worship, and the 
same bell, one of the uncommon kind known as Alphabet bells, that called plow- 
man and servant to the house of God, still hangs in the small bell tower. This is 
claimed to be the first great historical instance of the English country clergyman 
impressing upon his parishioners the duty of daily devotions in the church. 

There was time before taking the train for Winchester to inspect the massive 
earth mounds, now called Old Sarum, on a neighboring hill, and some of the party 
took the opportunity to drive across the lonely expanse of Salisbury Plain to Stone- 
henge. In both places these monuments of the wild tribal wars of the ancient 
Britons, telling of days of bloody superstition and blind submission to priestly power, 
offered a sharp contrast to the scene of spiritual calm that we had just left. The 
sacrificial fires of heathen rites no longer blaze on these quiet hilltops, for now over 
the whole land reigns the Prince of Peace, whose service is perfect freedom. 



Zbc ipilgrims in Mlincbester anb Jfarnbam 




to inspect anything 




ATE in the afternoon we reached Winchester and were met at the 
= ' station, with a cordiality which has ceased to surprise, but 
y never fails to charm us, by Mayor Dyer, Rev. C. E. Dickinson, 
y^ and two other gentlemen. We were driven directly to the 
cathedral, where Canon Warburton 
stood at the great west door ready to 
conduct us through the majestic edi- 
fice. This is the largest of the Eng- 
lish minsters, and around it clusters a 
wealth of historic interest scarcely 
paralleled elsewhere. It seemed an 
utterly hopeless task, in the brief hour 
at our command, to take even a cur- 
sory glance at the interior, much less 
<; in detail. If left to ourselves, we 
should probably have wandered around in aimless fashion, 
oppressed with a sense of the difificultv of trying to do 

Rev. C E. Dickinson 

anything in so short a time. But through the courtesy of 

Dean Stephens and under the leadership of our accomplished guide, who possessed the 
art of taking salient features, either historic or architectural, and presenting them 
clearly yet concisely, we made a reasonably satisfactory 
tour through the huge building. It was one of the places, 
however, where the inadequac}' of time was deeply felt. 
But several of the party are not altogether novices in 
travel on English soil, and their knowledge is often help- 
fully imparted as we talk over our Pilgrimage eti route. 

On this occasion what we lost in actual vision was 
partially made up by the livelier play of imagination 
prompted by the sunset hour. In proportion as the light 
waned, figures from the dim and distant past took on a 
bolder outline. Far in the background stood Alfred, 
patron of art and letters, compiler of the first Domesday 
Book, and founder of that group of monastic buildings 
whose site alone now suggests his tranquil reign of eigh- 
teen years. Then came an imposing procession of sover- 
eigns, for Winchester, it should be remembered, was for a long time the English 
capital. In the time of Henry I it rivaled London in splendor and renown, but 




The Mayof of Wincheste 



TTbe iptlgrims in Mincbester an& jfarubam 



gradually declined in importance, though still eloquent with a thousand noble 
memories. As we paused for a moment at the tombs and chantries of this royal 
retinue the magic wand of the canon's words touched into lifelike reality each 
character and period. Not kings alone but eminent bishops passed in review, chief 
among them William of Wykeham, whose bold conceit of grafting the Perpendicular 
upon the Norman style of architecture is everywhere in evidence, especially in the 
long, beautiful nave, one of the finest specimens of Perpendicular e.xtant. We were 
reminded, too, that he was the "father of the English public school system," and 



gave an impulse to education 
seen. Of the three great 
famous cricket matches — 
Chester — the last has the 
tiquity, having existed for 
Another of the states- 
Henry Beaufort, lies in 
the strong face looking self- 
stone. When we passed, 
ery gardens we saw the spot 
wards of Bath and Wells, 
against Nell Gwynne, thus 
the " Merry Monarch," who, 
bishop's courage. The 
Queen Mary sat when she 




such as the world had never 
schools which play in the 
Eton, Harrow, and Win- 
prestige of excelling in an- 
five hundred years, 
men bishops of that pei"iod, 
effigy in a stately chantry, 
ish and avaricious even in 
later on, through the dean- 
where Bishop Ken, after- 
bravely took his stand 
defying the displeasure of 
after all, respected the 
quaint old chair in which 
came to the city " in a cruel 



wind and violent downpour of rain" recalled the fact that it was Bishop Gardiner 
who officiated at her ill-starred marriage to Philip of Spain. Standing by this chair 
came a thought, hardly in chronological sequence, of Sir Walter Raleigh, and an im- 
pression, since verified, that in Winchester he wrote the beautiful poem beginning : — 

Give me my scallop shell of quiet, 

My staff of faith to walk upon. 
My scrip of joy, immortal diet, 

My bottle of salvation. 
My gown of glory (hope's true gage ! ) , 
And thus I '11 take my Pilgrimage. 

Possibly the cruel scenes of Mary's reign suggested Raleigh's imprisonment in 
the Tower. But more likely the association of ideas arose from a vision of Crom- 
well's troops ruthlessly despoiling the treasures of the cathedral as they marched 
noisily down the splendid nave, shattering peerless stained glass and hacking noble 
sculptures. Another sharp mental contrast was offered by seeing on the floor in 
Prior Silkstede's chapel, covered with a dingy mat, a slab to the memory of the 
gentle angler. Sir Izaak Walton. What incongruity between the iconoclasm of the 
Roundheads and the serenity of the old man taking his ease upon the banks of 
the Itchen, which still gurgles through the green gardens! Twilight shadows were 



trbe Booft of tbe nMlgrimage 




Ube pilgrims in Mincbester an5 jfarnbam 

fast enfolding us, and the size of the huge gray pile, overrun here and there with ivy, 
seemed intensified in the somber light, while the ponderous central tower seemed 
more than ever depressed under the weight of centuries and darkness. 

Refreshed by dinner at the excellent George Hotel, we wended our way to British 
Hall, where the Nonconformists of Winchester had assembled in large numbers to 
greet our ])arty. Passing through a corridor lined with palms and potted plants, we 
emerged into a large, handsomely appointed room, decorated with choice flowers and 
banners of the two nations harmoniously blended. Councilor Goodbody, one of the 
four who met us at the station, had thoughtfully had placed upon the walls a fine 
engraving of the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers in America. The mayor and 
mayoress, with pastors of the various Independent churches, acted in the capacity of 
host, and the spirit of genuine friendliness manifested by all was enough to warm the 
cockles of the coldest heart. The time spent in the cathedral seemed all too brief, 
but our regret was even greater that we had such a limited opportunity for converse 
with this body of fellow-Christians who outvied each other in hospitality. They 
entertained us with music, speeches in which Rev. Morton Dexter and Rev. L. 
L. Wirt participated, and with toothsome refreshments, after which we adjourned to 
the chapel to enjoy two solos from the " Messiah," admirably rendered by Mr. Munden. 
The evening's pleasure, much of which was due to the forethought of Mr. E. Couzens, 
secretary of the local committee, was brought to a close by the congregation singing 
" All hail the power of Jesus' name." 

It was a weary set of pilgrims who sought their couches about midnight, but not- 
withstanding they were on hand on the morning of June 17 for such a unique cele- 
bration of Bunker Hill Day as never fell to the lot of Americans before. The whirli- 
gig of time brings about strange changes, and it was a curious coincidence that on 
the anniversary of that memorable battle between British and Americans we should 
have been entertained at Farnham Castle by the lord bishop of Winchester, Dr. 
Randall Davidson, and his amiable wife, who is a daughter of the late Archbishop 
Tait. 

Until the English language has a richer vocabulary than now no words can do jus- 
tice to the occasion. Of all the bishops' houses in the land no other is more grandly 
situated, and no other castle, not even Windsor, has been held so long by an 
unbroken succession of men. It stands on an eminence overlooking the valley of the 
Wye, famous for its hop gardens, and to the east is the great deer park, covering 
over 300 acres, the only episcopal deer park remaining in England in which there is 
historical evidence that deer have been kept for 600 years. His Lordship and wife 
graciously received us at the very entrance, and we assembled immediately on the 
spacious staircase, with its magnificent oak carvings, passing along the way traversed 
by kings and bishops for a thousand years, as the bishopric of Winchester dates from 
the days of Ethelbald. 

In this place of inspiring memories, standing midway on the stairs, His Lordship 
gave us a wonderfully interesting lecture, outlining the stirring events of this early 



Xlbe 3Booft ot tbe pilGrimage 



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[._.3 






tibe iptilgrims in Wincbester anb jfarubam 



period, down through the days of Henry de Blois, who made the castle a formidable 
fortress, through the miserable reign of John, of whom the chronicler said, " Hell was 
made fouler by the entrance of his soul," on to the Tudor period, mentioning the 
names of Fox, Wolsey, Gardiner, Mary Tudor, and hosts of others who had passed in 
panorama before us only the preceding night. He depicted the period of the civil 
wars, when the castle was tossed like a shuttlecock between the contending armies, 
and came at length to modern days when the preceding incumbent. Bishop Thorold, 
undertook "to make it as easy as possible for a successor to reside at the castle " by 
adding modern improvements. Here the unhappy Mary stopped on her way to 
Winchester to marry Philip of Spain, here Elizabeth fre- 
quently tarried, and James I made himself so obnoxious by 
his costly visits that the bishop tartly inquired " if he 
looked on Farnham as an inn." 

This remarkably lucid historical sketch, occupying 
about an hour, was the best preparation possible for our 
subsequent inspection of the castle and its old keep, which 
is approached through a subterranean passage. We were 
divided into four groups, one each under the guidance of 
His Lordship, Mrs. Davidson, and two other members of 
the household. Among the points of special interest was 
the bedchamber of Bishop Mor- 
ley, chaplain to Charles H, in his 
Bishop Davidson cxllc, and practically the rebuilder 

of the castle. It is a bare little room, for he was a man of 
ascetic habits, who rose at 5 a.m. the year round, took only 
one full meal a day, and denied himself the comfort of a 
fire in the coldest weather. A single small window faced 
the east and a dark recess served as a "penitential cell." 
Other fascinating places were the old thirteenth century 
kitchen, probably the work of De Lucy, with its immense 
fireplace at one end, and the stately banquet hall where 
half the sovereigns of England have sat at meat. A balus- 
traded gallery runs round two sides, and over the richly 
carved fireplace hangs the melancholy portrait of Bishop Mrs, Davidson. 

Morley. On the lintel of one huge beam is inscribed the old French motto, An 
Dieu foy ; aiix amis foyer (To God faith ; to friends the hearth). 

It was in this room, teeming with historic associations, that we were entertained 
at luncheon, after a most uplifting service in the domestic chapel at which Mr. 
Davidson wore the blue ribbon and seal of the Garter over his bishop's robe. The 
former he kept on during the meal. The chapel is a long, narrow room separated 
from the corridor (where stands the organ which Mrs. Davidson played) by a beau- 
tiful Renaissance screen of openwork. The stalled seats, which our little company 





Ube Bool? of tbe lC>tlgrimage 

nearly filled, are of rich dark wood and the wall panels are carved with designs of 
cherubs' heads, fruit, and flowers. The opening hymn, 

O God, our help in ages past, 

the Scripture lesson and prayers drew us all nearer to the throne of heavenly grace 
and deepened in each soul a sense of the preciousness of our common Christian 
faith. One of the most enriching experiences of our trip thus far was this chapel 
service, together with the opportunity of breaking bread with a host and hostess like 
Bishop and Mrs. Davidson, whose urbanity and generous hospitality will never be 
forgotten by The Congregationalism s pilgrims. The tenor of his formal greeting, 
given at the close of the meal, may be inferred from these characteristic sentences : 
" In our political, our social, our civic life, no less than in our religious life, mutual 
toleration and friendship and affection will bring peace instead of strife. . . . We 
shall be thankful indeed if, even in the smallest degree, such a gathering as ours to- 
day tends to render absolutely impossible what would undoubtedly be the greatest 
disaster the world has ever seen. I thank you for coming here to-day. I thank you 
for the kind way you have received what little my wife and I have tried to do in 
welcoming you, not to a private home, but rather to a great historic house which we 
are privileged for the time to hold in trust for the good of all." 

Dr. Guinness Rogers was kindly included among the guests, and he, with Dr. 
Dunning and Hon. J. A. Lane, made fitting responses. As we drove away from the 
castle in a gentle rain, our hearts filled with deepest gratitude for the privileges of 
the morning, we carried with us memories as fragrant as the flowers which bloomed 
in every room and added the sweetness of their welcome to the words spoken by the 
noble bishop and his wife. 

On our return to Winchester there was time for a brief visit to the Holy Cross 
Hospital, an ancient almshouse built by Henry of Blois in 1136, and designed origi- 
nally for the support of " thirteen poor men, feeble, and so reduced in strength that 
they cannot support themselves." Thirteen of the poorest boys from St. Swithin's 
School were also sent there for a daily portion of food, and here the " wayfarer's 
dole" is still dispensed. The dole is a relic of the old custom of offering food to 
all chance comers and in deference to lang syne we took our bit of bread and a sip 
of rather attenuated beer. In the fifteenth century the establishment received the 
high-sounding name of the Almshouse of Noble Poverty from Cardinal Beaufort, who 
endowed it liberally, providing for an increase in the number of beneficiaries, and the 
annual income from the two foundations is now about ;^3,500. This is quite munif- 
icent for the modest needs of the few venerable brethren who live in the row of little 
stone cottages facing the quadrangle, and who look picturesque enough as they walk 
across the green, or among the flowers in the tiny gardens, clad in long black or 
plum-colored gowns, with a silver cross hung over the breast. The number of resi- 
dents is strictly limited by the provisions of the two foundations, and they are chosen 
from the class that has "seen better days." The early grant also stipulated that 



trbe llMlgrims in Mincbester an5 farnbam 




Ubc JBooli of tF)e ipilgrimage 

dinners should be given each day to a hundred poor men, although this clause has 
long been a dead letter. But the room where they were accustomed to assemble, 
with smoke-begrimed roof, huge fireplace, and minstrel gallery, is still one of the 
notable features of the establishment. The group of buildings is most interesting 
and valuable from an architectural point of view, particularly the church, which is 
very fine Norman and has recently been restored and redecorated according to the 
ancient scheme of color discovered some years since by one of the brothers, himself 




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An Old Engraving of "The Trusty Servant." 

a mason. With his own feeble hands he toiled for several years almost alone, until 
the results of his labors, revealing the fine old walls, kindled the enthusiasm and 
secured the support of antiquarians and art lovers, who subscribed the necessary 
funds for a complete restoration. On our return from St. Cross we caught a glimpse 
of Winchester School, its glorious chapel and the quaint old picture of " The Trusty 
Servant " in the kitchen corridor, both commanding the interest of the pilgrims. 

Surrounded by these associations of a past extending far back into the twelfth 



Zbe iPilgrims In Tiaiincbester an& jfarnbam 



century, the events of Bunker Hill Day seemed but of yesterday, and the clashing 
of political parties at home in connection with the Presidential conventions sounded 
discordant indeed in this place of tranquil beauty. 



The Bishop's Speech at the luncheon table was so 
charmingly expressed and breathed such a fine spirit 
that alike those who heard it and those who did not will 
be glad of the opportunity of reading it in full : " I am 
glad you have given us the very real and genuine pleas- 
ure of being our guests to-day. Few things would at 
any time give to me and to my wife greater satisfaction 
than to welcome those from across the Atlantic who 
have so many common associations with ourselves in the 
storied centuries that are gone. And when the visit 
has so peculiar a significance, bearing alike on the his- 
tory of the past and on the possibilities of the future as 
has this visit of yours to England, the pleasure is made 
tenfold greater to us all. There are many points on 
which we differ. We don't necessarily bury our differ- 
ences when we bury our strifes. The two things are 
quite distinct. The bitter and even savage strifes of 
two hundred and eighty years ago are, thank God, dead 
and buried to-day. Differences will no doubt continue 
to exist as long as men of different character, tempera- 
ment, and sympathies try honestly to approach great 
subjects in the way in which God enaliles each to see 
them. I will not say that those differences are neces- 
sarily permanent, but we see no immediate prospect of 
their disappearance. Many think — I do not say they 
are wrong — that the variety of aspects in which the 
great truths of our common faith can be presented is in 
itself a gain. Unity and uniformity are two very dif- 
ferent things, and, for myself, I should be sorry to see 
a dull uniformity take the place of the deep and stable 
unity which underlies sc many surface differences. 
Along with you, I welcome Dr. Guinness Rogers as a 
representative, if I may so express it, of the sturdy side 
of our English Nonconformity. It is not my fault that 
there are not others with him here. I asked Dr. Mac- 
kennal. Dr. Horton, and Dr. Barrett, and 1 am exceed- 
ingly sorry that it was not possible for them to accept 
the invitation. We must all have been glad lo learn 
from Dr. Guinness Rogers that his visit has, so far, 
done him no harm (laughter), and that he will go hence 
as sturdy as when he came. You represent, ladies and 
gentlemen, one of the elements in our national history. 
We in the Church of England value the manifold tradi- 
tions which come down to us from former centuries. 
It is the union of many streams from many channels 
wliich makes our strength, and the traditions of Puri- 
tanism have for us their distinctive value not less than 
the traditions that come down in other ways (applause). 



Our Puritan ancestors have as true a place in our history 
on this side the Atlantic as they have in yours on the 
other. To those who come across the sea to revisit 
their own old homes — for they are their own old 
homes — we in England will ever accord a ready and 
fraternal welcome. The circumstances are indeed dif- 
ferent since Bishop Lancelot Andrewes sat in this hall 
while the Mayflower was crossing the Atlantic, and I 
venture to think there are some great truths better 
understood and appreciated now than they were in 
1620. That particular epoch in our history will not 
repeat itself. We thank God and take courage ,as we 
reflect how in days to come that special care for truth 
as God has taught it to the individual soul, which has 
sometimes sundered men, seems likely to unite them 
closer and closer in reverence for the great verities we 
all hold in common. In our pohtical, our social, our 
civic life, no less than in our religious life, mutual tolera- 
tion and friendship and affection will bring peace in- 
stead of strife. Not one of us but looked with horror 
on the clouds that hovered overhead not many months 
ago. We shall be thankful, indeed, if, even in the 
smallest degree, such a gathering as ours to-day tends 
to render absolutely impossible what would undoubtedly 
be the greatest disaster the world has ever seen. I 
thank you for coming here to-day. I thank you for the 
kind way you have received what little my wife and I 
have tried to do in welcoming you, not to a private 
home, but rather to a great historic house which we are 
privileged for the time to hold in trust for the good of 
all. I pray that the blessing of God may rest upon 
you when you return, and that the reminiscence of 
to-day, which will certainly be cherished most closely 
by us, may be among not the least inspiring of those 
which you will carry with you on your homeward way." 
— 77«f Christian Cotnmonwealth. 

Dr. Guinness Rogers, in the course of his remarks 
at the bishop's luncheon, said : — 

" On us rests a very solemn responsibility. We are 
the representatives of Christianity to a certain extent on 
both sides of the Atlantic, and on us rests very much of 
the responsibility of taking care that no false and fool- 
ish pride, no silly notions of diplomatic disputes, shall 
ever be allowed to come in and separate those who by 
every lie that nature can create and that God can give 
are inseparably bound." — Tli.e Christian Common- 
wealths 



Zbc pilorime in ©iforb anb CambriDge 



T is nothing uncommon for Americans to visit the two ancient 
seats of learning which are among the greatest glories of 
Great Britain, to view their gray, weather-stained edifices 
wrought with quaint, Gothic ornament, and to wander through 
their cloistered walks or over their grassy quadrangles. But 
it is most extraordinary when the fellows and masters of these 
institutions proffer theii' services as guides and give hours of 
their valuable time to the entertainment of strangers from 
the New World. Both at Oxford and Cambridge, however, 
this unusual privilege was enjoyed by T/ie Congregationalist' s 
Pilgrimage Party, and the academic cap and gown of our 
leader everywhere proved an open sesanxe to places not 
usually open to tourists. At Oxford we were thus conducted 
by Mr. Hall, whose affable manners and wise guidance made 

the hours spent in his society a pleasure never to be forgotten. 

The apt saying of some one that the city is "bitterly historical " was brought 

forcibly to mind on finding that the large and handsome hotel to which we were 




assigned. The Randolph, was 
Martyrs' Monument. This 
commemorates the burning- 
Ridley, and Cranmer, stands 
tinuous street having four 
the martyrdom is designated 
in front of Balliol. We did 
twenty-one colleges, but by 
typical w e formed some 
ing represented in this "me- 
Among those visited 
in 1264; Magdalen, memora- 
and the long, leafy avenue 
and Christ Church, back of 
the pride of Oxford and the 
last college was founded by 
old dining hall, with its won- 
bewildering array of portraits 
poets; one of Henry VHI, 




Marty 



in close proximity to the 
fine Gothic structure, which 
at the stake of Latimer, 
in St. Giles, that long, con- 
names, but the exact spot of 
by a cross in the pavement 
not undertake to "do" the 
selecting six of the most 
ideas of the wealth of learn- 
tropolis of the muses." 
were ancient Merton, founded 
ble for its magnificent tower 
known as Addison's Walk ; 
which lie the lovely meadows, 
delight of all tourists. This 
Cardinal Wolsey, and in the 
derfuUy carved oak roof, is a 
of statesmen, scholars, and 
by Holbein, is sure to attract 



notice; also the interesting faces of Ben Jonson, Sir Philip Sidney, Sir Robert Peel, 
and Hon. W. E. Gladstone. 

64 



Zhc pilgrims in ®.ifor& an5 (Xambri&Ge 



A striking external feature in all 
English colleges is the box of flowering 
plants placed outside the windows, mak- 
ing a gkiwing mass of bloom against the 
background of dingy stone walls. The 
founder of this pretty fashion of win- 
dow gardening, John Kyrle, is honored 
with a portrait in Balliol, in the same 
room with Wickliffe, Browning, Tait, 
Manning, and a host of other eminent 
men. The Sheldonian Theater is where 
the degrees are conferred, and as we 
passed the grotesque stone busts on 
pedestals outside we recalled the racy 
letter that Phillips Brooks once wrote to 
his little niece, 
"Toodie," de- 
scribing the 

s 
ceremony » 

when t h e I 

honor was be- p 

stowed upon « 

him. "My Doc- o 

tor's g o w n," s. 
he wrote, " was 
red with black 

Principal Fairbairn, n n 

sleeves and is 
awfully prett}'. It was only hired for 
the occasion, for it costs ever so much 
money and I did not care to buy one. 
So you will never see how splendid I 
looked in it, for I shall never have it on 
again." 

Lowell, Holmes, and this season 
Ambassador Bayard, are other Ameri- 
cans who have been similarly honored 
with degrees here. Near by is the 
famous Bodleian Library, a perfect 
treasure house of priceless manuscripts 
and autographs, illuminated missals and 
historic relics, not to mention its 300,000 
books, representing every known de- 





Ube iSSool? of tbe pilgrimage 

partment of literature. Another feature, different from anytliing we have at home, 
is the number of college chapels, often structures of great architectural beauty, 
with richly decorated windows and full of history and legend. 




d College, Oxfoid. 



For our party, however, the crowning event at O-xford was the luncheon at 
Mansfield College. It is a great victory for Nonconformity that its theological 
school now has a home in this scholar's paradise, and that a man like Dr. Fairbairn, 
whose attainments and character have won universal respect, is the principal. The 



tCbe UMlgrlins in ©xforb an& Cambribge 




series of Puritan portraits in tlie dining hall furnished iTim a text for a fine post- 
prandial speecli, in wfiicli he uttered this noble sentiment : " Nothing implies such 
a lack of faith as persecution, and nothing shows so large a faith as liberty." 

Again in Cambridge, through the kind intervention of A. W. W. Dale, we 
enjoyed the exceptional advantage of having either a master or fellow to do the 
honors, Drs. Peele and Morgan serving us in the morning and Dr. Butler, master 
of Trinity, in the afternoon. An agreeable pause in the 
sight-seeing was afforded by a superb organ recital in one 
of the chapels by a nephew of Professor R. G. Moulton, 
of university extension fame. Immanuel College, so 
closely identified with the earliest pilgrim history, was 
of course visited. As Trinity holds a unique place in the 
group of seventeen colleges, being the largest and the 
one which entertains royalty when visiting Cambridge, a 

somewhat detailed account 

of our visit there may be 

of interest. 

Dr. P. T. Forsylh. 

The office of master, 
corresponding to that of college president in America, 
is now filled by Henry Montagu Butler, d.d. He was 
cradled in an atmosphere of learning, his father hav- 
ing been Master of Harrow and afterwards Dean of 
Peterborough. The son has been the recipient of 
signal honor as a preacher, holding, among other 
offices, that of chaplain to the Queen, prebendary of 
St. Paul's, and examining chaplain to Archbishop 
Tait and the present pri- 
mate of all England, Edward 
White Benson. Dr. Butler 
is a man of charming per- 
sonality, who possesses the 
rare gift of making per- 
sons and events of the past 
t hrob with the life of to-day. 
L'nder the spell of his choice 
diction the old portraits on 
the walls seemed to step out 

r ^1 • j: 1 • • A. W. W. Dale, M. A. 

of then- frames and jom our 

procession through rooms where the feet of kings, 
judges, bishops, and teachers had trod before us. 
There is a bit of romance, too, in his second marriage 
to which we could not be insensible, especially when 
67 





Ube JSool? of tbe pilorimacie 




i 



*^=^ 



ililiVi<)iii 




Immanuel College, Cambridge. 

he wove into his fascinating web of talk anecdotes of "little Jim," his son of six, 
whose toy trunnpet we noticed lying carelessly upon a table in one of the stately 
apartments in close proximity to objects of priceless value. When considerably 
beyond middle life Dr. Butler married Miss Ramsay, the Girton graduate of twenty, 
who carried off the prizes in Greek a few years ago, and the music of three little 
children's voices now resounds through the oaken-paneled rooms of old Trinity. 
Not long ago when Ambassador Bayard was a guest in the home, little Jim inquired : 
"Papa, what is an ambassador.^" To which his father gave the wise reply: "An 
ambassador, my son, is a kind, good man who tries to make all good men friends 
with each other." Whereupon the child solemnly inquired : " Is he black .' " 

No words can describe the impressions which crowded upon us as we sat in the 
large, nobly proportioned drawing-room, Dr. Park occupying the Queen's chair, and 
listened to our genial host's account of bygone scenes which had transpired there. 
Looking through the diamond-shaped panes of the great bow wiildow, across a little 
bit of a court, we saw where four typical men, Newton, Macaulay, Thackeray, and 
Lightfoot, once had their quarters. On the walls of this same grand apartment was 




Zhc pilgrims in ®.itov& and Cambriboc 




Zbe Bool? of tbe pilgrimage 

a portrait of Elizabeth in the stiffest of brocades and the widest of ruffs, and 
another of Henry VIII, whom a student at one of the women's colleges wittily 
characterized as "the greatest widower of his age." This last painting was by a 
pupil of Holbein, and on grand occasions a reflector lamp is placed in front to show 
off the fine coloring. Here, too, was a portrait of the great Newton at nearly 
seventy, and bearing a striking" resemblance to the late Dean Stanley, also several 



r^JlM. 




The Greal Court, Trinity College, Cambridge, 



portraits of eminent masters and chancellors of the university, the latter always being 
a person of royal blood or a nobleman of high rank. The present incumbent is the 
Duke of Devonshire. Into this room Elizabeth once came with Lord Burleigh, and 
every sovereign since Anne's time has graced the apartment. Victoria came in state 



in 1847, when the prince 
and again in her jubilee year, 
bedrooms, in which the ap- 
elegant than in many an 
what a wealth of portraits 
terest invested the picture 
who occupied the room the 
LL.D. Shortly afterwards 
Prince of Wales, who took 
sented the son's portrait to 
Other inteiesting rooms 
judges when they come up 
take possession of the es- 
facetiously remarked that 
tion would probably come to 




Dr. H. M. Butle 



consort was made chancellor, 
We were shown the state 
pointments were far less 
American home, but oh, 
on the wall ! A tender in- 
of the Duke of Clarence, 
night before receiving his 
he died, and his father, the 
his M.A. at Cambridge, pre- 
Trinity. 

were those assigned to the 
to the assizes and practically 
tablishment. Dr. Butler 
the whole British constitu- 
an end if he, in his own 



house, should presume to act as host on these august occasions ! They have a 
special kitchen and scullery set apart for their use, lest, as our host jokingly sug- 
gested, they be poisoned with ordinary food. Here, likewise, were faces of men 
who seemed like old friends when introduced in Dr. Butler's inimitable fashion. 



Zbc Ipdgrims in ©.itorb anC» Cambri5ge 

One of Lord Lyndhurst, son of the American painter, Copley, had 'a sad, sweet 
expression, and one of Justice Patteson, father of Coleridge Patteson, of missionary 
fame, was singularly attractive, one hand being placed behind his ear in the attitude 
of listening. An autograph letter accompanies the picture, in which the father 
speaks pathetically of "dear Coley" taking orders and going to far-off Melanesia, 
and the possibility of their never meeting again, a prediction only too soon verified. 

Among the more vivid recollections which we shall retain of that enriching half 
day is the picture of Tennyson in his scarlet gown, the graceful, almost feminine head 
of Arthur Hallam, faces of illustrious statesmen of to-day — Balfour, Harcourt, and 
Speaker Gully — Bishop Wordsworth, a brother of the poet, in scarlet gown and 
white tippet, Whewell and Barrow, each of whom had an amazing range of knowl- 
edge, Westcott and I.ightfoot placed side by side on the great oaken stairway, and 
the tall old clock on the stairs bequeathed by Sir Isaac Newton to Bentley, one of 
the most popular masters of Trinity. Then the walk in the lovely garden, where 
is reputed to be the finest bit of green in all England, a great emerald parallelo- 
gram which, in the language of tradition, " we rolls and we mows for a thousand 
years," and which Wordsworth's room overlooked — where is the artist in words to 
depict the witchery of the scene ? In another garden we saw the lofty, spreading 
tree that nobody could name until Asa Gray came as a guest to Trinity and classified 
it as an ailanthus ; and in the library the noble bust of Byron holding a copy of 
" Childe Harold " in the left hand, together with the original draft of Milton's 
" Paradise Lost " and an endless collection of other treasures, literary and scientific, 
that would require weeks to see satisfactorily. 

From beginning to end the stay of the American pilgrims at Cambridge was a 
continual feast. Our headquarters were at the Bull, a quiet, well-kept inn, having 
a certain dignity consonant with its academic surroundings. Like the college build- 
ings its gray fagade was abloom with flowering plants. Our arrival was toward the 
close of a perfect June day, and we were driven at once to Edenfield, the beautiful 
home of Mr. and Mrs. Munsey, who had invited a large number of guests to meet 
us at a garden party. There were no formal speeches, but words of welcome from 
Rev. P. T. Forsyth, d.d., Mr. Dale, and others, and opportunity for social converse 
under the green trees, where the fragrance of exquisite roses was mingled with the 
aroma of tea and strawberries. Several of the same kind friends came to the station 
on our departure, and once more we fared forth laden with a deep sense of the 
blessedness of that Christian fellowship which has illumined all our way. 



ttbe pilorime in ffiebforb 





FAIRER June morning never dawned than the one when "the 
Pilgrim Fathers," as our party is now popularly called, turned 
their faces toward the shrine of Bunyan in the town of Red- 
ford. We were met at the station by Mr. Greatheart in the 
person of Dr. John Brown, author of the delightful new Life 
of the tinker preacher, and a few other friends, who accom- 
panied us first to the little village of 
Elstow, on the outskirts of Bedford, 
where Bunyan was born in 162S. 

We halted at the quaint cottage 
by the roadside, and passed through 
the tiny hall to a diminutive garden 
in the rear. A room on the left, as 
we entered, was filled with souvenirs which a pleasant 
voiced woman offered for sale, and a little girl's face was 
pressed close against the latticed windows, filled with won- 
dering awe at the sight of these strange Americans. This, 
then, was the place to which the immortal dreamer brought 
his young bride, " Not having so much household stuff as a 

dish or spoon betwixt us both." But she brought him, nevertheless, a precious 
dowry in the shape of "saintly memories of a godly home and trained instincts for 

good." And "she would be- 
guile their summer evening 
walks and their fireside winter 
talks by memories of the good 
man, her father, who had gone 
to heaven." Thus were set in 
motion, in this humble cottage 
with rooms scarcely the size 
of the Columbia's staterooms, 
those influences which con- 
x'erted the " ungodliest fellow 
for swearing" in all the region 
round about into a preacher of 
world-wide renown. 

Not far off is the village 
green where Bunyan was play- 





n 



f ^ 




The New-World Pilgrims, with Dr. John Broi, 



E 






■w««^(S^«w)P«™w 




t the Old Moot Hall, Elstow, 19 June, IE 



tCbe pilgrims in Bebforb 




ing tipcat one Sunday afternoon when a voice from heaven, as searching as that 
v^fhich startled Paul on the road to Damascus, arrested him in his careless career. 
The green is probably the scene of Vanity Fair, and on it stands the curious old 
structure known as the Moot Hall. The whole estate was once a royal manor, and 
this hall the courthouse where tenants under the crown came to pay their fines. 

The upper part is now used as a 
chapel and schoolhouse, where 
services are maintained by the 
Bunyan Meeting of Bedford, of 
which Dr. Brown has been pastor 
for thirty-two years. 

As we climbed the worn 
steps of the steep, narrow stair- 
way and entered the ancient 
hall where Bunyan's voice had 
sounded two and a half centuries 
ago, a beautiful scene presented 
itself. The ladies of the parish 
had tastefully festooned the heavy 
Bunyan's Cottage, Eistcw. oakcn bcams, bearing traces of 

Perpendicular carving, with delicate green vines and wild flowers and loaded tables 
with heaping baskets of great luscious strawberries and other food, to which we did 
ample justice, though it was less than three hours since breakfast. Happening to 
discover that it was the birthday of our genial host, three rousing cheers were given 
in his honor, and after the 
meal he held us spellbound 
with an inimitable address 
on the romance and his- 
tory of the neighborhood. 
He related an amusing an- 
ecdote of a person who 
once mistook him for the 
author of " Pilgrim's Prog- 
ress " and asked if he had 
written any books since 
that! 

A visit to the parish 
church followed. The fine 
Norman arches still rerhain 
of the original edifice, which is surrounded by picturesque, ivy-covered ruins of the old 
monastic buildings. The house of the abbey must have been new when Bunyan 
was a boy and altogether the most imposing he had ever beheld. He would see it 




Ttie Moot Hall, Elstow, 



tEbe JSooh ot tbe iptlgrtmage 




Ube BMlgrlms in JSeMorb 




ELSTOW. The Village Green. — "The House Beauliful." — The Chutch. 



tibe Booft of tbe pilgrimage 

plainly as he came across the fields to church, and undoubtedly this suggested the 
idea of his House Beautiful, which is described in the Progress as a little apart from 
the wayside. As we traversed this very pathway, the June sunlight flecking the 
meadows wherein sheep were quietly grazing, and listened to the inspiring words of 
our Greatheart, we seemed to be on the Delectable Mountains and could almost see 

Over the river and in at the gate, 

Where for weary pilgrims the angels wait. 

Returning to Bedford another ovation awaited us in the lecture hall of Bunyan 
Meeting, where a bountiful repast was served and accompanied by the usual speech- 
making. The massive bronze doors of this edifice are quite as beautiful as those on 
the Baptistery at Florence, which Michael A.ngelo declared worthy to be the gates 
of Paradise. These consist of ten panels, illustrating scenes from the Progress, and 
were a gift from the Duke of Bedford at a cost of over eight thousand dollars. One 
panel represents Slothful and his companions resting on 
the ground in attitudes of indescribable laziness. Here, 
too, we saw many interesting relics, among them Bunyan's 
will and an old oaken door belonging originally to the 
county jail in which he was imprisoned. 

Bedford is also famous for being the residence of the 
great prison philanthropist, John Howard, a statue of 
whom stands in one of the squares. It is a curious cir- 
cumstance that of the twelve ministers who have served 
this church, which was founded in 1650, during the Com- 
monwealth, seven have borne the cognomen of John. 
Howard's name is further immortalized by being attached 
Rev. John Thompson. ^^ j.j^g church of which Rev. John Thompson is pastor, 

and the good people of this parish, not to be outdone by Dr. Brown, entertained 
us at afternoon tea in their pretty chapel, specially carpeted and furnished, and 
charmingly decorated with flowers. Between whiles some of us took a row on the 
" Ouse's silent tide," and others passed an hour as the guests of the two Mrs. Rose 
in their lovely gardens. How the English do revel in flowers, and how little the 
ordinary tourist knows of the beautiful home life that goes on behind the high brick 
walls which invariably enclose their gardens ! Among our pleasantest memories are 
the tea drinkings and social converse within those green bowers filled with the fra- 
grance of roses. As Dr. Brown aptly remarked : " Such visits are the best of treaties^ 
stronger than armaments, and perpetual sureties of peace between the two great 
English-speaking nations." And among the cherished souvenirs which several of 
the party carried away from Elstow, that " quaint, quietly nestling place, with an 
old-world look upon it," were copies of Dr. Brown's Life of John Bunyan with the 
author's autograph inscribed on the fly leaf. 

It was one of the days when all our hearts were touched with poetic feeling, 

76 




^be pilgrims in Be&forb 

but to Miss Burnham only was given the inspiration of poetic expression in this 
graceful farewell to him who was both Greatheart and Interpreter on this memorable 
occasion. With characteristic modesty the hastily scribbled verses were tucked into 
his hand as we separated at the railroad station, and how we gained possession of 
them is " another story ! " 

Good-by ! good-by ! to pick and choose 
In courtly phrase our tongues refuse, 
The homely words of wont and use 
Are all we try. 

Good-by ! good-by ! we may not stay : 
We touch your hand and turn away, 
, But you have touched our hearts to-day. 

Good-by ! good-by ! 



Dr. Brown, in the course of his address in the 
Moot Hall, said : — 

John Bunyan, who was born in 1628 and died in 
1688, lived through sixty years of a memorable time in 
English history, and in those sixty years he wrote some- 
thing lilfe sixty books. While some bore the stamp of 
his genius, if there were three which stood out pre- 
eminently as works of genius, he should say they were 
the " Grace Abounding," " The Holy War," and " The 
Pilgrim's Progress." " Grace Abounding " is a marvel- 
ous record of religious experience, and they could 
hardly reahze how Bunyan came to write the " Pilgrim " 
until they had read the other work. Dr. Duncan, of 
Edinburgh, used to tell his students that there were 
three great books of religious experience, Augustine's 
" Confessions," Halljurton's " Memoirs," and Bunyan's 
" Grace Abounding," but that the tinker's book was the 
greatest of the three. One could not read it without 
feeling that it was written as with a pen of fire. It 
depicted the marvelous struggle of the soul through 
darkness up to light. The " Holy War " was a record 
of Christian experience of a later time, as was also " The 
Pilgrim's Progress." Bunydn's books went straight to 
the hearts of other people because they came straight 
from his own heart. He Was his own pilgrim, and 
knew what it was to go through the experience which 
he had himself related, but if his " Pilgrim's Progress " 
was a dream it was a very wide-awake one. Even 
a man like George Jacob Holyoake said that it was a 
book which was homely without being vulgar, devout 
without being fanatical, and pointed to other worlds 



without ceasing to be human in this. . . . After dwell- 
ing at length upon the teachings and happy inspirations 
of Bunyan and his works, Dr. Brown concluded with 
the following lines, which appeared in Punch in 1874: 

To deal with the past is of small concern; 

That light for the day's life is each day's need, 

That the Tinker-Teacher has sown his seed; 

And we want our Bunyan to show the way 

Through the Sloughs of Despond that are round us 

to-day; 
Our guide for straggling souls to wait 
And lift the latch of the wicket gate. 
The churches now debate and wrangle. 
Strange doubts theology entangle; 
Each sect to the other doth freedom grudge. 
Archbishop asks ruling of a judge. 
Why comes no pilgrim with eye of fire, 
To tell us where pointeth Minster spire; 
To show — though critics may sneer and scoff — 
The path to " The Land that is very far off " .-' 
The People are weary of vestment vanities, 
Of litigation about inanities; 
And fain would listen, O Preacher and Peer, 
To a voice like that of this Tinker-Seer, 
Who guided the Pilgrim up, beyond, 
The Valley of Death and the Slough of Despond, 
And Doubting Castle and Giant Despair, 
To those Delectable Mountains fair. 
And over the River, and in at the Gate, 
Where for weary Pilgrims the Angels wait. 



^be ipilorims in OLonbon an^ IReigate 




iHE Hotel Cecil on Victoria Embankment was the 
caravansary at which rooms were reserved for 
Tlie Congregationalist'' s party while in London, 
and never were plain pilgrims more sumptuously 
housed. The view from the balcony on the 
riverside at night was simply entrancing. Just 
across the green stretch of gardens rolled the 
Thames, twinkling with lights from the lazy, 
lumbering barges, and the fussy, flying steamers. 
To the right loomed up the majestic towers of 
Westminster and the Parliament Houses, while 
on the Surrey side rose the ghostly towers of 
Lambeth Palace. Away round the crescent to 
St. Paul's on the left was one unbroken sweep of bridges, moving vehicles, glimmer- 
ing lanterns of all colors, and forests of shipping, making, in the weird moonlight, a 
scene of unparalleled beauty. The hotel was opened only last May, has more than a 
thousand rooms, and is superb in all its appointments. During our stay the proprie- 
tors kept the Stars and Stripes flying from the cupola. The site is historic, the 
original house being built by Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, Queen Elizabeth's 
famous secretary. From here she passed along the Strand 
to St. Paul's, to return thanks for the vanquishment of the 
Armada by her hardy sailors. 

Sharp, indeed, was the contrast between this palatial 
pile and the places we visited the day after our arrival, 
under the guidance of Rev. Andrew Mearns, secretary of 
the London Congregational Union, and Rev. William Mot- 
tram, who has made a study of sites connected with Non- 
conformist history. The party filled two large " breaks," 
with four prancing horses attached to each, and attracted 
no small degree of attention as we drove through " this 
grand, imperial town," halting at places where our fathers in 

i> ' V t> r , . ,. Rev. Wm. Mottram. 

the faith languished in filthy prisons or gave up their lives 

at the stake. Two of the jails Dickens has immortalized in " David Copperfield " and 
" Little Dorrit." Not a vestige of one remains, and the other is now a tin-plate fac- 
tory. We passed the old Tabard Inn of Chaucer's day, now a corner gin palace, and 
explored the gigantic modern brewery where once the bishops of Winchester had 
their palace. To it was attached the Clink Prison, whence the noble army of 

78 




Zhc pilgrims in Xonbon 

martyrs went forth to the flames in Smithfield. An overwhelming sense of the 
preciousness of our Congregational history possessed us as we saw where Penry was 
hanged, when we stood within the Pilgrim Fathers' Church in Southwark, founded in 
martyrs' blood in 1592, and when, at the close of the day, we came to the beautiful 




Memorial Hall, occupying the site of Fleet Prison, in' whose foul cells many Protes- 
tants and Nonconformists were confined in the days of the Tudors and Stuarts. 

And what a meeting we had there ! Dr. Guinness Rogers presided and alluded 
to the defeat in Parliament, that very day, of the Education Bill. Hugh Price 



Ube Book of tbe pilgrimage 




Hughes, when speaking of it, awakened the enthusiasm of his listeners, but when he 
pointed to the Union Jack and the Stars and Stripes everywhere intertwined about the 
room and exclaimed, "That flag and that must never meet on a field of blood!" the 
burst of prolonged applause was thrilling in its intensity, the audience springing up 
and shouting with uncontrolled enthusiasm. Mr. Whittemore made the introductions 
in inimitable fashion, each pilgrim rising in response to his or her name. Occasional 
slips of the tongue, like calling for Miles Standish in place 
of Mr. Littlefield, his lineal descendant, caused much mer- 
riment. Ian Maclaren was expected to be present, but was 
detained in Wales, so sent a letter. Among the guests 
whose presence was felt to be a special compliment was 
Thomas H. Gill, author of the noble hymn, "We come 
unto our fathers' God." He is a man of benign learning, 
nearly blind, but so interested in The Pilgrimage that he 
allowed his weight of years to be no hindrance to being 
present. Fine music, an hour of social intercourse, and 
light refreshments constituted other features of this de- 
lightful reception. 

If we did less justice than usual to the delicious bread, 
butter, strawberries, and beverages, it was because we had 
just come from a tea in the chapter house of St. Paul's, 
as guests of the archdeacon. Dr. Sinclair, who had previously conducted us through 
the cathedral. He reminds one of Phillips Brooks in his tolerant spirit, as well as 
in his magnificent physique. This was apparent when he said to Dr. Newman Hall, 
as we sipped our tea in the old oak-paneled room, " If the laws and customs of our 
church allowed, I should be only too happy to invite my friend here to preach in 
St. Paul's." No other ecclesiastical building in London is 
so well frequented, the audiences each week day ranging 
from four hundred to seven hundred, and on Sunday even- 
ings they reach five thousand. We were impressed when 
we attended service earlier in the afternoon with both 
the size and the character of the congregation, a large 
proportion from the humbler classes in society being 
present. After meeting Dr. Sinclair the secret of his in- 
fluence was understood. One of the exceptional advan- 
tages which we are enjoying on this trip is the contact 
with leaders of thought like himself, who intersperse with Archdeacon smciair. 

their valuable talk on history or architecture a vast amount 

of pertinent comment on present-day problems. The outlook on the social and indus- 
trial conditions of England and America to-day, as seen from the standpoint of earnest 
preachers, both within and without the Establishment, is an education in itself. 

At Westminster Abbey, too, storied windows, sculptured marbles, royal tombs, 




"Gibe pilgrims in bonbon 




Hbe JSook ot tf3e iPilgrimage 




Zbc pilgrims in Xon&on 

and historic monuments were interpreted to us in a fasliion 
unknown to Baedeker by Dean Bradley, who conducted 
us first to the Jerusalem Chamber. As we sat in the 
mellow afternoon sunshine around the table where the 
Revision Committee met in 1870 and where the Assembl)' 
of Divines, after five and a half years, formulated their 
famous catechism, the long procession of sovereigns, from 
William the Conqueror to Victoria, who have gone out 
from this building to their coronation seemed to pass in 
review before us. We saw, in imagination, the death of 
Henry IV before the ancient fireplace, so dramatically por- 
trayed by Shakespeare ; and as we followed our genial 
and fascinating host through chapel, chapter house, and 
cloister of this British Walhalla, the very dead seemed to 
become alive through the realism of his descriptions. In the chapel of Henry VII 
the tombs of the two queens, Mary and Elizabeth, divided, yet side by side, taught 
its own impressive lesson. Although one life went out " on the black-draped scaf- 
fold," and the other "broke on old age's wheel," yet both indeed 

Felt the thorns in the rim of the crown 
Far more than the sweep of the ermine 
Or the ease of the regal down. 





Zbc JSool? of tbe Ipilgrtmage 





B. Meye 



Naturally our interest centered 
around tombs and effigies of the 
Tudor and Stuart sovereigns, 
and the dean's delightfully sym- 
pathetic allusions to Pilgrim and 
American history were not the 
least acceptable part of his in- 
formal lecture and eloquent 
comments. 

Another enjoyable occasion 
was a restful afternoon tea at 

Christ Church, by invitation of p, Newman Haii. 

Rev. F". H. Meyer and Dr. New- 
man Hall. It was a thoughtful courtesy, after a most fatiguing day, to omit speech- 
making and allow us the simple "fellowship of kindred minds." So we broke bread 
together and mingled our prayers and songs in the daintily decorated chapel where 
Mr. Meyer, on different days in the week, meets various groups of' people, the Boys' 
Brigade at one time, the mothers at another, and so on through the network of activ- 
ities of this flourishing church, to which, on Sunday evening, workingmen flock by 
the hundreds. "There is where I get my inspiration when I enter the pulpit," said 
the pastor, as we stood in the little entrance room, fragrant with memories of 
Rowland Hill. And he pointed to a photograph of Dr. A. J. Gordon on one side 
and to a frame on the other inclosing a leaf from the notebook of McCheyne 
Between these two he would pass to his own wonderful ministry from the pulpit 
occupied nearly forty years by Newman Hall. 

Among purely social courtesies extended to us was a garden party at The Firs, 
the home of Mr. and Mrs. Halley Stewart, members of Dr. Guinness Rogers' 
church in Clapham. By a happy coincidence the church was celebrating its two 
hundred and fiftieth anniversary, and we had an opportunity to meet many eminent 
Nonconformists. Tables with refreshments were spread under the trees on the 
spacious lawn, and a party of 
boys from the Spurgeon Or- 
phanage furnished charming 
music with hand bells. Mr. 
Stewart is an ex-member of 
Parliament and holds quite pro- 
gressive views on all social 
questions. Both he and his 
accomplished wife, by using 
their beautiful house and 
grounds in behalf of the sick, 
the poor, and unfortunate, are 
84 





Halley Stewart 



Halley Stewart, Esq. 



xrbe IPUgrtms in Xon5on 

fine exponents of the creed that wealth should be used for the blessing of 
others. 

One of several unexpected pleasures during our stay in London was an invita- 
tion to breakfast with Lady Henry Somerset at Reigate Priory. Plans for sight- 
seeing in the great metropolis were gladly abandoned for such a rare privilege, 
and an hour's railroad ride brought us to the historic spot. We were cordially wel- 
comed by her ladyship, by our own distinguished countrywoman, Miss Willard, and 
her secretary, Miss Gordon, in the grand entrance hall. After being escorted by 
them through several rooms on the ground floor, an elegant breakfast was served in 
the wainscoted dining-room, which opens by French windows on to the lawn. The 




The Pdory, Reigate. 

scheme of decoration in this room is singularly effective, the richly carved oak 
panels having been brought from an old monastery in Venice. Above the wainscot 
was a projecting shelf ornamented with jars of costly faience, once the property of 
Venetian monks and the repository for their drugs, the Latin names of which were 
curiously inwrought in the ware. The crystal chandelier depending from the ceil- 
ing was also Venetian, of exquisite coloring and marvelous delicacy. Three tables 
were required for our party, a large round one in the center, magnificently decorated 
with La France roses, and two small ones at one side. 

After breakfast our gracious hostess again conducted us through the rest of the 
house and over the extensive grounds. Many of the trees were planted by Sir John 
Evelyn, the accomplished writer whose book entitled " Sylvia " was famous in its 



^be Boo\^ of tbe pilgrimage 

day. By his knowledge and enthusiasm he attracted the attention of the entire 
nation to the importance of planting trees. Near the house stands the chapel in 
which Lady Henry conducts daily service for the household. The inscription over 
the doorway is copied from one on the Taj Mahal and reads : " This world is a 
bridge, pass thee over it but build not on it. This world is one hour, give its min- 
utes to thy prayers, for the rest is unseen." The Priory is a perfect treasure house 
of rare old portraits, wood carvings, tapestries, armor, statuary, plate, and all that 
goes with an inheritance of noble birth and great wealth. In the drawing-room is 
Anne Whitney's noble bust of Miss Willard. 

The history of the place dates back to the days of Magna Charta, and it is believed 
that the prior and monks who helped the illiterate barons prepare that immortal 
document carried on the work in caves still to be seen near by. An ancient tithing 
barn, between four and five ■ hundred years old, is pre- 

served as an interesting ^^^K^^ relic, for here a tenth of 

the produce was brought by ^f^^^B ^^^^ farmers of the sur- 

rounding community to the Wg ^ a monks as their portion. 

The place is also full of A^ J^Blfe. literary interest. Usher's 

famous Chronology was |M» -m^^^Kk written at the Priory, where 

he died. He was afterward I^^L^^^^V buried in Westminster 

Abbey. Not far off are the ^^^K^^^B^ homes of George Meredith, 

the novelist, a n d Grant ^^mK/l^^ Allen, the brilliant essayist. 

Lady Henry inherits Rei- gate from her distinguished 

ancestor, Lord Somers, a '"""'^ """'' ^°""""^'' marble bust of whom, in 

his official robes, stands at the great entrance to the House of Commons. He was 
the noblest and most influential patron of letters in his day. 

But the place of all others which impressed us most, as Christian pilgrims, was 
when we stood with reverent feet beneath the tree where Lady Henry went through 
that wonderful subjective experience in the garden of Reigate, which changed the 
whole tenor of her life and placed her in the vanguard of modern reformers. Lhitil 
that memorable hour beneath the elm tree in 1885, when she heard a voice 
distinctly say to her, " My child, act as if I were and thou shalt know I am," she 
had mingled freely in the fashionable and aristocratic society of London, although 
she herself affirms : " I have never been a worldly woman. I never saw the day that 
I would not gladly have left parks and palaces for fields and woods." She had been 
reading books more or less skeptical, and was brooding over those deep questions of 
life and duty which come to every thoughtful soul, when this voice of God spoke to 
her inmost spirit. Rising from her rustic seat, she walked to the Priory, and sitting 
by the window in the twilight pondered the meaning of the message. That evening 
she took her long neglected New Testament and read the gospel of John at a sitting. 
The sweet and holy revelations of that hour wrought a marked transformation in her 
character, and from that time onward her life has been consecrated to noble ends. 

The Voice heard under the elm is still leading her up the heights of even larger 



Ube pilgrims in bonbon 



usefulness in connection with her latest scheme, the Industrial Farm Home in 
Uuxhurst. An estate of one hundred and eighty acres has been secured near 
Reigate by the British Woman's Christian Temperance Union, where habitual 
women inebriates can be treated. There are little groups of cottages in six different 
settlements. On the theory that inebriety is a moral disease and to be treated as 
such, six patients are placed in each cottage under the care of an experienced nurse. 
This experiment in trying to check the increase of drunkenness among women is 
attracting much attention in England, and an effort is being made to secure an 
appropriation from government for the farm colony. 

Still another unexpected favor was the invitation, accompanied by complimen- 
tary tickets for the best seats in the house, from Wilson Barrett, to see his remarkable 
play, "The Sign of the Cross." It was really a sermon on the stage, showing 
the simple, reverent lives of 
the early Christians against the 
lurid background of Nero's 
court. Barrett himself person- 
ates a young Roman prefect 
who becomes a follower of Jesus 
from seeing the singular loveli- 
ness of Mercia's character. 
She is one of the Christian 
maidens imprisoned for their 
faith, and the part is played by 
Maud Jeffries with delicate re- 
serve and deep religious feeling. 
The two martyrs go hand in 

Wilson Bar,e«, Esq, , , - ■ , ( ■ ^'"' "="" ''^*'""- 

hand to their doom, preferrmg 
death to a denial of their Saviour, with a sublimity of faith that is most impressive. 
Very sweet and tender, too, are the scenes where the Christians meet for worship in 
dungeons or solitary places, and the whole drama deepened our sense of what the 
Pilgrim Fathers must have endured in the way of persecution only a few centuries 
later. 

On Sunday we enjoyed the novelty of hearing a sermon in the evening specially 
addressed to ourselves by one of London's most famous preachers. Dr. Joseph 
Parker, whose eloquence and originality attract immense crowds to the City Temple. 
In Islington, also, at the church to which the late Dr. Allon ministered, the services 
were arranged with special reference to our presence in the city by the present 
pastor, Rev. William H. Harwood. Dr. Richardson, of the party, preached in the 
evening for Dr. Guinness Rogers' people in Clapham, and during the afternoon 
several pilgrims interested in social problems visited the People's Palace and investi- 
gated the Whitechapel precincts. 

Not least among the unusual courtesies extended during our stay was the 





tTbe Booh of tbe pilgrimage 



permission, for gentlemen only, to attend sessions of the House of Commons 
and House of Lords secured by The Congregationalist through the courtesy of the 
Speaker of the House and Gentleman Usher of the Black 
Rod. It was doubtless a rare privilege for them to see the 
faces of party leaders whose names are as familiar as those 
of our own Congressmen, but the ladies bewailed the re- 
strictions which kept them out of the Lower House. We 
might, it is true, have gone into the House of Lords and 
heard a debate on the deceased wife's sister's bill, which 
has come up in Parliament periodically since 1842, but we 
preferred a live issue ! Besides, we remembered the witty 
saying that it is so difficult to hear in the House of Lords 
that members go out and buy an evening paper in order 
to learn what the debate is about. However, we all had a 
most enriching five days in London, " the buskined stage 
of history . . . the heart, the center of the living world." 




The Pilgrimaoe Party had the pleasure of again meeting Mr. Gill, the poet mentioned in the account of 
the Memorial Hall meeting, at the celebration in Clainsborough. Referring to that occasion. The Christian 
IVoriii said: "An interesting figure at Gainsborough on Monday was that of the venerable hymn-writer and 
student, Thomas Hornblower Gill, with his snow-white hair and impressive face. Though approaching his eigh- 
tieth year and apparently nearly blind, he evidently shared with keen enjoyment the spirit of the day. Two of 
his hymns were included in the program of the proceedings. Mr. Gill was once described by Dr. Freeman Clarke 
as ' a more intellectual Charles Wesley.' " 

The following hymn was sung at the corner-stone ceremony at Gainsborough and also at tlie impressive 
meeting held in " The Old Meeting House," Norwich, the last night before the party left England : — 



We come unto our fathers' God; 

Their Rock is our Salvation : 
The Eternal Arms, their dear abode. 

We make our habitation : 
We bring Thee, Lord, the praise they brought; 
We seek Thee as Thy saints have sought 

In every generation. 

The Fire Divine, their steps that led. 

Still goeth bright before us; 
The Heavenly Shield, around them spread, 

Is still high holden o'er us: 
The grace those sinners that subdued, 
The strength those weaklings that renewed. 

Doth vanquish, doth restore us. 

The cleaving sins that brought them low 

Are still our souls oppressing : 
The tears that from their eyes did flow. 

Fall fast, our shame confessing : 



As with Thee, Lord, prevailed their cry. 
So our strong prayer ascends on high 
And bringeth down thy blessing. 

Their joy unto their Lord we bring; 

Their song to us descendeth : 
The Spirit Who in them did sing 

To us His music lendeth. 
His song in them, in us, is one; 
We raise it high, we send it on — 

The song that never endeth ! 

Ve saints to come, take up the strain. 

The same sweet theme endeavor ! 
Unbroken be the Golden Chain; 

Keep on the song forever ! 
.Safe in the same dear dwelling place. 
Rich with the same eternal grace. 

Bless the same boundless giver 1 

— Thomas Hornblower Gill. 




PriorogyaphiJ htj Flliott .t Fry, I.mdm. 



The New V,or,d Pilorims at T' •- F 

with their Hosts. Mr, and Mrs. Halley Sti 




pham Park, London, 20 June, IE 

. and Dr. Guinness Roesrs. 



Zbc BMlgrims in Canterburi? 




[UCH an embarrassment of riches awaited us in this ancient city, 
seat of the metropolitan see of all England, that one's pen 
halts in the effort to give any adequate account of our sojourn 
there. Rev. W. E. Stephenson and others met us at the station 
and conducted us to the Congregational Church, which was 
packed with one of the most cordial audiences we have met 
anywhere. While being shown to the front seats reserved for 
our use, the familiar strain of "America" sounded from the 
organ, which is the finest in the city, with the exception of 
that in the cathedral. The church, founded in 1645, has a 
noble history. For some time it celebrated the Lord's Supper 
in the chapter house of the cathedral, being granted the use of 
-^^-.^-^,. '.:^^ the sequestrated communion plate. The members were scat- 
tered by the persecution following the famous- — or infamous — 

Conventicle Acts, the pastor and many of his flock fleeing to Holland. 

After brief religious exercises an elaborate address of welcome, beautifully 

engrossed, was read and then presented to Dr. Dunning. This was signed by the 

ministers of all the Free Churches in Canterbury, including 

the officers of the old Huguenot church, whose services 

have been held in the crypt of the cathedral for three 

hundred years. 

"We felt we must do something," said the chairman, 

" to signalize the event of your visit, and decided to greet 

you with this address from brothers and sisters of the same 

belief, the same country, and the same speech." What 

more graceful or fitting welcome could have been offered ? 

Rev. Morton Dexter voiced our appreciation in a brief, 

earnest reply, and there was opportunity, when coming out, 

'■ ■' '^ '■ ■' .. Rev. W. E. Stephenson. 

to exchange hand-clasps with these warm-hearted friends 

and give individual expression to our sense of obligation for their great kindness. 

Next we were whisked off to St. Martin's, a quaint little edifice perched on a 
high hill in the suburbs, down which descended the band of Roman monks, bearing 
aloft the cross and chanting their Christian songs in a strange land. For here 
Augustine came to convert heathen England, and here Queen Bertha had a chapel 
fitted up for Christian worship, this being the condition of her coming to England. 
Her pagan husband, King Ethelred, was won to her faith and baptized in the old 
stone font still to be seen, so that the very stones are eloquent in history if not in 




Ubc Boo\i of tbe pitorimage 

sermons. Roman tiles of a dull red color are plainly discernible amid the shale 
and rubble, and the impression of antiquity is deepened by the old yew trees in the 
churchyard and the ivy-covered tower. The fascinating story of those far-off days 
and the subsequent history as told by the rector, Rev. L. J. White-Thomson, was a 
literary treat never to be forgotten. As we came away we noticed Dean Alford's 
grave with the touching inscription, "The inn of a traveler on his way to Jerusalem." 
After a substantial luncheon at the County Hotel we wended our way to the 
hoary cathedral, being received first in the deanery gardens by Dean Farrar, with 
Mrs. Farrar and others of the household, including Dorothy, the little queen of 




hearts, a winsome granddaughter of two or three summers. Would that it were 
possible to reproduce the scene as we grouped ourselves there in nature's court 
around our prince of hosts and listened to his fervent words. The keynote of his 
utterance was in these sentences : "Nor is my welcome to you less warm because 
you are Congregationalists. We differ in our views about ecclesiastical polity. We 
agree in our acceptance of eternal verities. That about which we differ is evanescent 
and, by comparison, infinitesimal ; that on which we are agreed is essential and 
eternal." 

It was like walking in a dream to follow him afterward through the gardens of the 
old monastery, to enter Queen Bertha's gate and traverse the ver}' path of Chaucer's 
story-telling cavalcade. But when we went into the cathedral itself, a huge and 
complicated pile of masonry, exhaustless in its historical interest, and listened to the 



Ube IPilgrims in Ganterburp 



matchless word-painting of tlie dean, we 
felt that we had reached the acme of travel- 
ing privileges. It was scarcely less a favor 
to have the companionship of the eminent 
antiquary, Canon Scott Robinson, who 
shared the duties of guide. Whittier's sug- 
gestive line. 

We. too, are heirs of Ruimymede, 

came instinctively to mind as we halted at 
the tomb of Stephen Langton, the great 
promoter of the struggle which ended in 
obtaining the Magna Charta. 

We thought of the splendid pageants, 
the royal marriages, coronations, funerals, 
and processions of foreign kings and am- 
bassadors which those crumbling walls had 
witnessed. But two spots in particular laid 
hold upon our imagination — the shrine of 
Thomas a Becket and the mas:nificent tomb 




Dorothy at Queen Bertha's Gate. 




The Deanery, Canterbury. 



Uhc asooft of tbe pilgrimage 




Ube pilgrims in Canterbuvii 



of the Black Prince. The former, it is true, is leveled to the ground, but the pave- 
ment stained with the blood of the ambitious prelate remains, and in storied 
windows above may still be read the legend of miracles wrought by St. Thomas in 
days when king and peasant trod those aisles 

The holy blissful martyr for to seeke. 

The stone steps are hollowed by knees of those who knelt in penitence and prayer, 
or like Henry II "offered rich silks and wedges of gold " in expiation for sin. What 
a travesty upon the text of the archbishop's Christmas sermon, "Peace on earth, 
good will to men," preached only the Sunday before, was this unholy murder whose 
echoes are heard across seven centuries ! 

But the devouring hand of time has not despoiled Edward's tomb of its essen- 



tial features, and we thought 
hundred and twenty years 
of the Plantagenets lay 
minster and was buried in 
the church he had loved 
for his last resting place, 
ports the canopy are a few 
the crimson velvet surcoat, 
lets which he wore in battle, 
belonging to the sword 
with having taken away, 
his victories lies the prince 
with knightly spurs at his 




of that other June day, five 
earlier, when the greatest 
dying in the palace at West- 
pomp in the undercroft of 
from childhood and chose 
On the iron rod which sup- 
faded and tattered relics, 
the helmet, cap, and gaunt- 
and the red leather scabbard 
which Cromwell is charged 
Here under the symbols of 
clad in complete armor, 
feet, his hands clasped in 
golden lilies of France 
the monument is a French 



prayer and on his breast the 

mingled with the lions of England. At the base of 

inscription giving his titles in full. 

All the romantic incidents connected with his marriage to the "Fair Maid of 
Kent " came freshly home to us on being told that in the cathedral treasury is still 
preserved 'the original charter by which he endowed two chantries in the crypt to 
celebrate this episode in his eventful life. The bill legalizing the union with his 
beautiful widowed cousin was issued by the Pope on condition that these chantries 
should be founded, and in the days of Erasmus they so glittered with jewels that he 
cried out with wonder at the display of more than royal splendor. These vanished 
long ago and there is scarcely a trace of color or gilding now to be seen on the 
vaulted roof. 

The archbishop's throne was another object which set in motion a train of 
historic reflections. Ninety-three primates of all England have sat in this ancient 
chair, but the tombs of only fifteen are to be seen in the cathedral, for since the 
Reformation burial has been elsewhere. Will the day ever come when the old-time 
custom of interring the archbishops in their own cathedral will be restored ? There 



Zhc Booli of tbe pilgrimage 

was also pointed out a low mausoleum of gray stone in which are the ashes of John 
Morton, the primate in whose household that handsome, manly boy, Thomas More, 
spent part of his youth, and in the prime of life was beheaded on Tower Hill. The 
head was set upon a pole on London Bridge, but a loving daughter, by bribing the 
executioner, secured the precious relic and had it buried in St. Dunstan's in Canter- 
bury. Thus wherever our eyes wandered there were suggestions of strife and 
cruelty, of decay and death, which vaguely depress the spirit. The resplendent 
shrine of Becket utterly destroyed, his bones burnt and scattered to the four winds, 
the lights quenched in jeweled lamps, the sanctuary turned into a stable by Crom- 
well's rude hands, schism in the body of Christ itself — what is the lesson to be 
learned from events such as these ? Pessimism may have its ready reply, but opti- 
mism discerns that the imperishable riches of a Christian faith still glorify every 
part of the huge structure, and songs of pilgrims still reverberate among the lofty 
pillars and arches. This was our dominant thought on passing directly from our 
tour of inspection to the afternoon service conducted by the dean, when we joined 
our English friends in singing. 

We are not divided, 

All one body we. 
One in hope and doctrine, 

One in charity. 

After the service, by which we were all soothed and uplifted, some of the party 
were entertained at tea in the deanery, thus adding a crowning pleasure to a day of 
enjoyment along the highest levels. Ne.xt June the thirteen hundredth anniversary 
of the cathedral will be celebrated, and Dean Farrar has long been busy in making- 
suitable preparations for the august event. 




Fourteenth Century Pilgrims to Canterbury. 



^be ipilgrima in Boston 




OLERIDGE when asked which of Shake- 
speare's plays was the best replied, "The 
one you read last." The same principle 
applies to the places we are visiting on 
this marvelous pilgrimage. Every night 
we exclaim, " Surely, nothing can exceed 
to-day's experience ! " but the next morning 
we fare forth to new scenes equally inspir- 
ing. If our halt in a given city is for only 
a few hours, its hospitable citizens contrive 
to condense the 
enjoyment of days 
into that brief 
time. This was 
notably the case at Boston, that bustling borough on the 
banks of the Wash, which Baedeker styles as "perhaps 
chiefly interesting from its association with its famous 
namesake on the other side of the Atlantic." But we 
found it a spot of genuinely in- 
trinsic interest, and in few places 
have we been more profoundly 
stirred by associations with our 

-' Rev. David Barr.ett. 

early history. 

We have now become so accustomed to distinction 
that it no longer takes away our breath to be met at 
the station by civic and ecclesiastical dignitaries and car- 
ried off in triumph to guildhalls and cathedrals. Never- 
theless, "custom does not stale" nor time "wither the 
infinite variety" of either their welcome or our pleasure 
in being received. Enthusiasm, therefore, was at concert 
pitch when Rev. D. Barnett, Rev. W. Blackshaw, and 
others of the Free Churches greeted us as we stepped 
from the railway carriages and escorted us to the Peacock and Royal Hotel, where 
the mayor, the vicar, and other friends joined us at the substantial luncheon spread 
by mine host of this old tavern. For a wonder we had eaten only one breakfast 
since rising, consequently we were in prime condition to do justice to the tempting 
viands. The addresses which followed from Mayor Clarke, J. W. Smith, representing 





Ube Bool? of tbe pilgrimage 




the Nonconformist churches, and the vicar, Rev J. Stephenson, were more than ordi- 
narily cordial, and both Dr. Dunning and Hon. J. A. Lane made felicitous responses. 
These agreeable functions over, the party proceeded 

to St. Botolph, the noblest parish church in all England, 

which boasts 

The loftiest tower of Britain's isle 
In valle}' or on steep. 

It is modeled after the one which crowns Antwerp cathedral 
and looks forth "far over leagues of land and leagues of 
sea." When we reached the chancel all joined in singing 
the familiar hymn, 

O God, our lielp in ages past, 

and in repeating the Lord's Prayer, led by the vicar. The 
Rev. John Stephenson. focus of iutcrcst, howcvcr, was the Cotton Chapel, which 

has been restored by New England Bostonians in memory of John Cotton, who, 
when appointed vicar, was told by the Bishop of Lincoln that he was "a young 
man and unfit to be over such a factious people who were imbued with the Puritan 
spirit." How little the bishop dreamed that the youth would subsequently become 
famous as a Puritan of the Puritans ! Mr. G. S. W. Jebb, author of a delightful 
history of the church, explained its chief features, and a copy of the book was pre- 
sented to each of the party. 

A hurried visit followed to the old Guildhall which stands in a street containing 

the queerest of 
riverside ware- 
houses. Li the 
ancient court- 
room with its 
wagon roof, 
wainscoted 
walls, and list 
of mayors since 
1545, Brewster 
and his compan- 
ions were tried. 
We descended 
the narrow 
stairway down 
which the Pil- 
grims were con- 
ducted into the 
dark cells un- 




tlbe BMlgrims in JBoston 



derneath, where they were confined by English magistrates for attempting to leave 
their country after they had been harried out of it ! Only two of these gruesome 
chambers now remain. A mild sensation was created 
when our esteemed "lineal descendant," Dr. Robinson, 
was thrust into one of them by the military member of 
our party, General Wheeler, but his period of incarcera- 
tion was not long. The striking contrast between the 
spirit of the seventeenth and the nineteenth centuries 
was pertinently put by one of the local papers in this 

wise : " Very different 
was the reception of 
the modern pilgrims 
compared with the ex- 
periences of their an- 
cestors. As on that 
memorable day nearly 
three hundred years 
ago, they were some- 
what a spectacle of 
wonderment to the 
multitude. But in- 
stead of repairing privily to a lonely place by the 
tidal river they were driven publicly through the 
streets to the leading hostelry ; instead of arrest 
and ill treatment, they were met with nothing but 
kindness ; instead of a prison, a banquet. In one 
matter the visit resembled that of old days ; having 
once set foot in town, the visitors found it difficult 
to tear themselves away." 
Among the ten New England Bostonians in the party were some who could lay 
no claim to the distinction of having ancestors who came over in the Mayflower, 
and such felt a pardonable pride in the consciousness that here, at least, a link was 
established with the Puritan past in a common name for the two cities. 

Which binds with an atoning power 
Two great and kindred lands. 

Three hours was a meager amount of time to devote to such an interesting old city, 
but at the expiration of that time we were whirled off to Lincoln, richly laden with 
beautiful memories of St. Botolph's town. 



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^be pilgrims in lincoln 





URING the railroad journey of a little more than an hour to 
Lincoln we wondered if we could possibly absorb any more 
enjoyment that day. But the greeting at the station by Rev. 
J. D. Jones, the able pastor of the Newland Church, was 
irresistible, and after dinner at the White Hart Hotel we all 
promptly appeared at the County Assembly rooms for another 
demonstration fully equal to anything lavished upon us else- 
where. The mayor, Councilor E. Harrison, in the full splendor 
of his official robes, with the mayoress, ministers of all denom- 
inations, and prominent citizens, making 
a total of over three hundred persons, 
gathered in the handsomely decorated 
rooms for the usual round of speech- 
making, interspersed with music, refreshments, and that social 
intercourse which has given us such favorable opportunities 
for becoming better acquainted. with our English cousins. A 
fine large engraving of the Departure of the Pilgrims was 
placed among the flags and flowers. The formal address of 
welcome, read by Rev. Z. Robinson in behalf of the Lincoln 
Free Church Council, was inscribed on vellum, richly bound ^^^^ ^ ^ ^^^^^ 

in morocco leather, and bore the city arms with the motto, 

Floreat Linduin. This beautiful souvenir will undoubtedly 
be placed on exhibition in the Congregational Library at 
Boston. Dr. Dunning in his reply quoted most effectively 
a sonnet of T. B. Aldrich's, which had just appeared in 
the July Century, closing with this prophecy concerning 
the attitude of England and America: — 

Thy blood makes quick lier pulses, and some day 
Not now, yet some day, at thy soft behest. 
She at thy side shall hold the world at bay. 

The elegance of all its appointments and the high 
social standing of many of the guests mark this entertain- 
ment as among the finest arranged in our honor. An 
amusing little episode was when the mayor's chamberlain, 
an important functionary in a red coat with gilt buttons, 
who presented the guests as they entered, rapped us to order in the middle of the 
evening, ascended the platform and solemnly called out, "I claim your silence and 




Mayor of Lincoln 



tCbe pilgrims in ^Lincoln 



attention ! " We supposed this was the herald for something quite extraordinary, 
and were rather taken abacli when he held up to view a lost fan and asked for the 
owner. 

Sunday mercifully intervened before another week of social excitement, but two 
of the party. Rev. Messrs. Soule and Leete, preached in Lincoln pulpits, while Rev. 
L. L. Wirt was in great demand for Sunday-school addresses. As loyal Congrega- 
tionalists we have made it a point — and considered it a privilege — to attend Non- 
conformist churches in the morning. In the afternoon we have generally worshiped 
in the cathedrals. This happened to be Coronation Sunday, and the anthem appro- 
priate to the day was a notable feature 
of the evening service. As a few of 
us lingered to enjoy the magnificent 
organ music at the close, there tran- 
spired another of those pleasant sur- 
prises which have marked this trip 
from the outset. The sub-dean. Dr. 
Clements, who had previously sent us 
his card with the offer of any courtesy 
in his power, came forward and hospi- 
tably urged our going to the deanery 
close by to see the commanding view 
from the hill, on which portions of an 
old Roman wall are still in a good state 
of preservation. He then took us into 
the house, and again we had a glimpse 
of a lovely English home, with its in- 
describable air of repose and cultiva- 
tion. Our host manifested especial 
pride in calling attention to the old 
gallery staircase running around three 
sides of the entrance hall, also to the 
carved bookcase in the library which 

he had had made to order when a student at Oriel College, Oxford. As we entered 
the drawing-room an elderly lady of sweet and gracious mien advanced from a 
recessed window, the very place, she told us, where Bishop Paley was accustomed 
to sit when writing his "Evidences of Christianity." A pleasure analogous to 
this was a visit Monday morning to Monks' Manor, the elegant home of Joseph 
Ruston, D.L., a former M.P., who has a superb private art gallery, rich in paintings 
of the Rossetti school, which was freely opened for our inspection. 

The Monday morning service at the cathedral included a most intelligent render- 
ing of Mendelssohn's " If with all your hearts," by tenor solo and chorus, which was 
greatly enjoyed by the pilgrims, on account of whose presence the anthem had been 




ttbe JSooft of tbe ipilgrimage 




Ube pilgrims in Lincoln 



selected. After the service we examined in detail the unsurpassed beauties of the 
majestic edifice under the scholarly guidance of the sub-dean, who mentioned the 
fact, as particularly interesting to Puritans, that Cromwell's soldiers did not show 
their accustomed zeal in disfiguring the minster at Lincoln. This was explained on 
the ground of having a mayor in the height of the vandalism of those times who, 
though a Puritan himself, did not justify such outrageous manifestations of religious 
fervor. 

Among the points of special interest were the tombs of St. Hugh, the indus- 
trious pioneer of early English architecture, and of Remigius, the first bishop of 
Lincoln, who in 1075 began "a strong and fair church" 
which was "both pleasant to God's servants and, as the 
time required, invincible to his enemies." The angel choir 
which Freeman calls "one of the loveliest of human works," 
the chapter house of surpassing beauty, the monument of 
Queen Eleanor, lately restored by Mr. Ruston, and the fine 
old thirteenth century glass windows were other attractive 
features fluently described by the sub-dean. 

Not the least valued experience of the morning was 
the hour spent in the library with the cathedral librarian, 
Rev. A. Maddison. An original copy of Magna Charta was 
a document of absorbing interest, recalling 

With what an awful grace those barons stood 

^ , , .° ,_, , Sub-Dean Clements. 

In presence of the king at Runnymede, 

on that eventful June day six centuries agone, and wrested from his reluctant hand 
that great charter of human rights. The meaning of history presses upon us more 
and more as we pursue our pilgrim way and we find ourselves echoing the lamented 
laureate's lines : — 

Yet I doubt not thro' the ages one increasing purpose runs, 

And the thoughts of men are widened with the process of the suns. 




^be pilgrims in ipilavim %m\t> 

OWKVER much we have felt the precious- 
ness of our Congregational faith in other 
places, perhaps the most abiding impres- 
sion of its value came to us the day when 
we drove from Lincoln to Gainsborough. 
It was a glorious morning, the horses were 
m fine fettle and our route lay through a 
region replete in Nonconformist history. 
When we reached Gringley-on-the-hill a 
bevy of children waving a small American 
flag saluted us by the wayside. From this 
eminence the little town of Epworth, the 
cradle of Methodism, is plainly visible, and 
the entire landscape, with its wealth of 
green hedgerows, waving fields of grain brilliant with poppies, noble trees and wind- 
ing streams, was spread before us in a panorama of loveliness. 

With reverent feet we wended our way first to the old manor house in Scrooby, 
where Brewster was born. It is indeed one of the ironies of history, as Dr. John 
Brown points out, that the house where the archbishops of York had found a home 
for centuries, where Wolsey had lodged and from which Bishop Bonner had dated 
his letters, became for the Separatist church the house of God and the gate of 





The Approach to Scrooby. 

heaven. These great houses, surrounded by a moat, must have been very stately 
and beautiful in their palmy days. Probably nothing finer existed in the way of 
domestic architecture, but scarcely a vestige of their former grandeur now remains. 
It was difficult to imagine Elizabeth and other sovereigns halting here on their royal 
progress up to Scotland, or the great Wolsey spending weeks in retirement beneath 



tCbe ipitlgrims in ipllorim %nnt> 




its roof. But little cared we just then for the doings of kings and cardinals. The 
one grand figure which loomed up from the past was the elder of Plj^mouth Colony, 
whose memory we shall revere anew after standing on ground hallowed by his feet 
and within the humble parish church in which he was baptized. The baptismal font 
has been removed to the New England Church in Chicago, but the carved oak which 
formed the Brewsters' family pew and other objects of interest are still to be seen. 
They must have been people of good social standing, for William Brewster, as 




Zbc asooft of tbe BMlgrimage 



well as his father and grandfather, filled the office of postmaster in the old manor 
house, a position of no small honor in those times. Until the reign of Henry VIII 
there was no regular system of posts in England,[and for long after that the only four 
that were established were for the exclusive use of the sovereigns. 

Halting at Bawtry for a second breakfast, we pushed on next to Austerfield, the 
birthplace of William Bradford, and again the past wove its magic spell about us. 
Impressive, indeed, was the quaint little church with its old Norman font, used for 
a time as a pig trough, but reclaimed from such base uses not long ago by the parish 
vicar. The restorations now in progress will rescue the fine Norman arches from 
the modern wall built into them on one side of the church, and when the work is 
completed this ancient house of worship at Austerfield will be one of the interesting 
relics of the Norman period. 

The Bradfords, too, must have been well-to-do, for they belonged to that sturdy 
yeoman class which, in Elizabeth's reign, stood next to the 
gentry, and the future governor of Plymouth Colony was 
reared in a house which possessed a library of English and 
Latin books ; no insignificant sign of prosperity when books 
were rare and costly. One of the objects of peculiar interest 
which occupied our attention was the old register in the 
church which records his baptism on March 19, 1589. 

But the culminating point of all our journeying seemed 
to have been reached when we descended into the cellar 
of the humble Bradford cottage where, doubtless, the early 
Pilgrims convened to worship, as did the Christians of the 

first century in the Cata- 
combs. We can imagine 
with what heavy hearts 
plans may have been laid 
here for leaving the mother 
country. Fifteen of us, 
perhaps, crowded into the 
little cell-like inclosure, 
and we felt the presence 
of saints from the Celestial 
City as we sang, 

O God of Betliel, by whose hand 
Thy people still are fed, 

Who through this weary pil- 
grimage 
Hast all our fathers led, 

and the tender, fervent 
prayer of Dr. Richardson 




Ube pilorims in pilgrim Xan& 



■"-'■^TT 




Uhc JBooW of tbe pilgrimage 








.JM 



Record of Bcadfo 



Church in Austerfield. 



brought us still closer to the heart of the 

Eternal. 

A graceful feature of the drive that day 
was when we were arrested at a pretty cottage 
by the wayside, not with hostile intent, but to 
present each pilgrim with a basket filled with 
fresh roses and strawberries, and a bunch of 
forget-me-nots daintily laid on top. We were 
indebted to Mrs. G. S. Lister, of Finningley 
Park, for this graceful courtesy. Her thought- 
ful bounty provided the flowers and fruit 
which she sent thus to intercept us on our 
pilgrimage. How beautifully symbolic was 
the offering of all that has been done for us in 

This land of such dear souls, this dear, dear land. 
Dear for her reputation tlirough the world ! 

The flowers faded with the day, but the deed 
will be forever enshrined within our grateful 
hearts. 



Zbc BMlGrims in pilgrim Xan5 






Zbc 1Boo\i of tbe pilgrimage 




The Old Hall, Gainsborough. 




Zbc pilgrims in pilgrim Xan5 



These rich experiences of the morning formed a fitting prelude to the grand 
occasion in the afternoon at Gainsborough. This is an attractive old English town, the 
scene of " The Mill on the Floss," St. Oggs, along whose banks Tom and Maggie 
" wandered with a sense of travel," being none other than the Trent. The town 
was gaily decorated, and the British and American flags were everywhere displayed. 
The presence of many distinguished English guests, as well as Ambassador Bayard, 



drew a throng of 
neighboring towns, 
ing scene when the 
Council, on a raised 
the Town Hall wel- 
sador. The square 
full, the windows of 
were filled with 
shouts rent the air 
the address and re- 
W e then a d- 
cheon to the Old 
most picturesque 
kind that we have 
For several centu- 
dence of the lords 
there is reason to be- 
to which John Rob- 
held services there. 
Wesley preached in 
but the house ceased 
dwelling about one 
years ago. Within 
been restored by the 
Hickman Bacon, who claims descent from the 




7^- 



people from the 
and it was an impos- 
Urban District 
platform in front of 
corned the ambas- 
was packed solidly 
surrounding shops 
eager faces, and 
at the conclusion of 
spouses. 

journed for lun- 
Hall, one of the 
structures of its 
seen in all England, 
ries it was the resi- 
of the manor, and 
lieve that the church 
inson ministered 
It is certain that 
the banqueting hall, 
to be used as a 
hundred and fifty 
fifty years it has 
present owner, Sir 
reat Francis, and through whose 



^^i^y-yt^ 



hospitality we were permitted the rare privilege of feasting beneath its ancient 
roof. Oriental hangings adorned the walls, and ov^r the windows were curious 
armorial devices. Alderman Joseph Thompson, of Manchester, presided at the 
luncheon and proposed the first toast to the Queen. All rose and sang a verse of 
the national hymn, and in rising we heard murmurs from several loyal subjects 
of "The Queen, the Queen! God bless her, God bless her!" Earl Brownlow, in 
proposing the toast for the President of the United States, alluded felicitously 
to the historic event which had occasioned this international gathering, and spoke of 
his personal association with James Russell Lowell, when he was ambassador 
at the Court of St. James. He also quoted this apt after-dinner utterance made 
by Mr. Lowell when the American Rifle Team competed at Wimbledon : " If ever 



Zhe JSoofj of tbe pilgrimage 



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XI be pilgrims in iPtUjrim Xan& 



the riflemen of both nations sliould be fated to meet in battle, may God grant that 
the rifles of both nations may be turned in the same direction." The sentiment 
was enthusiastically applauded, thus giving fresh evidences of the strong anti-war 
feeling that has found expression on so many occasions since our arrival at Plym- 
outh. Another outburst of cheering reverberated along the oak gables of the Old 
Hall when Ambassador Bayard, in his reply, said with much 
fervor : " It means a great deal when we from both sides of 
the Atlantic meet together, and with all sincerity of feeling 
drink to the health and long life of the rulers of each of 
our countries. May the time never come when the health 
of the ruler of Great Britain and the health of the chief "* '■ 

magistrate of the United States may not be drunk with 
the same good feeling that we each and all of us do to-day." 
The next objective point was the site of the new John 
Robinson Memorial Church, whither we marched in a body, 
accompanied by civic authorities in official robes, denomi- 
national leaders in academic cap and gown, Sunday-school 
children with banners, and the Britannia band. The crowd had augmented, if pos- 
sible, and a passage for us was kept clear, not by armed sentinels, but by little girls 
holding a rope of ribbon. Rev. H. S. Griffiths, the pastor, who has worked hero- 
ically to secure the building now to be erected, had general charge of the services. 
Platforms were erected for the speakers and members of the Sunday-school, and 
Rev. J. Morlais Jones, chairman of the Congregational Union of England and Wales, 
presided. A feature of the devotional services was the singing of this hymn, written 
for the occasion by Rev. W. T. Matson, of Portsmouth : — 




H. S. Griffiths, 



Father, to thee this fane we raise, 
In memory of a sainted soul ; 
His mind was free, his heart was whole, 
Be thine the praise ! 
His witness to the truth and right 
Abides, a quenchless day-beam shed 
Upon us, from the fountain-head 
Of heaven's own light ! 

No menaces of hostile power 

Availed with him, to hold back aught 
The Word disclosed, or bind his thought 
Enchained an hour. 
And for his latest testament. 

He bade us keep an open mind. 
Assured the wealth Thy Word enshrined 
Might ne'er be spent. 



For him, and all who like him prest. 
Before us, toward the mark, be told 
Our God's high praises, while we hold 
Their memories blest ! 
Oh, may their mantle on us fall ! 
And may thy grace our souls endue, 
That we may live our lives as true, 
And free from thrall ! 

And from this house we build for God, 
Long may the glory of the Lord 
Shine out, and his victorious Word 
Sound forth abroad ; 
Battling with error, vice, and sin. 
Casting down every evil thing 
Abhorred of God, till Christ shall bring 
His kingdom in ! 



Ubc BQO\i of tbe pilgrimage 

The distinguished writer of religious verse, Marianne Farningham, who is rarely 
seen in public, occupied a seat on the platform, and her strong, sensitive face, framed 
in a wealth of gray hair, evinced a keen enjoyment of the exercises. These lines 
from one of her poems were not inappropriate to this gathering : — 

To-day the Lord's disciples serve in throngs. 

And they exult because of long-past night ; 
They sing triumphantly their victor songs. 

And push their way along new paths of light. 

Rev. Hugh Griffiths presented Mr. Bayard with a silver trowel, a gift from the 
Gainsborough church, ornamented with a design of the Mayflower, also a scene rep- 
resenting Robinson kneeling on the beach in prayer with his fellow pilgrims before 
leaving Delfshaven. With this beautiful implement he performed the ceremony of 
laying the corner stone. The difificulty of hearing in the open air detracted from the 
enjoyment of the ambassador's admirable speech, but fortunately it was printed in 
full in all the local papers. The dedicatory prayer — a remarkable and impressive 
utterance — was offered by Rev. W. J. Woods, after which Dr. Mackennal delivered 
a short address, and Rev. Morton De.xter spoke a few words as representative of the 
National Council of the American Congregational Churches. An enthusiastic mass 
meeting at Wesley Church in the evening, at which Albert Spicer, m.p., presided, and 
Dr. Guinness Rogers, Rev. C. A. Berry, Dr. Cyrus Richardson, and others spoke, 
closed the exercises of this pheriomenal day. 



A TOWN which carries the trace of its 
long growth and history like a millennial 
tree, and has sprung up and developed in 
the same spot between the river and the 
low hill from the time when the Roman 
legions turned their backs on it from the 
camp on the hillside, and the long-haiied 
sea kings came up the river and looked 
with fierce, eager eyes at the fatness of the 
land. In these words George Eliot de- 
scribed Gainsborough, the town of " The 
Mill on the Floss," to which she gave the 
name of St. Oggs, making reference also 
to that bit of its history which interests us 
most to-day, of the time when honest citi- 
zens lost all their possessions for conscience' 
sake, and went forth beggared from their 
native town. Here are houses standing now on 
which they turned their backs in sorrow, quaint gabled 
houses looking on the river, jammed between newer 
warehouses, and penetrated by surprising passages, 
which turn at sharp angles till they lead you out on a 
muddy strand, overflowed continually by the rushing 
tide! 




It was to this town that " New-World Pilgrims to 
Old-World Shrines " came on Monday, drawn thither 
by the fascination of a name, that of the man who, 
though he did not himself sail away to America in the 
Mayflower, was the teacher and inspirer of those 
who did. — Marianne Farning/iam, in Tlie Chrislian 
World. 



tCbe iPilgrims in pilgrim XanD 



The full text of the address delivered by Hon. T. F. Bayard, the American ambassador to the Court of St. 
James, in connection with laying the foundation stone of the John Robinson Memorial Church at Gainsborough, 
June 29, is given below : — 



We have gathered here — many of us from lands far 
distant and beyond the great seas, and many more from 
English homes closer to the scene — to lay the corner 
stone of a memorial church, which is intended to be 
a monument dedicated to the glory and worship of 
Almighty God and the loving memory of his faithful 
servant, John Robinson, of Gainsborough-upon-Trent, 
in northwestern Lincolnshire, who, not far from the spot 
where we stand, was born 320 years ago, and whose 
body was returned to dust at Leyden, in the Nether- 
lands, in the year of our Lord, 1625 — as is there re- 
corded upon the mortuary tablet in the Church of St. 
Peter and St. Paul in that city. Nothing, as it seems 
to me, could be less worthy and more unfit than to 
make this an occasion for the vainglory of rhetoric, and 
by interposing the commonplaces of oratory and verbal 
decoration to deprive the noble simplicity of the life 
and character of John Robinson of its own native force 
and impressiveness. If we can only realize or imagine 
how the man himself would have felt if living here to- 
day among us, we will be in a frame of mind which will 
better enable us to comprehend him and the lesson of 
his life, and appreciate the fruits of his works, which 
" do follow him." In such a spirit and with such in- 
tent I shall endeavor to say the few words which 1 have 
been asked to say by reverend ministers of the Congre- 
gational order in my own country — a request seconded 
by the reverend ministers who represent the union of 
Congregational churches in Great Britain. 

THE PURITAN KEVIVAL. 

The " emancipation of England from Norman domi- 
nation " I believe to be a just and true title and de- 
scription of the spiritual movement of which, on the 
threshold of the seventeenth century, the scanty hand- 
ful of simple agriculturists at the neighboring " town- 
let" of Scrooby, on the River Idle, near its junction 
with the Trent, was the nucleus, of which John Robin- 
son became the pastor, and whose place of worship was 
the hall of the manor house of William Brewster, who 
was born at Scrooby — the only member of wealth in 
the congregation and a graduate of the University of 
Cambridge. Of the birth and parentage of John Rob- 
inson, whose exile began when he was thirty-one years 
old and was lifelong, there remains but vague history; 
for, owing to his enforced separation from this country, 
and the prelatical persecutions that at that time 
desolated the homes and families of all independent 
religious dissidents, but little has survived of docu- 



mentary proof of the local and personal history of the 
period, so that I have not been enabled to discover 
even the names or residences of his progenitors, or 
1-race collateral relationships. C)f his own career in 
England, as afterwards in Plolland, happily there is 
no room for doubt; and his own hand has left the 
written record of his thoughts and labors in the cause 
of "soul liberty" and emancipation, which have borne 
such fruits in both hemispheres of the globe. That he 
himself styled Lincolnshire "his county," and thence 
proceeded, at the call of conscience, after he had with- 
drawn from his ministry in the national church at Nor- 
wich, may be held to fix that county as his place of 
birth. At the age of seventeen his name is found en- 
rolled in the University of Cambridge, and on the 
register of Emmanuel College is entered as a sizar, 
March 2, 1592; took his degree M.A. in 1600, and 
B.D. 1607. I am aware that the register of Corpus 
Christ! College also contains the entry of his name — 
John Robinson, E. Lincolnshire, admitted 1592, and 
Fellow 1593 — and perhaps the date of his degree of 
B.D. in 1607 in the register of Emmanuel may leave 
an open question as to this last entry. 

THE CHARACTER OF ROBINSON. 

But he completed his terms at Cambridge, where his 
scholarship gained for him a fellowship and the highest 
honors that university could bestow; and he truly was, 
in the words of a contemporary, " learned, polished, 
modest, and not easily to be paralleled." We find that 
his four years of ministry at Norwich were filled with 
unrest and mental disquietude, and that in 1604 he 
withdrew to Lincolnshire, and there united himself v/ith 
a congregation at Scrooby who had constituted them- 
selves into a church by a solemn covenant with God 
and with each other — "to walk in his ways made 
known, or to be made known, unto them according to 
their best endeavors, whatever it should cost tkejn.^^ 
From Ashton's Memoir of John Robinson, and annota- 
tions, I here transcribe : — 

" Scrooby must henceforth be regarded as the cradle 
of Massachusetts. Here the choice and noble spirits, 
at the head of whom we.re Brewster and Bradford, first 
learned the lessons of truth and freedom. Here, under 
the faithful ministration of the pastors, they were nour- 
ished and strengthened to that vigorous and manly 
fortitude which braved all dangers; and here, too, they 
acquired that moral and spiritual courage which enabled 
them to sacrifice their homes, property, and friends and 



Zbc Boo]^ of tbe pilgrimage 



expatriate themselves to distant lands rather than aban- 
don their principles and yield to the attempted usurpa- 
tion in the liberty of their consciences." 

And let us not, I pray you, allow our sense of sym- 
pathy for such men to degenerate to the lower level of 
mere pity; for indeed they had that within them which 
placed them in life, as it does their memories to-da)', 
quite above and beyond the need of such an emotion. 
John Robinson and his co-religionists trod the wine- 
press of affliction, but they trod it with a lofty spirit, 
with the moral dignity of sublimated intent. They 
were filled with that joy which is born of a cherished 
conviction in its hour of oppression, and which seems 
for its perfection to need the sharp frosts of adversity, 
such as approaching winter brings to the American 
forest, giving tints of an autumnal beauty more exquisite 
than the luxuriance a summer sun can ever bestow. 
Such men never crept, but ever marched through life' — 
" Anlhropoi " — with heaven-erected faces, and heard 
ever singing in their hearts the clear, uplifting voice of 
judicial conscience, like a trumpet call to the clear 
spirits, for they felt themselves soldiers in the cause of 
truth and heard her accents in every vicissitude. My 
dear countryman, James Russell Lowell, in a preface to 
a Life of Izaak Walton — a contemporary (although a 
little younger) of John Robinson — describes as the 
" sixth beatitude " that " the pure in heart shall see 
Ciod, not only in some future and far-off scene, but 
wherever they turn their eyes." And by this we may 
be able to comprehend what it was upon which the 
minds and hearts of these pilgrims and their pastor 
were fed, and upon what they turned their eyes and 
found cause for hope and cheerful courage in the dark 
hours of their persecution, adversity, and affliction. 
The religion of assent has its equal counterpart in the 
religion of dissent — the obligation to do those things 
that we ought to do and the equal obligation to leave 
undone those things we ought not to do. 

OUR DEBT TO BYGONE GENERA'IIONS. 

Is it not well to pause now and then on our journey 
and consider the indubitable progress of civilization, 
the actual moral outgrowth of the principles of Chris- 
tianity and the consequent advance the world has 
made under it, and how to-day we accept and enjoy, 
as a matter of course, the blessings and advantages 
of civil and religious liberty, giving but little thought 
to the generations who in bygone years toiled and 
suffered to secure them for us? How small the 
measure of our gratitude and infrequent our recogni- 
tion of those who 

Peyond their dark age led the v^n of thought I 



On such a scene, and on such an occasion as this, well 
may the words of Whittier be repeated : — 

... We lightly hold 
A right which brave men died to gain ; 

The stake, the cord, 

The axe, the sword, 
Grim nurses at its birth of pain. 

Consider the absolute and unquestioned religious liberty 
of the times in which we live and in those countries 
governed by the English-speaking races. And then go 
back three hundred years and endeavor to realize here 
in England the condition of John Robinson and his 
little flock of co-religionists at Scrooby, asking only to 
be allowed to worship God and lift their hearts to him 
in such words and forms of supplication for his guid- 
ance and mercy as their needs of conscience and the 
instinctive hunger of the heart instructed them to pray 
for. 

INDIVIDUAL FREEDOM THE ROOT OF SOCIAL AND 

KELIGIOUS PROGRESS. 
Conscience and reason were the underlying moral 
forces, then as now, at work, and from them was slowly 
evolving all social and pohtical progress, at the root of 
which lay the recognition of individual freedom and 
" the equal right of every man to be unhindered by 
men in the fulfillment of his daty to God." Yet in 
those days, under the reign of James \, — a pedantic 
bigot, well styled " a captain of arts and a doctor of 
arms,"- — it was forbidden so to pray in England, and 
equally restrained were they from going out of England 
to pray in foreign lands. It was sought to enforce the 
royal claim to settle the world's theology by the will of 
a monarch, to make the religion of the magistrate the 
religion of the people; and all individual freedom of 
conscience and mind was to be despotically coerced 
into unintelligent or hypocritical submission. The 
Christian religion was not based upon worldly power or 
property in any of its forms, but upon freedom of con- 
science, and the kingdom of God had been divinely 
declared to be within each human heart. The prin- 
ciples of such a system, of necessity and logically, 
brought into active exercise those qualities of mind and 
moral nature which were thus developed naturally and 
instinctively — -the muscles of the mind which, like the 
muscles of the body, are educated into strength, and 
both obey the same inherent natural law of growth by 
use; and thus it is plainly seen how liberty leads to 
strength and the health of the body politic. But the 
terrible and momentous issue was raised whether liberty 
of conscience was to be allowed, or were men to be 
forced into atheism or become utterly irreligious, or 
compelled to a sacrilegious reception of the sacrament 



tlbe lC)tlodms in lC>tIgnm %ani> 



— no true conversion, but the deadly sin of hypocrisy 
and the desecration of what is hoHest. 

A TRIBUTE TO THE DUTCH PEOPLE. 
When such an issue was framed the morality of John 
Robinson and his associates, founded on religious prin- 
ciples, could not hesitate. And, as William Bradford 
has recorded, " being thus molested, and with no hope 
of their continuance there, by a joynte consent they 
resolved to goe into ye low Countries, where they heard 
was freedom for religion for all men." This was in 
1607, and I will not recite the sad and well-known his- 
tory of the arbitrary and cruel measures that were re- 
sorted to to prevent the departure of the congregation, 
and how finally, in broken detachments, distressed, de- 
spoiled, imperiled, by land and by sea, they came, after 
great hardships, together in Amsterdam, and in the 
course of another year were transferred to Leiden. 
And is not a tribute due here and now of gratitude and 
honor to the country which, in their hour of sore need, 
gave them welcome, protection, and generous toleration 
in an age of intolerance? TJie Netherlands was but a 
little patch of earth rescued from the sea, warred over 
by man and the elements, without natural advantages 
other than those arising from contact with the sea, 
which was ever threatening to engulf them, yet in the 
seventeenth' century this war-worn, weather-beaten strip 
had become the commercial center of Europe, an asylum 
for the victims of religious persecution, and is one of 
the phenomena of history. A military eye would have 
sought in vain for strong natural positions; no ranges 
of hills, no salient features for the combinations of 
resistance and the delivery of assault; the breastworks 
of Holland consisted only in the stout hearts of her 
people, sustained by conscientious conviction, animated 
by hope and calm reliance on that Power with whom 
the wisdom of this world is but foolishness. In a fear- 
ful struggle, lasting forty years, it had gained its own 
liberties against desperate odds, with an unflinching and 
pertinacious courage never paralleled in the annals of 
history; had made its soil the grave of 300,000 invading 
Spanish soldiers, and compelled an expenditure by 
Spain of imore than 200,000,000 of ducats in the futile 
effort to subjugate it — the vain attempt to prescribe, 
as Motley says, " what was to be done in this world and 
believed in the next." Taine says that in 1609 the 
Dutch Republic was two centuries ahead of the rest of 
Europe. Their idea was the organization of society for 
the public good, and this made them the instructors 
and civilizers of the modern world and caused their 
country to become a haven of safety for the victims 
of persecutions for opinions' sake in France and in 
England. More books were printed in Holland in the 



seventeenth century than in all the other countries of 
Europe put together. 

THE Pn.GRIMS IN LEIDEN. 
Unquestionably the commercial freedom, the liberality 
of trade in the Dutch Republic induced many English- 
men to transfer their energies and fortunes to that 
country; for all the branches of liberty spring from 
the same stock and gather strength from the same ideas. 
Commerce has ever been the great civilizer of mankind, 
for it not only teaches honesty, without which com- 
mercial dealings are impossible, but it makes intelli- 
gence essential. In Leiden the congregation remained 
eleven years, John Robinson having been admitted in 
161 5 as a member of the Leiden University, pursuing 
diligently his studies in theology. It is noticeable that 
the same tolerant and generous welcome was extended 
to the Huguenot refugees, who equally found asylum 
in Holland; and a declaration recorded by Robinson 
contains the interesting historical fact : " Touching the 
ecclesiastical ministry — namely, of pastors for teaching, 
elders for ruling, and seasons for distributing the church 
contributions; as also for the two sacraments, baptism 
and the Lord's Supper — lue agree in all tilings with 
the French reformed churches." But despite the liberty 
of conscience afforded by Holland, the English pil- 
grims were restless until they should again live under 
English laws, and that their children should retain the 
language and name of Englishmen. Their lives, too, 
were full of toil, and not of a kind to which they had 
been accustomed, for at home " they had only been 
used to a plain country life and the innocent trade of 
husbandry." 

THE VOYAGE OF THE MAYFLOWER. 

They felt themselves " constrained to live by leave in 
a foreign land, exiled from home and country, spoiled 
of goods, destitute of friends, few in number and mean 
in condition." They were undoubtedly in danger of 
becoming absorbed in the community around them, of 
losing their distinctive church organization, their national 
identity, their language and its traditions. And believ- 
ing this, John Robinson favored the settlement, and 
promoted the plan for their removal to the new colony 
beyond the Atlantic, and measures were taken to carry 
it out. He made it a condition precedent of the re- 
moval from Holland to Virginia that they should not 
be disturbed or injured in their new homes on account 
of their peculiar religious practices and opinions. Not 
without many delays and serious difficulties was the 
expedition fitted out; but finally, in August, 1620, the 
embarkation of the congregation took place, at Delft 
Haven, in the Speedwell, which was to meet her con- 



Ube Booft of tbe pilgrimage 



sort, the Mayflower, at Plymouth, from which port, and 
on September 6, 1620, the two httle vessels set sail. I 
need not recite to you how they were compelled to 
return to port, because the Speedwell was thought to 
be unseaworthy, and the Mayflower proceeded alone, 
bound for the Hudson River, but by stress of weather 
was forced northward, and with her one hundred and 
one passengers, men, women, and children, in stormy 
weather made her landing on Cape Cod on November 9. 
It was the intention of John Robinson to have fol- 
lowed, but circumstances prevented, and his death 
occurred a few years after; but in 1629 his sons, John 
and Isaac, with the remainder of the Scrooby congre- 
gation, joined in the settlement in America in which his 
heart was so enlisted, but which he was destined never 
to see. 

THE OUTCOME OF THE EMIGRATION. 

It is clear and plain to us now that the departure 
from England of this small body of humble men was a 
great step in the march of Christian civilization; it 
contained the seed of Christian liberty, freedom of in- 
quiry, freedom of instruction, freedom of man's con- 
science. " Like unto a grain of mustard seed, which a 
man took and sowed in his field, which is indeed the 
least of all seeds, but when it is grown, it is the greatest 
among herbs, and becometh a tree so that the birds of 
the air come and lodge in the branches thereof." Little 
regard had John Robinson for worldly fortune, fame, or 
what goes by the general name of success. He deduced 
his duty from the profound principles disclosed to his 
personal conscience, enlightened by religion and founded 
on the moral order revealeil to the world by the teach- 
ings and example of the Saviour Christ. His simple, 
unselfish, courageous life is illuminated by the princi- 
ples of his divine Master, and therefore he still lives; 
and this is the origin of the edifice whose corner stone 
we lay to-day. In his Memorials of Canterbury, Dean 
Stanley — a kindred spirit to John Robinson — • asks : — 

" Had the great Stephen Langton, the cardinal arch- 
bishop, been asUed which was most likely to endure, 
the Magna Charta which he won from John or the 
shrine which five years afterwards he consecrated in the 
presence of Henry HI, he would, beyond all question, 
have said the shrine of St. Thomas. But we see what 



he could not see; we see that the charter has lasted, 
because it was founded on the eternal laws of truth, of 
justice and freedom; the shrine has vanished away, 
because it was founded on the passing opinion of the 
day, because it rested in ignorance, which was gradually 
dissolving, because it was entangled in exaggerated 
superstitions which were condemned by the wise and 
good, even in those very times." 

And the works, the name, the fame of this simple 
pastor of a human flock will endure, and generations 
yet unborn shall seek in this church a touch of his 
vanished hand, a scent of his fragrant memory, redolent 
as it is with the sweet odor of unselfish devotion to the 
service of God and loving-kindness to his fellow- 
creatures. 

JOHN ROBINSON'S NAME AND CHARACTER A TIE 
BETWEEN ENGLAND AND AMERICA. 

He had lived not quite fifty years when he was called 
back to God, and on March i, 1625, he heard " the one 
clear call," and, as was then written of him, " if either 
prayers, tears, or means would have saved his life he 
would not have gone hence." John Robinson, a min- 
ister of Christ, died in exile and in poverty, and to-day 
two great nations are represented here in paying honor 
and respect to his memory and moral worth. His 
name and character create a tie between those who feel 
the kindred, not merely of a common language, — the 
mother tongue of both peoples, — but of the thoughts 
and feelings of which language is merely the clothing 
and the symbol; and out of these thoughts have grown 
convictions of mutual duty, from which we cannot 
detach ourselves if we would — and, as I sincerely be- 
lieve, would not if we could. The wide ocean he 
never crossed, and which lies between his grave and 
the colony he planted on the other side, has become a 
bridge, and no longer is a barrier, but serves to bring 
together the people of the two countries who share in 
love and sympathy in his life and work. His memory 
is a tie of kindred — a recognition of the common trust 
committed to both nations to sustain the principles of 
civil and religious liberty, of which he was a fearless 
champion and under which has been so marvelously 
fulfilled the prophecy, "A little one shall become a 
thousand, and a small one a great nation." 



^be pilorims in EI^ 




LY, the little town in the fen lands of East Anglia, the scene of 
Kingsley's " Hereward," where, for a single night, the pilgrims 
laid aside their " staff and sandal shoon," will ever abide in 
their memories as a veritable Chamber of Peace. Whether or 
not our gracious host, Dean Stubbs, surmised that we had 
reached that point in our journeyings where we needed " time 
to repair our nature with comforting repose," his plans for our 
entertainment conduced wonderfully to that end. The very 
invitation to a " tea in the cloister garth " had a soothing sound 
and refreshed our jaded spirits like a rest in music. 

We arrived late in the afternoon, and lowering skies and 
a chilly atmosphere soon drove us from the garth into the 
deanery drawing-room. What a lovely, reposeful, homelike 
interior it was, with its recessed windows, its wealth of choice pictures, its atmos- 
phere of antiquity, and, above all, the cordial hospitality of members of the house- 
hold ! And what converse we had in the low-ceiled, wainscoted rooms as we 
lingered "over the teacups," listening chiefly to the dean as he told us a little of his 
theories of life, especially as related to the working classes, 
for whom he manifests a deep and practical interest. We 
had read something of the way in which, when vicar at 
Granborough, he divided his glebe into acre lots for the 
benefit of the villagers, and of the night school in his 
laundry for two winters in another parish, but this personal 
interview gave us a new conception of his work. Over 
his study fireplace are carved in oak these words from 
Goethe : Gedenke zu le ben (Think of living). This sen- 
tence and another from the same book, " Earnestness alone 
makes life eternity," have served as his watchwords for 
many a year. In his forthcoming book, "A Creed for 
Christian Socialists," may be found the essence of the ^^^^ ^^^^^^ 

dean's ideas on socialism, which is that Christ should be 

dominant in all realms of living, in politics and industry no less than in theology 
and ethics. He believes in a spiritual unity, but not outward conformity between 
different branches of the Christian church, and rejoices in the opening of English 
universities to Nonconformists, because this common educational bond must 
ultimately prove a strong unifying influence. It was a rare privilege to hear themes 
of such import discussed by one who has been styled " the broad-minded, scholarly, 
terribly earnest, yet blithe and happy dean of Ely." 




Ube Booh of tbe BMlgrlmage 




XTbe ptlgrims in Els 




ELY CATHBDKAl. 
TUESDAY, JUNK .ioth, i8g 



At length, as sunset shadows appeared on the green, velvety close, we followed 
him into the noble minster, through the splendid Galilee porch, down the long 
Norman nave, pausing beneath the great octagonal lantern, through whose traceried 
windows prismatic colors were now shimmering, and came finally into that wonderful 
lady chapel with its inconceivably delicate carvings of fruit and flowers. This was 
one of the places, however, where we had no disposition to boast of our Puritan 
ancestry as we saw how their ruthless hands had shattered peerless statues and made 
havoc of unparalleled specimens of mediaeval and classic art. All these points of 
architectural and historic interest were explained by the dean in his own inimitable 
fashion, but he had reserved for the evening the 
most unique feature of our entertainment in the 
shape of a " moonlight " organ recital in the 
cathedral. 

At nine o'clock we groped our way to seats 
in the western end of the nave, the huge pillars 
looming up like giants on either side and the only 
light coming from the distant south transept. 
This dim illumination was ingeniously arranged to 
have the effect of moonbeams, softly stealing in — ===:^ — 

at the clearstory windows, touching here and ' tocc.t. .» fi.oou tw, 

there with a mystical light the pillars and arches ' [^"27 """ ; i "I 

of the beautiful octagon, making of this incom- 4"ij,„:,„in,. (\™h«) ... r.T.x.ik 

parable architectural feature, which is the glory of ' pbk« omi s, .te c.,.,s 

Ely, a vision out of the darkness — a dream, beau- f™™.,, »>..,. and, 

tiful enough to be dissipated by the first awakening , Mt»,T.T,o> ... ivi<,],„) c.-«j 

to everyday realities, yet indeed a dream in stone, •> i«i«"»'s",oN (The sw™) t.t.nm, 

and its impression upon the entranced beholders _______ 

as enduring as the stone itself. A fugitive beam 

of light caught now and then the hand or the violin bow of the player as he stood 
upon the choir steps, and we could well imagine one of Fra Angelico's playing 
angels with his golden nimbus just behind the screen of darkness. 

Presently from out of the stillness came a message from the old master, Bach, 
first in soft, mellow waves of sound, creeping along the 'groined arches, and ending in 
a thunderous fugue with all the organ's power. The lofty strains died away, to be 
succeeded by one of Schumann's melodies on the violin, played with a power and 
pathos that no words can describe. Oh, the haunting sweetness of that music as it 
swept along the vaulted roof till it seemed as if it were caught up and echoed back 
by a choir of angels ! One selection followed another till an hour had passed away. 
Then, in exalted mood, we retraced our steps, past the door where the dean stood in 
the shadows to receive our subdued but grateful farewells, out through the deanery 
gate, back to the quiet, well-kept Lamb Hotel, to lie down and dream of celestial 
harmonies in the temple not made with hands. 



XLbc Book of tbe pilgrimage 




Zbc pilgrims in IRorwicb 




ICH as our experiences had been heretofore, 
the transcendent privilege of the trip was 
still awaiting us at Norwich, for here was 
focused in a single day several of those 
distinctive features which had characterized 
the preceding weeks. The greeting from 
our Nonconformist brethren, full of inspira- 
tion and touching our hearts with memories 
of the heroism of the past and the spiritual 
sympathies of the present, together with 
all that is impressive in the architecture 
and pageantry of the Established Church, 
its clergy acting as our hosts at a grand 
social function, and a delightful garden party conspired to make this occasion typical 
of the English pilgrimage. 

The ancient cathedral was celebrating its Sooth anniversary, and a more impos- 
ing ceremony probably none of our party will ever see again. We were overwhelmed 

to find that some of the choicest 

seats in the building, in the 

organ gallery and in the choir, 

had been reserved for us. We 

supposed that our good friend 

Dr. G. S. Barrett, who was inde- 
fatigable in his kind services, 

both before and during our stay, 

had secured for us this excep 

tional privilege, but he assured 

us that Dean Lefroy himself had 

extended the courtesy. This is 

Dean Lefroy. ^ ^ Dr G S Baifett 

the more remarkable when it is 
remembered that we as Nonconformists represented a faith which, to a certain 
extent, repudiates the forms venerated by the Church of England. We had scarcely 
taken our seats when from the far distance came the sound of male voices, accom- 
panied by trumpet and cornet, singing the triumphant hymn : — 





Lift the strain of high thanl<sgiving ! 

Tread with song.s the hallowed way ! 
Praise our fathers' God for mercies 

New to us their sons to-day ; 



Here they built for him a dwelling, 
Served him here in ages past. 

Fixed in it their sure possession, 
Holy ground, while time shall last. 



Ube J6oof? of tbe pilgrimage 



This was a token that the procession had started from the cloisters, and as the 
statel}' body moved with slow and measured steps down the nave the congregation 
caught up the strain and the magnificent volume of praise did not cease till the last 
ecclesiastic, His Grace the Lord Archbishop of Armagh, Primate of all Ireland, who 
preached the sermon, was seated within the[|altar rails. A more dignified and impress- 
ive scene can hardly be 
imagined. First came the 
civic functionaries led by 
the Norwich Corporation 
in their splendid regalia, 
and preceded by an offi- 
cial bearing the mace, 
glittering with beautiful 
rock crystals, a gift from 
Queen Elizabeth. Next 
came other mayors in the 
diocese in oiificial robes 
and chains, members of 
Parliament and of the 
Grand Lodge of Masons, 
barristers i n powdered 
wigs, officers of the 
Princess Royal's Dragoon 
Guards, and, most impos- 
ing of all, the clergy and 
cathedral body, wearing 
cassock, surplice, stole, 
hood of their degree, and 
college cap. The choir 
boys were in blue and 
white ; the doctors of di- 
vinity were easily distin- 
guished by their scarlet 
gowns, and the bishops 
by their immense lawn 
sleeves. 

Last of all came the 

Lord Bishop of Norwich, before whom was borne his silver crosier, escorting the 
Archbishop of Armagh, the entire procession numbering nearly 400. A deeply 
interesting thanksgiving service followed, in which it was noticeable that a prayer 
for the President of the United States was included in the general collect, then 
a sermon showing how cathedrals may truly minister to one's spiritual life, and 




The Choir, Norv 



Ube iPilorims in Irtorwicfj 




Archbishop of Armagh. 



at its close a marvelous rendering of Stainer's sevenfold Amen by the choir. As 
the waves of almost divine harmony swept over the bowed heads of the great 
congregation new depths of reverence were opened in our hearts, and to worship 
before the Almighty seemed the very transport of human joy. During the reces- 
sional hymn the same body of ecclesiastics and other dignitaries slowly marched out 

^ of the cathedral, and the return, from our advantageous 

point of view, gave a fine opportunity to study their faces. 
About a hundred of the more eminent guests, includ- 
ing nine bishops and many of the nobility, had been invited 
by Dean Lefroy to luncheon in a spacious marquee on the 
deanery grounds, and to this number he added the entire 
American party. This distinguishing act of hospitality, 
on an occasion when he might have ignored our presence 
in the city without the least discourtesy, shows the catho- 
lic spirit of the man. Nor was our invitation an after- 
thought, for among the toasts on the daintily printed 
iiieiM cards was one to " Our Kinsmen Beyond the Sea." 
This was proposed by the guest of honor, the Archbishop 
of Armagh, Dr. Alexander, whose wife wrote 
There is a green hill far away, 
and other beautiful hymns, and Dr. Dunning responded in a manner that made us 
nowise ashamed of our leader. His Grace said he believed that the American visitors 
would cany back with them a message of honest, downright love from one people to 
another, so as to make the notion of a war between Eng- 
land and America utterly inconceivable. The sentiment 
evoked enthusiastic applause, nor was it the only expres- 
sion of a similar kind during the feast. The Bishop of 
Norwich, speaking of the passion for freedom which had 
brought forth such glorious fruit in England, making it the 
happiest and freest country in the world, added, " Of 
course, I include our Anglo-Saxon kinsmen across the 
Atlantic." Canon Jessopp, too, eminent as an antiquarian, 
who has written some fascinating stories of old abbeys 
and friars, and is an authority on folklore, paid a fervent 
tribute to the founders of America, characterizing the 
Pilgrims as "apostles of freedom — men before their age." 
What a reversal of opinion since the day when some of 

. . 11111- Bishop Sheepshanks. 

them were " clapt up m prison and others had their 

houses beset and watched night and day " because they taught "strange and danger- 
ous doctrine " ! 

Careless seems the great Avenger . . . but behind the dim unknown 
Standeth God within the shadow, keeping watch above liis own. 




XTbe Bool? of tbe pilgrimage 



The afternoon began to wane when we realized that 
we must surrender these social delights for a scene quite 
different in character but most elegant in all its appoint- 
ments. Mr. J. J. Colman, the millionaire manufacturer, 
and the Misses Colman had arranged for a garden party 
in our honor to which about five hundred guests were 
invited. After a cordial reception by our host and his 
charming daughters we strolled about the gardens, which 
cover over a dozen acres and occupy the site of an old 
Benedictine priory. Parts of the original edifice are still 
preserved and have 
been transformed 
into a unique sort of 
lodge, full of art 
historic interest, 
library bears the 
Wygan, who was 

A few years ago 
column was acci- 
t h e gardens, a n d 
expert antiquarian, 
group of early build- 
church, is plainly 
filled with rare e.x- 
flowers, shady 
of noble trees and 
to prolong our ram- 
estate, which stands 






Rev. John Lewis 



treasures and objects of 
The fireplace in the 
escutcheon of Isabel 
prioress in 1514. 
the shaft of a Norman 
dentally discovered in 
now, by the help of an 
the outline of the whole 
ings, including the 
defined. Greenhouses 
otics, a wealth of native 
groves, winding avenues 
velvety lawns, lured us 
bles over this beautiful 
j( * w J on a height commanding 

V" i;^ a superb view of the 

surrounding c u n I r y. 
An abundance of choicest fruits from the adjoining hot- 
houses and cream from what is said to be the finest dairy 
farm in England were among the delicacies served for our 
physical refreshment from three large tents. Music was 
furnished by the band belonging to the Carrow Works, 
as the vast manufactories close by are called. From 
twelve hundred to two thousand persons are employed in 
them, and the following day, when some of our party made 
a tour of the mammoth establishment with Mr. Colman, 
they were impressed by the cordial relations which evi- 
dently exist between this Christian employer and his 
employees. Schools and a hospital for their use are 



^be pilGrfms in IRorwtcb 





otioufi^ rrl^lircxt 



i LUl UU i3i Uii Ui ai\ C LlOU I lUOJt 1 01 dial xurirtrRT 

ic ncixmci imall tnto.auii> for U^t pirr^ffcyuoxi of iho^i i.oho 
rtur^OTO for iljcu courafiioufl juU'hn-' to lUoac ft nuplca jmciiif 
ru lo lUiicut 
Wirjl n;oictf Utt/piaat&lu thai lulua compi h'h o Uiui me Uxnb of Ki ir &uih itun 

a ^rcrtl spuu-UtU po^lcuUi I'uL&om unuor-Mup < o^ au>i in louvtuum uuu tnm 

J'Vj^ ^"^'^ "^ '"'^^ *^^^^ '^'^'"'^'" ""^^ ''"'^'- ^ '-■'iiLiu national (.harcn uuiji t'lfi iJcii m ixc- 

,^y 3jnnU Ihe firsi ufors op fii^ "''ubiu: llmistrp Axii} luon a g ecu cxpcruruce u co ili iin 
^ ^\ afrprxuftios ipjxorc rom thn ^ itn oiao xunu aome of Uc -'LpmahUi i.aun 
^^jjjj thp nrUmou^x ptrrciioui eittirn&ciJ io thnr uirthiirn m oUai-i^ lua luruaa t 

^^u^wtiicb ttirmcirr formeinnluf^ ant" built a|^tu tm 1 ci of* oUracioi tii J > 1 an 

-yV some oji rhooi irvtrio n:^iH wUoiii iJiiji.rntuxni'j uox; an? 
-^ -• 4iU^ Jfltxir Ujitti pou a romium pnbi. 1 ihr prral mttcutoucr which i unn 
^3«RN- W^^ I jjp mora' jJUriUi hKliiicLili) to fon^cieucc ihp tncofciJit ci ^ r \ n in hi la 
tuobf tuho rurrc iX\c i ax iu Ufi blooi" of uovr oreai i pobhc dr ipu 1 
LhiJi crfcCit Utfnrhrctuar'b liliicti cainpfrom thar itirua9,ici.M.i to " 1 "^ 

uucr motjghc thi conviction ora\ciu fou^m tor au& iwLUv d^r; iic^ a a u 

ihantyeia bgiDtiicti '^H i.£^i.awT>imsc f toT^v^ propU tti noturxLrMjloticu c i i , n 

npics op f^urch hfr untiinicrP^ bu pntjcp 01 ptLUxti, dU rlncst uou ha\c muci Uci. uti"^ | o\ iii 
tl^l:^s^^ wctoo aa pilLcb ujxth proiG? anil thaul^uhic-iJi 10 fltnu ilitu i >o^ fm lUc hwrory of 
■ppiufeii^tRnt) tiouf of ihci(u:'tic\ of oar councru as wail aa of iiour own 

Uyou cmou tii&AV of commcm%l.fntrr}.n-ic ol -^oiiai pmnrira/- of Oucacionat force ani? 
op CIVIC &nb ^irtiuftl hfi is Uic ootrotrie uirccUW or mbai.ulv of rhoei pnuupii \ mb H 
tht ^':tpnttiI'AEhi?rs Itioutlljt tottw mcU^mn of pour epubur 1. oi>r for^ {lour ^tTcO- Uarp'^ full 
of ut«itHi cni^ pomcT3tan& onih? l)j.\i^ offrirubcnn laciituteii bp ihcxa' the infiKn^ncc of ihnr 
poitry b&s mroii^! mm.v mtpiticu\i axai anp jitter in iae*?iiu& ^hc ijoatie mhuli hA\rorur"5 rhosc 
aiaXis tomixrr n\ on^ itiigiUtu anb ntanoUb itfttioii "Ol) tjolfte-et Cr 1 tnus f ilie ilanms nin t 
hmcfeUintfexeticii of itwnri?TiltVnp9 xviijicU tueu- ^effcentJanto Uiurr?chii.b < Vn binlb ■& 
iTcun tltpo ilini iiw-iB U ftieji ^outitii U)as tinnr ouju rPhttiout hOfrrg 5«t thct) ctciulD | 01 a 
notion Afn^eOow cfaat lua^ boftu eU^touaf ant) umI an?t their principM tiaM. bn.om'rilu iti 
apiramp op qU rl>aH8 most real anSvital m oyri] oilcrt\ Umocreurj^ ano have fjelft upforati 
nations Ehi L^wiUcb idetti of ttt Uuiau^ ui m mne ^ ^v "" " 
I \T*p|hff 11 ^^ '■^"^'^ ^^'^■^f ^"^^w ^^ic "i^ i"^ '■■I'p'^n ua tiint vom \tc(onereE We bceoiinc our 
i HlUJirU pu^p lUtiai jto mofst benrbothrcrynu nnbust^btoL lo thtpoxuei of oDr 
con>n)on faith u) the .oxi) Jpsua < iinat attb Xvihiu-.t luc prats that vjc ntay 61. mori uiorUra 
topoost^ft Xulifti 13 ours lue aLaobt9eivU( oi aiac toactUcriui mavtnsefor 'uiner mi^ 
Irtr^cr pur;ji^e^ rtTcnviLaui rctitixouo fnciiouj^otiobtp woHjTorUB imthr eaffirmjve atils 
paciit-ictre of oXir fathurw 




a 



AN ADDRESS OF WELCOME. 
Presented to The Congregationallst's Pilgrims in the Old Meeting House at Norwich, England. 



Ube Booft of tbe ipilarimage 



external signs of his devotion to their welfare, and Dr. Barrett's church, where he 
worships, is another object of his generous beneficence. 

Full as the day had been, it detracted nothing from our keen appreciation of 
the evening reception in the Old Meeting House, given by our own brethren in 
the faith, the mayor himself presiding. The plainness of both edifice and assembly 
offered a sharp contrast to the splendid spectacle in the cathedral a few hours before, 
and thereby accentuated to our thought the cost of our religious liberty. Here 
was a city in which the first Congregational church was founded by Robert Browne 
in 1580; here John Robinson spent the first years of his public ministry, and four 
of the early pastors of this very church suffered bitter persecution, having been 
ejected from the Establishment by the famous Act of Uniformity. These and other 
thrilling facts were eloquently presented by Rev. J. Lewis, the present pastor, in his 
address of welcome, which was beautifully engrossed on vellum. Several speeches 
from both Englishmen and Americans followed, and we heartily indorsed the words 
of Dr. Barrett when he said: "This little pilgrim band will leave England with full 
hearts and tender memories. They will never forget the kindness and welcome 
extended to them on all hands ; they will never forget English hearts and English 
homes." The next morning both he and the mayor devoted themselves to showing 
us points of interest about the city. We were glad to enter Dr. Barrett's own 

Sunday-school rooms, 
thousand pupils, and to 
the rare old silver pieces 
banquets. There were 
sauce boats, salt cellars 
quaintest designs, a 
cate repousse gold, all 
as well as intrinsically 
bethan mace already 
only on state occasions, 
regalia were also seen, 
pleasure during our stay 
entertained at the 
which had an existence 
discovery of America 
modern conveniences 
of antiquity remains in 
windows, wide fire- 
places, and old carved furniture to fascinate the visitor for hours together. The 
writer was fortunate in being assigned to the identical apartment occupied by Eliza- 
beth during her visit in 1578, and one could almost believe that the old-fashioned 
canopied bed and the queer little ewer and pitcher were a part of the furnishings 
then. In the assembly room, where famous men in wigs and ruflfles and noted 



church, with its spacious 
accommodating nearly a 
examine at the Guildhall 
used at the corporation 
massive tankards and 
and loving cups of 
rose-water bowl of deli- 
historically interesting- 
beautiful. The Eliza- 
mentioned, and used 
and the mayor's rich 
Another element of 
in Norwich was to be 
Maid's Head Hotel, 
twenty years before the 
by Columbus. While 
have been added, enough 
the shape of latticed 




:7/S«0 



Zbc f»ilgrims in IHorwicb 

beauties in wondrous headdresses and costumes once made a brilliant show beneath 
the blaze of wax candles, the diminutive gallery for the fiddlers is still preserved. 

Something of the sadness — though for a far different reason — which filled the 
hearts of the early Pilgrims as they bade farewell to old England gave a tinge of 
melancholy to our departure that afternoon. The land that Shakespeare calls " this 
precious stone set in the silver sea" is endeared to us by a thousand new ties, 

For there runs 
The same blnod in our veins as in your sons; 
The same deep-seated love of liberty 
Beats in our hearts. We speak the same good tongue. 
Familiar with all songs your bards liave sung. 

And sweeter and stronger than all other links in this chain of international 
fellowship are our common love and service for the same divine Master. 

A consciousness that the time had come for the beginning of separations from 
each other added to our feelings of tender regret upon leaving old England. Two of 
our number, Messrs. Dexter and Whittemore, were to accompany us no farther, and 
as we brake bread together for the last time in the quaint banqueting room of the 
Maid's Head, at Norwich, an unwonted quiet fell upon our spirits. Dr. Richardson, 
General Wheeler, and others, in behalf of the party, thanked these two gentlemen 
for their efficient services, and each in reply adverted to the singular unity and good 
fellowship which had marked the trip from the outset. It is doubtful if an equal 
number of persons, most of whom were almost or quite strangers to each other when 
they embarked, ever traveled together more harmoniously. The speakers also took 
occasion to express the unanimous sentiment of appreciation felt by the party to 
T/ie Congregatioiialisi' s management, both for the first conception of the pilgrimage 
idea and for the manner in which the elaborate plans had been successfully worked 
out. 

Devout recognition was made of the still more remarkable circumstance that not 
a single plan had miscarried, from illness or any other cause, and that each individ- 
ual whose name appeared on the original membership list, printed a week before 
leaving America, was enabled to place his or her autograph on the register of the 
Old Meeting House in Norwich on this last day. Mr. Whittemore, in a deeply rev- 
erent and rarely graceful speech, disclaimed the idea of any real breaking up of a 
party having a purpose like ours, for the sacred shrines we had visited together were 
a token of the eternal bond existing between Christian believers. Verily there 

Are things wilh which we never part ; 
From clime to clime, o'er land and seas. 
We bear them wilh us in our heart 



XTbe Book of tbe pUcirimage 




(Ibe pilgrims in IboUanb 



HE exceptionally smooth passage across the North Sea brought 
us, on the morning of July 3, to the mouth of the Maas, and 
as we sailed up the river all the picturesque features of the 
Dutch landscape were clearly outlined in the bright sunlight. 
What a fascinating picture it is, especially when seen for the 
first time ! But if one expects to find the country precisely 
as it has been painted by artists, or described with so much 
charm by Thackeray, he will suffer a degree of disappointment. 
The general outlines, of course, are the same, but the trail of 
the tourist is over much of the land and has effaced certain 
_ -/--V- -ii v:^I features that now exist only in books or on the canvas of 
', f7:^;-=ii'^-- ''■^•' painters. The eternal flatness and greenness are indeed unal- 
'"":^=^-"'-"'' "" tered, the black Holstein cattle still graze in the fertile low- 
lands, shining canals fringed with tall reeds intersect the rich meadows as of yore, 
windmills which have flapped their unwieldy arms for three centuries continue to 




"JIfMI?! 




"^Ibe iSSool? of tbe pilgrimage 

loom up against the horizon, all life moves leisurely, and the hands on the dial of 
time seem to have been set back hundreds of years. 

But along the towpath, where walks a man in a blue blouse and wearing a 
wooden yoke to which is attached the rope that draws the lumbering barges, it is 
not uncommon to see a bicycle spinning past. Occasionally, too, one notices a 
whizzing steam engine cheek by jowl with the ancient, clumsy windmill, and the 
conjunction seems like an impertinence. Another odd sight is a modern bonnet 
perched on top of the queer Dutch caps, with their spiral gold pins standing out like 
horns on each side of the head just below the eyebrows. The old headgear, made 




of embroidered muslin and stiffly starched, with a cape coming well down on the 
shoulders, is most becoming to the wholesome, dumpling-faced farmer's wife as she 
stands in the doorway of her green little cottage, but the modern combination is 
simply grotesque. In order, therefore, to satisfy one's imagination it is desirable 
when traveling through Holland to get beyond the urban centers into the real 
country where life is still primitive and where the storks, solemnly nursing one leg, 
have not been driven away by railways and steam trams. 

Our party was reenforced at Harwich by several English friends, among them 
Dr. Mackennal and his daughter, of Bovvdon, Rev. E. J. Dukes, of Bridgewater, and 



Ube pilgrims in 1t)oUan& 

Mr. George Hardy, of London. Dr. Mackennal, as chairman of the Enghsh 
cooperating committee, was largely influential in making our reception in England 
such a success. Mindful that our chief aim was to retrace the footsteps of our 
exiled fathers, we first took a carriage drive around the city, thence to Delfshaven, 
and saw in imagination that memorable farewell so pathetically described by Brad- 
ford. He says : " Truly doleful was the sight of that sad and mournful parting ; to 
see what sighs and sobs and prayers did sound amongst them, what tears did gush 
from every eye and pithy speeches pierced each heart ; that sundry of the Dutch 
strangers that stood on the quay as spectators could not refrain from tears." 

Fourth of July was spent at The Hague, where Li Hung Chang and his suite 
happened to arrive at the same time, and for their accommodation we had to yield 




Buying Milk. 

the quarters engaged for us at the Hotel des Indes and were transferred to the 
Paulez. However, we had a fine opportunity to see the Celestial group and solaced 
ourselves with a few patriotic after-dinner speeches, " making a great deal of noise," 
as Dr. Park wittily remarked, " in the land of William the Silent." 

In the afternoon we went to Scheveningen, an expensive watering place three 
miles from the city. It differs outwardly from an American seaside resort in the 
number of bath chairs — hundreds of them — scattered along the beach. They are 
of wickerwork, and in shape not unlike a magnified old-fashioned sunbonnet. In 
them people sit and read or doze by the hour, agreeably protected from the sun and 
wind. Many are decorated outside with advertisements of cocoa in huge black 
letters. In former years this was a good place to see the distinctive costumes of the 



Zbc Book of tbe pilgrimage 




fisher-folk, who, alas ! are fast adopting conventional 
garments. Thus do civilization and the influence of 
cosmopolitan ideas tone down much of the old pictiir- 
esqueness here as in other parts of Europe. 

On the Lord's Day we tarried in Leiden, where 
the exiles found an asylum for eleven years. The sig- 
nificance of Puritan history again took on a new 
meaning as we worshiped in the great church of St. 
Peter, close by the house bearing a tablet with the 
inscription : " On this spot lived, taught, and died John 
Robinson." Dr. Brown calls attention to the fact that 
young Rembrandt was living with his father in Leiden 
at this time, and there is nothing improbable in the 
thought that Robinson in his walks may have seen the 
bright-faced lad at his games, and in later years passed 
City Gate, Leiden. ^^^ ^^ ^ student On the University stairs. A hospital 

now occupies the site, and in the afternoon we held an impressive service in a bare 
little room in the lodge, climbing up the frightfully steep stairs which are a common 
feature in Dutch architecture. The place was hot and crowded to excess, so that we 
stood in a double row around the walls, there being no seats. But we came to worship 
and to thank God for his wonderful mercy, and the thought of all present naturally 
revei'ted to the time when Robinson here preached to his devoted followers. They 
must have looked upon the same huge church which towered over us, and we could 
easily imagine what sad forebodings filled their minds, for the loftiest faith never 
dreamed of the glorious development awaiting their cause. Dr. Mackennal made a 
thoughtful, earnest address. Dr. Robinson, the worthy descendant of his pious 
ancestor, led us in prayer, and the exer- 
cises closed by singing, . ( 

My country, 't is of thee. 

The old university, which Niebuhr 
calls " the most memorable room of 
Europe in the history of learning," was 
another interesting shrine that claimed 
our attention, and it was pleasant to find 
one of our own countrywomen, Miss 
Putnam, of New York, a student there. 
She is a daughter of the well-known 
publisher, and enjoys the distinction of 
being the first American woman to be 
matriculated at a Dutch university. 
While our guest at luncheon the next 




Ube pilgrims in 1l3ollan& 

day she entertained us with a vivacious account of her life among this conservative, 
sturdy, and intelligent people. While here some of 'the party drove to Katwyk, six 
miles distant, where immense sand dunes pleasantly relieve the monotonous level of 




the country, and where clumsy, square-prowed Dutch boats are drawn up on the 
beach. Beneath the shadow of their gayly painted hulls, and all along the shore, 
one may see wonderfully interesting types of life in costumes that for antiquity and 
picturesqueness far exceed those at Scheveningen. We halted for a few hours at 



Ubc Boo\\ of tbe pilgrimaoe 



Haarlem, for the purpose of enjoying 
a musical feast in a recital on the 
famous organ in the old Groote 
Kerk, and to visit the ancient town 
hall. We also loitered about the 
market place where an amazing lot 
of old rubbish' was exposed for sale, 
together with articles of real utility 
and value. 

In Amsterdam we were quartered 
at The Victoria, a fine hotel near the 
station and within easy walking dis- 
tance of the Dam, that great central 
thoroughfare whence radiate streets 
in every direction like the lines of a 
spider's web. Here one finds no lack 
of objects to divert and amuse. Rows 
of high-gabled houses, some tipped at 
angles that give the appearance of 
toppling over into the canal ; the som 
ber royal palace, kept up at large e\ 
pense, although the young Queen 




C u h L d 




Wilhelmina spends only six days in the 
year there ; the swinging drawbridges ; the 
motley crowd showing many Jewish faces; 
the network of trams with windows shut 
air-tight even in midsummer; the bevy of 
old salts with pipes in their mouths sunning 
themselves on the steps of the Zeemanshoop 
(seamen's hope) ; the dignified Exchange, 
where the bloated bondholders of the city 
congregate at noontime, — all this and much 
more make a moving panorama of singular 
fascination. Both here and at The Hague 
several hours were devoted to the superb 
art galleries with their incomparable por- 
traits by Rembrandt ; tiny interiors, perfect 
in every detail, by Gei'ard Dou ; rollicking 
street scenes by Jan Steen, and inimitable 
faces by Frans Hals, of whom some one 
has said, " He could paint a laugh, a 



Ube iPilgdms In IboUanb 




The Ferry, Arnsterdam. 

great boisterous, ringing, roystering laugh, as no painter has given before or 
since." 

In Amsterdam traces of the Separatist church are well-nigh obliterated, as its 
members abode there less than a twelvemonth. But through Dr. Brown's fascinat- 
ing book, " Pilgrim Fathers of New England," we were enabled to form a mental pic- 
ture of Francis Johnson, the first pastor, "a single young man and very studious," 
who once "lived on ninepence a week and subsisted on boiled roots." Associated 
with him as teacher was Henry Ainsworth, of whom Bradford said there is "not 
his better for the Hebrew tongue in the university, nor scarce in Europe." We also 




In Amsterdam. 



Ube iSSooft of tbe pilgrimage 



recalled a characteristic incident in the life of the late Dr. Dexter during his last 
visit to that city. Confident that in the old Stadhuis he could find the missing 
record of Governor Bradford's marriage, he interviewed the custodian, who politely 
informed him that Professor de Hoop Scheffer and other eminent antiquarians had 
made exhaustive search for the names of English exiles with only indifferent success. 
Moreover, with a shrug of the shoulders, the official averred that such searches were 

"very dusty and disagreeable"! But a 
ten-shilling piece modified his views on 
that point and the precious record was 
found, also the only known .signature of 
Ainsworth. The custodian was amazed 
and exclaimed, " How is it that you come 
hither 3,000 miles and in five minutes 
discover what our local students have all 
along searched for in vain.''" Professor 
Scheffer was among the first to express 
appreciation of the find, and subsequently 
sent Dr. Dexter 118 of these valuable 
marriage records between the dates of 
1598 and 161 7. 

Two delightful excursions, by means 
of a specially chartered steamer, were 
made to the Isle of Marken in the Zuyder 
Zee and to Alkmaar, the celebrated 
cheese market, which on Friday presents 
a scene unparalleled elsewhere in Europe. 
This method of travel through the canal 
is far and away more delightful than by 
rail and gives one a most satisfactory idea 
of the unique landscape of the Nether- 
lands. At Marken both men and women 
wear bloomers of coarse woolen cloth, 
and the women have one or more ringlets 
stringing down each side of tlie face from 
beneath a close-fitting white cap. They, 
as well as the little girls, wear a sort of quilted, gayly decorated corset outside their 
cotton blouses. Heavy wool stockings and wooden "klompen" (Dutch for sabots) 
complete the outfit, which looks hot and uncomfortable in summer. But one is a 
bit disappointed with Marken, on account of the evident spirit of greed that pervades 
the island, and a suspicion that these costumes and manners are retained chiefly for 
the revenue they bring in attracting tourists. Even the youngest children have 
learned one English word, money, and the)' follow visitors from point to point, 

136 




erdam— The Liltle Stts 



Ube pilgrims in IboUanJ) 

clattering along in their klompen and holding out brown, chubby hands for coins. One 
expects beggars in Italy and Egypt, but not in industrious, self-respecting Holland. 

At Broek, also, though for a different reason, the traveler experiences something 
of a shock. This is the far-famed " cleanest town in Europe," where a model dairy 
farm, with about fifty cows, is kept on exhibition "every day for 25 cents," as the 
proprietor's card reads. It is too obviously a show place to fit one's ideas of rural 
simplicity. People and cattle dwell together under one roof, and the stranger is 
expected to be properly amazed at seeing cow-stall windows draped with tiny 
lace curtains, and strips of carpeting laid the length of the cheese room, which is 
not separated, even by a partition, from the spick and span quarters of the cattle. 
At milking time the cows' tails are fastened out of the way to a hook in the ceiling. 
But these forms of cleanliness seem obtrusive and artificial. 




No disillusions await one, however, at Alkmaar. In the great open market 
place are pyramids of shining red and yellow cheeses which are counted, weighed, 
and then conveyed on stretchers by two men, one at each end, to barges in the canal, 
whence they are sent all over Europe. The men are arrayed in spotless white duck 
trousers and blouses, and in this case cleanliness seems normal and necessary. Each 



Zbc JSook of tbe pilgrimage 

group of men is distinguished by a different color of ribbon on the hatband. The 
ancient Weigh-House is a quaint, heavily rafted structure, fitted up with scales that 
have done duty for more than two centuries. The whole busy scene is intensely 
interesting. The men step about with an alert, proud air, giving an impression of 
that thrift and honesty which are distinguishing features of the Dutch. 

One comes away from Holland with a genuine admiration for the land and the 
people. Who that has seen it can ever forget the soft harmony in natural graduated 
grays in the landscape beloved by Dutch painters .' And who can be indifferent to 
the pluck which has wrested their little kingdom from their natural enemy, the sea, 
or wrenched it from that fiercer foe, the Spaniards .' Its glorious history appeals to 
Americans, especially to those whose ancestors found an asylum from persecution in 
their sea-girt land. 

From this point onward our paths radiate all over Europe to Germany, Italy, 
France, Austria, Norway, and Sweden, and only twelve of the original pilgrims will 
return together to the New World. 



Xool^ino 38ac??wavb 




lij^^Si'^' 




NE day towards the last of our journeying together it was sug- 
gested that each pilgrim should mention two events or experi- 
ences which, in the retrospect, stood forth as having afforded 
peculiar pleasure. Naturally a large majority singled out 
some such exceptional privilege as being entertained at Farn- 
ham Castle by Bishop and Mrs. Davidson, or participating in 
the splendid celebration at Norwich. But in nearly all the 
testimonies it was noticeable that the chief element of joy 
lay in the fellowship with English people rather than in the 
beauties of nature or the glories of art, thus verifying what 
Lowell once said : "Books are good dry forage, but, after all, 
men are the only fresh pasture." As an illustration of some 
of the impressions received through this medium, witness the 
verdict of a Connecticut pastor: — 

An evening in the study of Dr. Forsyth, pastor of one of the Congregational churches in 
Cambridge, and the personality of the " Congregational bishop " of Wells are noted because of 
a peculiar charm which belongs to a trip abroad. A century of America could not furnish two 
such evenings of Europe. Both men are the product of the characteristic civilization of Eng- 
land, yet are totally different as representing the contrasting results of differing types of conformity 
to the same environment. Two of the editorial staff of T/ie Congregationalist furnished 
the open sesame to poor mortal me to the delightful suburban home of Dr. Forsyth. Mr. 
Dale, illustrious son of an illustrious father, completed the company. To describe what was said 
and done and thought is impossible. Dr. Forsyth is a Christian Chesterfield with a keenness of 
intellect that is perfectly delicious. 

In the old, sleepy, ecclesiastical city of Wells we found dear Dr. Kighdey, whose appear- 
ance is as fascinating as the cathedral, and he looks nearly as old. His very make-up of body 
and mind is ecclesiastical. Overshadowed in the place of worship by the great cathedral, and 
overshadowed in position by deans and canons, yet this true bishop of the church feeds his flock 
and I doubt not rules his house. To him the visit of the pilgrims was an epoch, and from his 
joy he seemed to say, Simeon-like, Now let thy servant depart in peace, for mine eyes have 
beheld the glory of Congregationahsm. Bishop Ken's hymnology will hereafter have a charm 
before unknown, and the Doxology will have a larger, fuller, broader, and deeper meaning, due 
to the earnest interpretation and unique personality of this venerable servant of God. 

Of our intercourse at Wells with Bishop Kennion and the simple, spontaneous 
service in his palace another pilgrim said : — 

One deep impression was the vitality of spiritual life really uniting Established Churchman 
and stanchest Dissenter, emphasizing Paul's statement concerning many members, yet one body. 



TLbc Bool? of tbe pilgrimage 

and making sure the fulfillment of the day when without uniformity there shall yet be unity in 
the church. 

In a similar vein some one else spoke of the entertainment of a part of our 
company in the beautiful home of Dean Farrar in Canterbury : — 

After the impression of the magnificent cathedral, with the glimpse at its history and asso- 
ciations given by the dean, to be welcomed with sweet English courtesy to a typical English 
home and enjoy moments of delightful fellowship in which the oneness of those loyal to the 
same Master remands to fit remoteness minor differences of forms and hereditary associations, 
made up an hour of golden opportunity and satisfaction. 

Of this same day at Canterbury and of the personality of the dean still another 
remarked : — 

It was to me the most impressive and delightful of the whole pilgrimage because, first, the 
old St. Martin's Church, together with the magnificent cathedral, brought us into direct touch 
with early Christian history, linking the religious efforts of the present with the distant past. 
At no other point did ancient deeds move me as they did here. Secondly, because the bearing 
as well as the words of Dean Farrar charmed me. He seemed in reality the wonderful man I 
had thought him to be. Before I left home I had anticipated the day here as the cHmax of the 
pilgrimage and the privilege it Would afford of seeing and talking with a man whose written 
words have greatly moulded my thought. 

The object of our pilgrimage and the extraordinary welcome accorded us on 
account of it were repeatedly emphasized in this retrospective analysis. The formal 
addresses of welcome were sometimes beautifully engrossed on vellum or parchment. 
Some idea of them may be formed from the accompanying illustration, a reproduction 
about one quarter size of the one presented at Norwich, but the embellishments in 
gold and the tasteful coloring of the initial letters are necessarily lost in the repro- 
duction. The mild sensation which our coming sometimes produced is reflected in 
a humorous little episode told by one of the ladies. She begins, however, by 
saying: — 

I saw nothing anywhere more affecting and impressive than this universal welcome from 
Mr. Maxwell, the first to board the Columbia from the tender at Plymouth, to the Mayor of 
Norwich, who bade us good-by outside the castle gates. We could never forget that we were 
not common sight-seers. Our purpose to honor those who suffered for our sakes was an open 
sesame to doors and hearts at every step along the way. It is in that character that sweet and 
gracious courtesies were extended to us, who else, many of us, must have been totally unrecog- 
nized. Even the poor folk paid unconscious tribute to the motive which actuated our visit. 
Streaming down Pin Lane in Old Plymouth little children peeped at us with wondering finger in 
the mouth. At last, in a quaint old doorway, a decrepit grandam spoke the thought we after- 
ward heard expressed in so many varying tones of kindness : " Eh, child, look well on 'em. 
They 're dear folk. Lord bless 'em ! They 're the American Congregationalists ! " 
Avenge, O Lord, thy slaughtered saints ! 

cried Milton in his immortal sonnet. Was not this a most sweet avenging? 



Xooftino Bacftwarb 

The warmth of greetings at the other extreme of the social scale is well typified 
in our reception by the master of Trinity College, Cambridge, which a lay member 
of the party thus describes : — 

This visit to the master's lodge was one of the pleasantest, because, first, it was so unusual 
a favor, granted seldom to Englishmen, still less to the average tourist. But the greatest charm 
was that Dr. Butler received us with such hearty, unaffected cordiality that we forgot we were 
strangers and pilgrims, and had for an hour or two the sensation of feeling ourselves distinguished 
guests. Along with his entertaining and instructive explanation of portraits and historical 
souvenirs, he made such frank and affectionate allusions lo his own home life and friends that we 
felt we had received a double honor in being let into the heart of both the lodge and its master. 

This serene and loving atmosphere, which is characteristic of English home life, 
and of which we had many inspiring glimpses during the summer, is one of the most 
charming pictures that many of us will have to hang on memory's wall. Speaking 
of the afternoon at Bemerton, a New England lady said : — 

To pass from that tender service in George Herbert's church into the quiet rectory, a nest 
of contentment, then through the drawing-room windows to the lovely garden with its outlook 
on trees, river, lawn, and fields, was the blissful hour of my pilgrimage. 

Two others particularly enjoyed the Sunday afternoon which a few of us spent 
with Mr. Henry Tolson and his wife on their fine estate, Park House, in the suburbs 
of Exeter. ^ 

Shall I ever forget, asked one, the picture of svveet domesticity which was unfolded to our 
view 33 we drove through the gates and saw that family group on the lawn? Our gracious host 
and hostess met us, not afar off, but on the very doorstep, and took us at once into the house- 
hold circle gathered on that stretch of velvety greensward. A high wall, over which a wealth of 
roses clambered, screened them from the street, and in this bovver of beauty and fragrance we 
sat and talked on themes suited to the day, while the children amused themselves quietly about 
us. There were nine of them, all under fourteen. What pretty names they had, and with what 
childish grace they told them to the American strangers I We wrote them down in memory's 
book — Ruth, Margery, Phillis, Jack, "Sunny," otherwise Joseph, Roger, Barbara, Ronald, and 
Hugh. A well-worn copy of Waugh's Sunday Afternoon Readings for Children, with which the 
mother had been entertaining the older children, lay upon the table. Tea with clotted cream, 
from vessels of rare old silver and china, was served out of doors, together with thin slices of 
buttered bread, buns, and simple cakes, which the children passed around with the help of only 
one maid, for in this Christian ho:iie as little service as possible is required of the servants on 
the Lord's Day. The afternoon sunlight flickered through the trees and lay in golden beams 
athwart the meadow stretching beyond the gardens. It was all so quiet and peaceful, so sincere 
and unpretentious, that I could not repress a desire that more of this sort of restful Sunday 
afternoons at home, with all the family together, might characterize our American life. For in 
genuine domestic enjoyment the English seem to me far ahead of ourselves. 

Somewhat of the -same impression was received at Lady Henry Somerset's, for 
one of the clerical members of the party said : — • 



Ube .15001? of tbe pilgrimage 

The elegant yet homelike rooms, and the little chapel in which service is daily conducted 
by herself will ever bring to my memory what is most beautiful in home surroundings, truest in 
home devotion, and highest in personal consecration. 

One of the youngest male pilgrims expressed a similar sentiment in this graceful 
tribute to her ladyship : — 

The great things in life are not all in outward experiences ; many of them are in inward 
impressions which prove vastly more inspiring. Our visit to Reigate was of this class. There is 
no need to eulogize upon the exceptional advantages of lineage, position, and wealth which place 
the things of this world within the grasp of Lady Henry. It is a great thing for a woman so 
situated to live above worldly things. It is a greater to dare the abuse, contumely, and mis- 
representation in which her choice of a life work will inevitably involve her. It is greatest to do 
these things with a sweet, strong courage. Those of us who spent a few happy hours in that 
beautiful, historic mansion will remember less of the house than of the gracious and magnetic 
personality of our hostess. We recognize in consecration, courage, and faith the great things of 
life. There is no inspiration so potent as that of a lofty character. 

The occasions which contributed directly to the quickening of our Christian 
faith were frequently mentioned, especially the hallowed service in that little cellar 
of Bradford's house at Austerfield. An Englishman who accompanied us to Holland 
was struck with the Christian Endeavor meeting held in the dining-room of the 
hotel in Leiden, led by one of the youngest of the American laymen, and said of it : 

It was a unicjue gathering of all ages from all parts of America and England, but all in- 
spired by the same spirit. Speeches from men and women, laymen and ministers, short and to 
the point, no waiting — a verse, a hymn, a sentence — truly we are one family, one people, one 
nation. My week's journeying with our cousins from over the sea has helped me to understand 
them better and has made me love them with all my heart. 

The same person voiced the general sentiment in saying : — 

My chief interest was not in the places we visited, but in the people who composed the 
party and their doings. There was a peculiar friendUness, a common bond of loving sympathy, 
wh'ch seemed to penneate every individual as though all interests were one. There was not a 
jarring note, for all were inspired by the thought, " By love serve one another." As an English 
stranger, I was charmed by the frank heartiness with which I was received and the evident desire 
to make me feel quite at home with every one. 

Another place which appealed deeply to the religious nature was Stonehenge, 
whither some of the party went from Salisbury, and is thus described by a ministe- 
rial pilgrim : — 

Standing amid those circles of great gray stones, some fallen, some toppling, a few erect, 
the silent witness of a bygone faith, the England of to-day — its cities, its navies, its colleges, 
its cathedrals — seemed to vanish. So likewise appeared and vanished the England of .Alfred, 
of the Roman and the Briton, bowing at the feet of Wodin and Thor. .-X dim, shadowy land 
appeared wherein man and his works were as nothing, and nature, wifd and savage, oppressed 
and terrified his spirit. But groping after a knowledge of the unseen Power which he felt lay 



ILoofting Bacftwarb 

behind the forces of nature, he set up his altar and raised these pillars of his rude and mighty 
temple. So, for a moment, I was with the silent throng who once worshiped there and felt with 
them the awful problems of life unenlightened by the Sun of Righteousness. 

The influence of the scenes at Bedford and Elstow are feelingly portrayed by 
another clerical brother in these words : — 

Somehow while there, looking upon the village green, or listening to the words of Dr. 
Brown, or going into the quaint little cottage, or standing before the beautiful statue, or all com- 
bined, I was lifted into a kind of ecstasy. I saw John Bunyan as I had never seen him before 
and felt the strange spell of enchantment which will, 1 trust, abide until the day of death, mak- 
ing me always and everywhere devoted to the humble and yet immortal work to which every 
minister of Christ is called. 

English views of our Dutch trip are reflected in these clever comments by that 
prince of traveling companions, Dr. Mackennal : — 

One of my earliest and most abiding impressions has been wonder that buildings, public 
and private, whose age is indubitable, should have so little of the aspect and charm of antiquity. 
The reason lies in the incorrigible cleanliness of the Dutch people. The dust of centuries can- 
not gather where the mop is being constantly used. Mystery dwells with cobwebs and the 
fretting mouse. The buildings too are kept in so ostentatiously good repair. Sentinu-nt lingers 
where men take pleasure in the old stones of Zion and favor the dust thereof. 

His emotions on visiting the scenes connected with Pilgrim and Puritan history 
are graphically set forth in this testimony : — 

In Brownists' Alley, an unsavory lane opening on a dirty little court, we were shown a 
house which quile possibly was the meeting place of the church which came from London in 
1593, and the home of many of its members. It is a tenement house, with closely packed, ill- 
favored rooms, now occupied by ill-fed, hard-featured, uncleanly men and women. I was 
strongly impressed that so my spiritual ancestors, many of them, must have looked while they 
were in Amsterdam. They came here from Naardam, a tidy, self-contained, self-sufficient little 
town, whose people were kind to the strangers but had no need of them. I felt the humilia- 
tion, as well as the suffering, which drove the broken-hearted church back to England again. 
Under the next reign what did Independency become? 

Professional interests naturally colored certain experiences. For instance, our 
"beloved physician" greatly prized the opportunity of visiting the hospitals in 
Plymouth, Lincoln, and London, while a minister recorded a^ among his most agree- 
able recollections his preaching for the first time in an English Congregational 
church, and his enjoyment of the charming and delicate hospitality of the elegant 
home in which he was entertained. 

Although, as has been said, our chief enjoyment came from meeting people, yet 
impressions from scenery and other impersonal sources were by no means lacking. 
One lady expressed herself as 

fortunate in having had my first glimpse of England by way of Plymouth, where I saw not only 
historic England, but a beautiful England under the early morning sun and vivid coloring of sea 



"Jibe Bool? of tbe BMlGrimage 



and sky, and the picture was far beyond my expectation. Another, a gentleman, said ; The 
drive out from Plymouth upon the Devonshire moors, by the gracious invitation of Mayor Bond, 
on a perfect June day, with the charm of English landscape, seen after a week on shipboard, 
made up an afternoon not soon to fade from memory. 

Others noted the skylark, Shelley's own, " that singing still dost soar and soar- 
ing ever singest," the shimmer of poppies among the growing grain, the ivy-colored, 
picturesque ruins, and the sunset shadows cast by century-old trees on the ancient 
moat at Wells. The phenomenally fine weather, with only two partially rainy days 
in six weeks, and the profusion of flowers everywhere in evidence, were also spoken 
of. The flowers were never lavishly, but as it were lovingly, displayed, and their re- 
fining presence gladdened every meal, whether served in lowly inn or lordly hall. At 
every hotel, even in wayside places like Bawtry where we tarried for only a forenoon 

luncheon, mine host never failed to add this 
jesthetic touch to his table. In some places, 
notably at Farnham Castle, where Mrs. 
Davidson, wife of the bishop, herself ar- 
ranged the flowers, and at the Priory, Rei- 
gate, the floral decorations were delicately 
artistic, the scheme of color being in perfect 
harmony with all the surroundings. Whether 
it were a single rose in a slender crystal vase 
or a mass of blossoms in a jar of costly 
faience the taste in each case was exquisite. 

One pilgrim, not afraid to express his 
gratification at creature-comforts, emphasizes 

the joy he experienced in making the intimate 
acquaintance of the English strawberry, most glo- 
rious of all fruits of the earth. We found it at 
Plymouth when we landed and said good-by to it 
at Norwich, where it ministered to our pleasure in 
worthy company of the thick yellow cream from 
Mr. Colman's dairy. Three weeks of English 
strawberries, selected for us by hospitable English hosts from choicest English gardens and 
heaped upon our plates with characteristic English liberality ! No wonder that at least one 
pilgrim for the moment forgot his enthusiasm for Old- World Shrines in his satisfaction with Old- 
World Strawberries. 

At first we were puzzled to understand how the people everywhere seemed to 
know of our advent, for Britain's "tight little island" is invaded by thousands of 
Americans every summer without attracting the least attention. When we bought 
the newspapers, however, the mystery was explained. We found that the local press 
was devoting from one column to an entire page to our movements and the history 
around which they centered, and as these were usually chronicled a da}- or two before 




:,-. m- SEE ^« ■ 1 

TODAYS 

I ECHO 




SVEftT ' -BSrENINS^;; : _^s M 



Xoohing Bacftwarb 

our arrival, no wonder that the hearts of the people were in expectation. These 
accounts were often quite scholarly, and the work, as a whole, far superior to what 
would be found in the ordinary provincial journal here at home when reporting such 
an event. The printed poster and the bulletin were frequently pressed into the 
service of The Pilgrimage, as the facsimile of Tlie Lincolnshire Echo s bulletin on 
the opposite page witnesses. The Lincolnshire papers, particularly the Yorkshire 
Daily Post, a Conservative organ and therefore less likely to be in sympathy with 
representatives of democracy, showed a most cordial spirit. Several of the illustrated 
papers, as the Sketch and the Queen, gave large space to scenes of Pilgrim interest. 
The leading London papers, too, like the Times, Chronicle, and Pall Mall Gazette, 
gave generous recognition, often editorially, of The Pilgrimage. Even Punch waxed 
eloquent over us in this kindly quatrain : — 

Good luck to the new Pilgrim's Progress ! 
Hate is a monster, strife an ogress. 
The Mayflower 's gone, but with good will, 
Our mutual love may flower still. 
The only discordant note from the press came from the Church Times, the oracle of 
a section of the High Church party, but the venom of its ill-natured utterances was 
turned into sweetness by the living words of brotherly love from the lips of some of 
the highest ecclesiastics within the Establishment. 

In closing it may be pertinent to ask what advantages accrue from a journey of 
this character.' Wherein does it differ from the ordinary trip to Europe undertaken 
by multitudes of our countrymen every season.' Most of all in the enrichment it 
must inevitably bring to one's Christian life and in the deepening of denominational 
loyalty. He must be a lukewarm Congregationalist indeed, who, after visiting these 
sacred shrines, remains indifferent to a denomination which has such . a peerless his- 
tory. Patriotism, too, is kindled by a fresh study of the Puritan movement, out of 
which, to a large extent, emerged our own glorious nation. Other advantages are 
summed up by a Boston merchant, who had made tours in Europe and Asia, but who 
acknowledged this to be the superlative pleasure of his life in respect to travel. 

In a measure (he says) the blessed benefits we have experienced will be distributed to those 
who remained at home, for these weeks will serve to give to life a new charm, to home new 
attractions, and to society new themes of conversation, as well as new sources of instruction 
and profit. More than all else will come the enlargement of our own natures from contact with 
our fellow-men in other lands, especially the land which only seven generations ago our ancestors 
left for New England's shore. We learn better to know that we are all akin, and that the human 
family is God's household in which we are only a part, with no more or better claims upon his 
universal goodness than the rest. 

Whatever shadows may lie athwart the future pathway of the New-World Pil- 
grims to Old- World Shrines, the yesterdays of the summer of 1896 will ever "look 
backwards with a smile." For the space of a few brief weeks we realized, in the 
words of "rare Ben Jonson," that "in short measures life may perfect be." 



Ubc Booh of tbe pilgrimage 

A, Word about the Closing Days. 

The chronicles of J'/w Congrcgationalist' s Pilgrimage, written by Miss Frances 
J. Dyer of our editorial staff, with a rare sensitiveness to impressions of historical 
associations, architectural grandeur and beauty, social life and natural scenery, have 
been mainly confined to England, since there the pilgrims received attentions which 
make that part of their journey most memorable. The letter, giving an account of 
the stay in Holland, well illustrates our experiences on the Continent. The week in 
Amsterdam, with excursions through the country districts on the canals, the Sunday 
in Cologne with the cathedral service and the Christian Endeavor meeting at our 
hotel, the day on the Rhine, the visit to picturesque old -Heidelberg, the journey 
through the Black Forest, and the festal splendors of Baden Baden linger in our 
memories as a succession of wonderful dreams. 

At last we found ourselves at the excellent hotel on the Rigi Kulm, with snowy 
Alps piled one above the other in majestic masses resting against the evening sky, 
while around the Lakes of Lucerne and Zug, far beneath our feet, electric lights 
shone like reflections of the stars. After dinner we gathered in the Red Room to 
spend our last evening as a party together. There a number of pleasant things hap- 
pened of themselves. Dr. William E. Park proposed thanks, which were voted unan- 
imously, to Messrs. Henry Gaze & Sons, for the admirable provision made for our 
comfort as travelers through the whole of our journey. Through their excellent 
business arrangements special trains and carriages on railways, comfortable suites of 
rooms at hotels, with meals at hours most suited to our convenience, had been placed 
at our disposal. They had not only made good their promises, but had exceeded 
them in thoughtful foresight, making it easy for us to do what we came to do with 
the least possible fatigue and expenditure of time. Next, a hearty tribute was paid 
to our conductor, Mr. F. E. Murrell, the agent of Messrs. H. Gaze & Sons. Beyond 
question he had won the friendship of every member of the party, not only by his 
quiet and assiduous attention to their wants, but by his experience of travel, the 
culture and the courtesy which made him always a welcome companion. Mr. Murrell 
is an ideal conductor for a pilgrimage in Europe. Nor was the enthusiasm in the 
least lessened when a pretty gift was presented to the fair young Greek wife, to whom 
English, French, and German languages were as familiar as her own, and who accom- 
panied him on this journey that they might spend their honeymoon together. 

At this point it seemed as though the meeting ought to be brought to a close, 
but Rev. W. W. Leete claimed the privilege of expressing his gratitude to The Con- 
gregationalist for arranging so valuable and delightful a pilgrimage ; and this he did 
so felicitously that every one else was moved to emulate him. The person who had 
presided up to that time found himself in the background, and this paper would turn 
rosy red if the kind words of appreciation there uttered were to be printed here. 
At a late hour Dr. Robie led us in a tender prayer of thanksgiving for the care of 
our heavenly Father which had so lovingly manifested itself in all our journey, and 

146 



a Wort* about tbe Closing Wn^s 



after making arrangements for a reunion next year tlie company gradually vanished 
with strains of gay music ringing in their ears. Next morning we were let down the 
steep mountain-side to the tender mercies of the blue Lake of the Four Cantons, on 
whose bosom we were borne to Lucerne. A few hours later some of us were speed- 
ing toward Paris, others to the musical festival at Bayreuth, others to Italy, North 
Germany, and Scandinavia, while half of our number still clung together, and, with 
Mr. Murrell, turned toward the Alps and buried themselves in the heart of the snowy 
hills. Some are still wandering beyond the sea. But the New-World Pilgrims to 
Old-World Shrines remain one company in spirit, and will revive their experiences 
together in coming days. 



Boston, September i. 



J^^^:^S7^^^^ 



Before Leaving England Dv. Dunning sent the 
widely l:)Oth in London and provincial papers ; — 

Duar Sirs, — 7Vie Congregationalist's American pil- 
grims on leaving England desire to acknowledge 
through the press their sincere gratitude for the con- 
tinued courtesies they have received from the time of 
their landing at Plymouth, on the eleventh of June, to 
the day of their departure, on the second of July. The 
Congregational churches, tlie committee and cooperat- 
ing friends, have wisely planned and publicly extended 
to them warm welcome at every place they have visited. 
Free Church councils have through their committees 
offered formal and carefully prepared, but not less cor- 
dial, greetings. Receptions have been given to the pil- 
grims by mayors and leading citizens in several towns anci 
cities. Bishops, deans, canons, and other clergy have 
afforded them every facility for inspecting the cathedrals 
and churches they have visited, and have besides ex- 
tended to ihem hospitalities which have been greatly 
enjoyed. Masters and professors in the Universities of 
Oxford and Caml:>ridge have freely given their services 
to make the visits of the pilgrims to these ancient seats 
of learning most profitable and enjoyable. The English 
newspapers, editorially and in news columns, have given 
generous space to our pilgrimage, and have treated its 



allowing letter to the English press. It was published 

purpose with great intelligence and discrimination. 
They have honored the Pilgrim Fathers who settled in 
New England and have duly recognized the principles 
of religious liberty for which they stood and which have 
been incorporated into the United States of America. 
The British public, so far as it has recognized our pres- 
ence (and it has done so wherever we paused on our 
journey), has shown a cordial interest in us as Ameri- 
cans and a warm esteem and friendship for our nation. 
We take this opportunity of expressing our gratitude 
to the many whom we could not personally address, for 
the kind attentions which have deepened our love for 
our mother country and our esteem for its people. Our 
sense of kinship for them has been strengthened and 
our wishes made more earnest for the prosperity of 
Great Britain in all that is worthy of her history and 
her greatness. We leave these shores reluctantly, and 
bear with us memories long to be cherished of the 
homes of the Pilgrim Fathers and of the homes of 
many esteemed friends in England. 

A. E. DUNNING, 
Editor of The Congregationalist. 
Norwich, July 2, 1S96. 



pilgrimage pcrepcctives 




Kfl'^^^':^' 



I. 

O the charge of the twoscore and six Congregationalists is 
completed ! Then they came back, but not — not the forty-six. 
We went out en masse. We returned by installments. In 
early June the Pilgrim persuasion in. this land of " stars and 
stripes" delegated us to traverse the main, and Gaze upon the 
land of our ancestry, ecclesiastical and lineal. 

" We came unto the land whither thou sentest us." There 
is no minority report. The land is fair and fat. If wood is 
wanting, brick is abundant. There are cities both walled and 
diked. "The people be strong that dwell in the land," and if 
they have Anaks in ability, so have we, just as big and as 
brave. The land is goodly, flowing with tea and tarts. The 
fruits of centuries of Christian civilization we found in abun- 
dance, and each has brought back a heavy cluster to share with friends. 

We cannot say with Caleb, "Let us go up at once and possess the land," for, 
forsooth, we are already possessed by it. We plead guilty to an unconditional un- 
Miles Standish surrender. England and America are one and inseparable in the 
divine destiny ; their language is common ; they think the same high thoughts and 
cherish the same noble aspirations. Christianity controls both continents. Cables 
connect under the vast deep ; and on its bosom the swift ships, like shuttles, are 
weaving the web of commerce which both nations are to wear. Both should have 
the same morals, the same manners, and the same money. England in her heart 
has no hate for her offspring ; and America cannot discard her heredity, for she 
cannot "run away from her backbone." 

English Congregationalists of course most heartily received us into their haunts 
and homes, their churches and pulpits. Reluctantly, but royally, the parting guests 
were speeded. But how about the enemy ecclesiastical, the persecutors of our 
Pilgrim parents ? History did not repeat itself. The Anglican Church has re- 
pented, and it is not yet the eleventh hour. True, the "old leaven" may not be 
wholly "purged out," but even our patron saint, Calvin, had to admit that the Chris- 
tian, though supplied with "special grace" and with a will " wholly inclined toward 
holiness," still possessed " remnants of indwelling sin." Certainly the Episco- 
palians treated us after the apostolic injunction, for when we were hungry they fed 
us, and when we thirsted they gave us drink, and glowing embers, which accrued 
upon our heads, were fanned into an undying flame of admiration and affection by 
unsparing effort and kindly attention. 



pilgrimage perspectives 

We have nearly lost sight of our text. Perspectives depend upon position. 
Vistas vary according to the viewer. Accounts through the secular press have given 
hints of pilgrimage happenings. The interesting and instructive w^eekly letters of 
" F. J. D." leave little to be added as regards places and persons, experiences and 
lessons. The composite impression has been developed. The delicacy of touch 
and beauty of shading will be missed in these pilgrimage perspectives, for here the 
point of view is masculine and ministerial, but the contrast may be suggestive. If 
these observations seem a trifle tardy, remember that Bancroft asserted that history 
can only be fairly and fully written until fifty yeai"s after it happened. 

Every hour since our return the vision of the visit has grown more glorious. 
The rose tinge in the memory has changed from " mermet " to "jacqueminot." The 
only criticism we can construct is the total lack of discomfort, disagreeableness, and 
disappointment sufficient to serve as contrasts. 

The chief charm was the company. We were a goodly people, even if we are 
conscious of it. Christian came before Congregational. We realized our responsi- 
bilities as representatives. " Blood will tell," and we tried " to do credit to our 
bringing up." True to the traditions of our polity, the party was not solely male or 
female, young or old, clerical or lay. The majesty of membership in a Congrega- 
tional church was maintained. Equality of personal privilege was preserved. Suf- 
frage was not limited to size or sex. Individualism was cherished, while fellowship 
was emphasized. The merchant and minister met in "elbow touch." The physician 
and pedagogue secured a symmetry of body and mind. All the ladies were " elect," 
whether married or maiden. How unsatisfactory and un-Congregational if the party 
had been all men or all ministers. Could we have spared the two members with the 
sweet, unconscious graces of girlhood, the enthusiasm of youth, and the charm of 
perfect manners .■■ Verily not. 

We were a company of plain persons, without gaudy apparel, glitter of gold and 
flash of gems, but whenever we faced bishops, met a mayor, confronted a canon, or 
strayed into the haunts of royalty, we turned with commendable pride to the two 
fine types of young Christian American girlhood and said within ourselves, " There 
are our jewels." What a " goodly fellowship of the saints " has been realized! A 
week on a steamer is worth a year's residence in the same neighborhood, and a 
month of travel more than a lifetime receiving and returning calls. Which one of 
us can ever sing in sincerity the hymn, " I 'm a pilgrim and I 'm a stranger " ? The 
latter role is obsolete. Even England ruled out this hymn, for as soon as our feet 
touched the shores of Devon we were all " changed in the twinkling of an eye " from 
strangers to brethren beloved. 

There is a freemasonry of Christian hearts which forestalls features and names, 
defies distance and transcends nationality. Still the palm comes not without toil, 
and if you are a pilgrim you must bear the penalty. You must preach, and you 
must eat. You must act and appear so as not to disappoint those who place you on 
the lofty pedestal of imagination. The "prophet is not without honor " proverb is 



Ube Bool? of tbe pllgrimaQe 

still in force. Once we were noted, and found a people who appreciated us. We 
rose to the occasion. Our spokesman, equipped by travel, the pulpit and editor's 
chair, " did us proud," and, like the immortal poet of the nation we visited, did not 
repeat himself. The one who carried the name, and the blood, and the office of the 
famous Leiden pastor inherited no sinecure. Perhaps he may be pardoned if in the 
heat and burden of the day he lapsed into pious profanity, and exclaimed, " Shade of 
my ancestor ! " 

Politically, the Pilgrimage Party was representative of the New World. Not all 
of the talk was of theology or travel. Protection had its advocates. Independents 
of necessity were there. Silver had its supporter — not a ranting, long-whiskered, 
tangle-haired type, but an intelligent, informed, quiet, lovable', conscientious Chris- 
tian Congregationalist, and the pilgrims " were not able to ignore the wisdom and 
the spirit by which he spake," but he did not suffer stoning. Prohibitionists paid a 
visit to the Lady Somerset shrine. 

"What shall I more say .' for time would fail me." The plates in the pilgrim 
kodak are used. The pictures are in the solution of memory. There are no nega- 
tives, all is positive. The pictures will be printed indelibly on both mind and heart. 




IT. 

Responding to the editorial request for some note on Thk Congregationalist's 
Pilgrimage, I, as one "behind the scenes " of it, ought first to testify to the intense 
eagerness shown by all classes of English people to welcome the visitors, and the 
happy impression they individually made upon their hosts and hostesses and all who 
came into contact with them. Persons of all social stations and diverse official 
positions evidently regarded it a high honor to entertain or in any way contribute to 
the enjoyment of the visitors, and much disappointment was caused by the numerous 
invitations which had to be reluctantly declined. Probably the members of the 
partv did not fully realize how they thrilled any assembly in which they appeared. 
It was the thought of the history that lay behind them, of what they represented, 
that laid hold of the imagination of the English people and secured ready entrance 
into their hearts, homes, and places not easy of access. Only an Englishman, or 
one long resident in this conservative little country, can properly estimate the value 
of the privileges which the pilgrims enjoyed. Some English Congregationalists 
could not refrain from remarking that their American brethren had received 
courtesies never offered to them. One happy incidental effect of The Pilgrimage was 
to bring together in amicable association many members of the two great divisions 



pilgrtmage perspectives 

of the Church of Christ in Britain — Anghcans and Nonconformists ^ who had 
not before met, or to strengthen relations already existing. The pilgrims constituted 
a sort of hyphen or bridge which united, at least for the time being, some who had 
hitherto kept aloof from one another. The Pilgrimage also served to recall to both 
Anglicans and Nonconformists history apt to be more or less forgotten. " Church- 
men " were reminded of the great principles for which Independents stand, and 
Congregationalists were inspired with fresh zeal by having their glorious traditions 
brought so vividly before them. Interest in The Pilgrimage has by no means died 
oiit on this side. Applications from people anxious to read a consecutive narrative 
of the tour continue to be received, and allusions that still appear from time to time in 
the English press show that The Pilgrimage has made a deep and abiding impression 
upon the "fourth estate," which, of course, is the most thoughtful and important 
section of the community ( !). Whilst reputable Americans are always welcome 
visitors in this country, and whilst any members of the recent Pilgrimage who return 
to these shores will be received with added cordiality, it is generally felt that the 
Pilgrimage as a Pilgrimage cannot be repeated. The idea was an altogether happy 
inspiration ; it was carried out in a worthy manner and at a most opportune time ; 
but some things can only be done once, and 77^1? Congregationalist' s Pilgrimage of 
1896 will rank in history as unique an event as the sailing of the Mayflower. 

The probability that one of several happy results of The Pilgrimage will be the 
establishment of closer relations between American and British Congregationalists 
is regarded with great satisfaction by members of the denomination on this side. 
Dr. Dunning's suggestion that the National Council and the Congregational Union 
of England and Wales should discuss topics of mutual interest and exchange 
delegates will not be lost sight of at the Memorial Hall. It has several times been 
remarked that The Pilgrimage has strengthened friendly feeling between England 
and America, but no one can estimate how great and far-reaching has been its 
influence in this respect. The visitors came at a critical time, and there is not a 
shadow of doubt that their intercourse with influential English men and women, and 
the large space devoted by the newspapers to recalling the ancestry of the pilgrims, 
recording their movements, and reporting the peace-promoting speeches delivered 
along the route by representatives of both countries, did much at this juncture to 
shape public opinion in the right way on the eastern and possibly on the western side 
of the Atlantic. Should a quarrel between England and America ever again seem 
imminent, the memory of fraternal hand-shakes and sVveet intercourse, of eating 
together at one table, and of fellowship in worship will surely go a long way in 
averting such a catastrophe. 



14^ 




TLbc Boon of tbe iptlGtimage 



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LL transportation and hotel arrangements for T/ie Congregatioii- 
rt/w^'j Pilgrimage were intrusted to the tourist agents, Henry 
Gaze & Sons, Ltd. Their efficient management was an 
important factor in the success of the enterprise, and a word 
regarding this well-known firm will be of interest. 

The business was established in .Southampton by Henry 
Gaze in 1844, and later was transferred to London. Under 
Mr. Gaze's brilliant management it was rapidly enlarged until 
it covered all quarters of the globe and embraced every depart- 
ment of travel. Henry Gaze was a remarkable business man ; 
bold originality, great executive ability, strict integrity in 
dealings both with patrons and employees, combined with 
intellectual ability, insured success, and these qualities he 
impressed upon those who were associated with him, and to 
whom the business was eventually intrusted. 

Beginning with modest excursions from London to 
Paris, the firm extended its operations, until now it has its 
own system of travel tickets available by all leading rail- 
road, steamship, and diligence transportation lines through- 
out Europe, America, and the Orient, and covering about 
sixteen thousand miles within the empire of Lidia. It has 
also perfected a comprehensive hotel coupon system. 

H. Gaze & Sons, Ltd., has branches in the principal 
cities of the Old World, around the world, and in the 
United States, the head office for the latter and for Canada ""'"^ "' °''''' ^'''• 

being at 1 13 Broadway, New York. R. H. Crunden, ll.d., is the American manager. 
To him and to the New England agent, Mr. W. H. Eaves (201 Washington 
Street, Boston, Mass.), the pilgrims are indebted for unusual 
courtesies. The booking of the party was in their hands, 
and Dr. Crunden, in conjunction with the London office, 
arranged all preliminary details pertaining to Tlie Coiigre- 
gationalisf s plan of travel. 

In the fifty-two years of its existence the firm has 
handled hundreds of thousands of tourists, both in person- 
ally conducted parties, and also with independent travel 
tickets, according the fullest facilities at reasonable rates. 

The present corporation is managed by five directors : 
Mr. Alfred H. Gaze, managing director; Mr. Harry E. Gaze, 

R. H. Crunden. LL.D. . ' C b > J < 

his brother, who has charge of the shipping department in 
Europe; Mr. W. Edwin Gaze, the president of the Thewfikich-Nile Steamship 
Company, and manager of the Paris and Oriental branches ; Colonel E. Bance, 
and Dr. R. H. Crunden, who is general manager for the United States and Canada. 





^be St. ©enis Ibotel 




EW YORK seems especially dear to the pilgrims as it does to 
every American traveler who has watched its high buildings 
fade away in the distance when the ship puts out to sea, or has 
eagerly scanned the horizon for the first glimpse of them on 
the return. Of the many pleasant scenes perhaps no one will 
be more pleasantly remembered by those of the party who 
were quartered at the St. Denis Hotel, than the graceful spire 
and beautiful grounds of Grace Church which add so much to 
the attractive environs of this comfortable hostelry. 

It has been the cause of no little comment that the St. 
Denis has remained in its present locality at the corner of 
Eleventh Street and Broadway, while so many of its contem- 
poraries have moved farther up town, and at the same time 
should have increased its large patronage. The reason for this 
is, no doubt, its admirable management at the hands of the proprietor, Mr. William 
Taylor. While most of the other hotels have changed owners, Mr. Taylor has 
remained in charge of the St. Denis, and given to its administration his personal 
attention. The excellence of its cuisine, the always attractive and homelike appear- 
ance of the house, and its air of quiet refinement, are witnesses to the value of 
his careful and constant supervision. The St. Denis is a favorite resort for pro- 
fessional and literary people, the large publishing houses being within easy walking 
distance, and the appointments and surroundings of the hotel itself peculiarly 
congenial to them. 

The St. Denis occupies an ideal location, being in the heart of the shopping 
district and of easy access to all points of interest and amusement, as well as to the 
piers of the transatlantic steamship lines. It is situated midway between the upper 
and lower, or social and commercial sections of the city. This hotel was chosen 
by the proprietors of The Congregatioiialist as the headquarters for the parties of 
both" The Pilgrimage and The Oriental Tour, a re- 
ception to the latter company being given in its 
spacious parlors the day previous to sailing. 

Taylor's Restaurant, which is connected with 
the hotel, has acquired a national reputation, the 
table and service being unsurpassed. In order to 
meet their increasing patronage and also accom- 
modate private, college, and society dinners, an 
extension has been made on the Broadway side 
which includes a new cafe and banquet halls. 
These are all connected with the main part of the 
hotel, and together with it are equipped with all 
the modern conveniences. 




Zbc Ibamlnu'o^Hnicrican Xine 




HE pleasant voyage across the Atlantic on the fleet steamship 
Columbia, of the Hamburg-American Line, was by no means 
the least enjoyable part of T/ie Congregationalist' s Pilgrimage. 
The magnificence in the appointment of the ship, both as to 
its accommodation and service, made the six days on the ocean 
full of rest and comfort. 

The fleet of four steamers, consisting of the Columbia, 
Augusta-Victoria, Furst Bismarck, and Normannia, which is 
used in the weekly express service of this company between New 
York and England, France and Germany, is unexcelled in point 
of convenience, safety, comfort, and speed. The first two 
named are sister ships, as are also the last two, and all are models 
of marine architecture and the equals of any vessels afloat. 
In conjunction with the North German Lloyd Steamship Company, the Hamburg- 
American Line conducts a German-Mediterranean Service. Magnificent steamers 
make regular trips to Algiers, Naples, and Genoa by way of the Straits of Gib- 
raltar. This route is exceptionally attractive to travelers bound for Europe who 
wish to avoid the rigors of the North Atlantic in winter ; also for those Orient 
bound, this being the most direct line. The Congregationalisf s Oriental Tour of 
1894 took passage on the Normannia, which was at that time running in this Mediter- 
ranean Service. During the months of January and February the Hamburg-Ameri- 
can Line despatches one or two express steamers from New York to Alexandria, 
touching at the Azores, Gibraltar, Algiers, and Genoa, thus accommodating the 
large and constantly increasing winter travel to Egypt and Palestine, and offering 
unusual facilities for reaching these countries by the shortest route. 

The Twin Screw Mail Service, consisting of steamships Persia, Prussia, Patria, 
Phoenicia, Palatia, and Pennsylvania, runs to Hamburg direct. These ships are about 
the same size as the other express steamers, and are equally well equipped for the pro- 
motion of safety and comfort. The Pennsylvania is even larger, being the largest 
carrier afloat. The steadiness, even in the heaviest sea, of the ships used in this 
service has been highly praised by passengers who have crossed on them. 

For several years the Hamburg-American Line has organized during the winter 
season excursions to the Mediterranean and Orient, placing at the disposal of 
travelers one of its floating palaces. These cruises have become so popular that they 
have now inaugurated a summer tour to and along the coast of Norway, the first of 
which was made by the Columbia this year. These cruises afford all the comforts 
and luxuries of life. 

The aim of this transatlantic line has always been to give the best service pos- 
sible. How near they have reached the acme of comfort, speed, and safety is well 
attested by their magnificent fleet and the popularity of their ocean service at all 
seasons of the year. 








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